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Description

Refer to Mentz/Tempest 'Grampians' Select Climbs 2nd ed for topos.

There are lots of lower-grade trad climbs in an accessible location. There is also a large amount of bouldering that has been developed. A few problems are sit starts into the routes.

The highest point of the cliff is visible from the road and is the location of "The Lion in Winter" and is a useful landmark. People in the past have imagined this feature to resemble a "lion's head" profile giving rise to the "Mountain Lion".

© (pharmamatt)

Access issues

The Mountain Lion road sign is currently a burnt pole, so when approaching from the Henty Hwy side of the valley keep your eyes open for a small sandy car park on the right hand side of the road just after the Victoria Range Fire Trail gate (on left).

© (pharmamatt)

Approach

From the Henty 'Highway' (A200), follow the Glenelg River Road towards 'The Chimney Pots'. About 2km after crossing 'Harrop Track' there is a small car park (about 3 cars) on the right with a wonky sign indicating "Mountain Lion" (This sign has been burnt since the fires and is just a burnt pole. Look for a small sandy carpark.) Cross the road and follow the track to the cliff. After about 5mins walking the cliff line becomes apparent and the tack divides with one pad going right, uphill, towards the summit and the other going left to the climbs. Follow the pad off left along the cliff base. Walking along the base takes 5-10 minutes to a large cave where a hole on the right gives access to the Vanya Wall, the left-most part of the cliff.

Climbs are described from right-to-left.

© (pharmamatt)

Ethic

This area has been quite badly burnt from the 2013 fires. Please keep to the foot pads as much as possible to stop further erosion.

© (pharmamatt)

History

Bouldering development: 2014 by Dunkeld local and Geelong weekenders.

© (pharmamatt)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Lionhearted Trad 20m

The seam, dodging around to find protection.

Start: Two metres right of the juggy lines is a thin, closed seam going up diagonally right.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991

2

This climb appears to take the juggy flake system just left of "Lionhearted". Just to confuse things, here's the original location description, but don't take it too seriously : "The buttress to the left of a large tree growing flat across the track, just up the hill from 'Lionhearted'.".

FA: Scott Johnson, Helen Travers, 1994

3
22 Leo The Line Trad 25m

This is probably more worthwhile as a boulder problem than a climb. Take a couple of mats, boulder to the jugs then jump off. You might even be able to sit-start it.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust, James McIntosh, 1992

4
14 Pussy Galore Trad 17m

Climb into "Leo"'s corner then step right at break to arete. Climb this as for "Leo The Line".

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1997

5
12 Leo Trad 20m

The small orange corner.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

6
9 Kitty Litter Trad 20m

Up, step right to the block. Up the left side of the chimney to the chockstone. Step onto the right wall and up.

Start: Start at right-hand crack at the base of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

FA: Scitt Johnson, Helen Travers, 1994

7

Follow the flake to its top, then up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, just right of the left arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991

8

Mossy chimney then squeeze through the roof and scamble up.

Start: Start 8 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again".

FA: Simon Todman, David Cunningham, Paul Roadley, 1993

9
18 M0 Lion Tamer Aid 12m

Crack and short wall with rests on runners.

Start: Start 2 metres left of " Not Christians For Dinner Again".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Reggle, 1992

10

Up, step left at ledge and up right face of the arete.

Start: Start at crack 2 metres left of "Lion Tamer"

FA: Michael Renggli, Campbell Mercer, 1992

11
15 Tiger Tiger! Trad 25m

Up, step left at break and up centre of arete.

Start: Start at crack 5.5 metres left of

FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Renggli, Peter Seidel, 1992

12
7 The Lion's Den Trad 20m

Follow the main crack unti it gets too narrow then continue up right side of buttress.

Start: Start 7 metres left of "Not Christians For Dinner Again" at crack separating the deatched block from the main face.

FA: Darren Lynch, Andrew Lynch, 1992

13
V3 * Mr Blobby Left Boulder

Sit start and traverse into the crack and finish as same line as Mr Blobby Right

FA: Dick Lodge, 4th Jul

14
V3 * Mr Blobby Right Boulder

Sit start, traverse left into the the crack and up,traverse left to big ledge.

FA: Dick Lodge, 4th Jul

15
VB Choss Boss Boulder

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 2014

16

Not memorable at all. Sit start on slopey rail and reach to the top.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 2014

17
Project? Boulder Project

Start on edges and make massive (insane) moves and up to finish jugs. V13 plus?

18
V4 ** Anteloped Boulder

Start on low flat jug, move through crimps and large side pull to jugs and drop off.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 2014

19
7 Zsa-Zsa's Crack Trad 30m

Pleasant bridging up the wide chimney at the left end of the overhanging wall.

FA: Simon Todman, Peter Watling, 1991

20

3 metres up hill from Anteloped (past chimney) sit start with right hand on dish on face, and left in low finger lock. Make powerful moves into crack and finish on juggy slot.

FA: Jimmy

21

Start as for Finger Lockin' Good but keep traversing left and make tricky moves and finish as for Toe Above All.

FA: Aden

22
V5 * Toe Above All Boulder

Start on big right hand side pull and small left crimp 1metre left of Finger Lockin' Good walk the feet before moving up and left to finish on juggy block

FA: Aden

23

Left of twin cracks 1 metre right of small mossy crack.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack".

FA: Scott Johnson, 2000

24
17 Sabre Tooth Trad 30m

Up crack until it peters out., step right with difficulty, then up more easily in the juggy line above.

Start: On the left arete of "Zsa-Zsa's Crack" is a crack that peters out.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

25
V6 Off the Shelf Boulder

Start on rail and move left to slopers, finishing on a jug pinch in juggy crack.

FA: Aden

26

Same start as 'Off the Shelf' but straight up, same finish.

FA: Aden

27
V3 * Sweet FA Boulder

Start matched on big bulb undercling, work your way to the end of the arete then mantle.

FA: Josh A, 13th Sep

28

Start on the blocky jug under boulder, grab crimp and make a big move right and mantle to finish.

FA: Aden, 13th Sep

29
V2 * Dirt Merchant Boulder

Start on a sidepull and gaston, climb straight up.

FA: Aden, 13th Sep

30

Start as for 'Dirt Merchant' but heading out right instead to mantle up the face.

FA: Aden, 13th Sep

31
V5 Giraffe Boulder

Start on two opposing jugs, make large move up to some crimps, then right to top out up seam.

FA: Aden, 30th Aug

32
V7 Shoulder Lands Boulder

Start with left hand on jug and right on flat gaston, engage those shoulders to then climb straight up on small holds.

FA: Aden, 30th Aug

33
V1 * Tooth Stepping Boulder

Start on big blocky jug, move up and right to finish as for 'Tiger Tooth'

FA: Aden, 23rd Aug

34
V4 * Tiger Tooth Boulder

Sit start left L hand crimp and R on side pull. Up through diagonal on opposing holds into large jug. Drop off.

FA: Troy M

35
** Project Boulder Project

Start matched on small crimp rail. 'Tiger Tooth' finish jug

36
V1 Jailbreak Boulder

Sit start mactched on large undercling. Stand up and climb up into horizontal break.

FA: Jimmy

37
V5 * Hand of Fate Boulder

Start with a left hand palm down and a right crimp, get straight up to those under clings and finish at the break higher up

FA: Aden, 31st Aug

38

Sit Start on blocky side pull, work your way up and left to finish on the break with the others

FA: Aden, 23rd Aug

39
V6 Under Pressure Boulder

This problem is contrived Start as for 'Climbing the Knuckles' but moving across left into the under clings, working your way into the start of 'Jailbreak' and to finish up that problem.

FA: Aden, 23rd Aug

40
17 Lion Premiums Trad 15m

Steeper than you expect.

Start: The middle of the orange wall on the detached block.

FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr, 1990

41
14 Bunny Plate Trad 15m

The line direct to the top.

Start: This is described as starting 30 metres right of "Wildcat". It appears to be a steep line bounding the left side of an orange section.

FA: Mark Connor, Stuart Willis, 1992

42
8 Feline Faculties Trad 20m

The right arete of the left-hand chimney.

Start: Start at the base of the left-hand chimney.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

43
9 The Paw Trad 30m

Thrutch up the left-hand chimney then up the orange wall. Pull up over rooflet then more easily.

Start: Start at chimney 3 metres left of "The Eye Of The Tiger".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

44

Up, starting just left of the arete.

Start: Start at the arete immediately right of the right-hand chimney.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

45
V5 * Green Mushi Boulder

Start matched high in slopey seam, climb left into the crack and finish on the horn jug.

FA: Martin Buchauer, 30th Aug

46

Not to be confused with the route of the same name at Muline.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Pride Rock Boulder
16
20
7
Lion's Den Boulder
2
3
1
Stu's Bloc Boulder
3
3
2

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
53
5 Ray Ban Trad 15m

Up line, step right to dodge gumtree (probably not any longer), then up.

Start: Start at juggy line 3 metres left of "Pangur Ban" on north-facing wall. This used to be 2 metres right of a large gumtree, but that has now fallen over and lies across the base of the climb.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

54
17 Wildcat Trad 20m

The crack, taking the right-hand branch near the top with some doubtful holds.

Start: On the same block as 'Pangur Ban', 3 metres right of the arete.

FA: Peter Watling, Simon Todman, 1991

55
20 Felix Trad 25m
56
17 Soaked And Smoked Trad 55m

A little contrived.

  1. 45m (17) The right-hand line on the main face, leading up to the "lion's jaws". Near the top ignore the easiest line and climb more compact rock to the left. Belay below the jaws

  2. 10m (-) Juggy wall left of the "jaws".

FA: Peter Treby, S. McLelland, 1988

57
18 Jaws Trad 40m

FA: Simon Pateman, Michael Hampton

58
17 Sylvester Trad 35m

Superb, but all too short, orange wall. Originally done in two pitches.

Start: Start 13 metres left of "Soaked And Smoked" directly below an obvious break in the roof just left of the triangular orange wall and roof.

FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer, 1993

59
18 Pawed And Clawed Trad 35m

Good rock and reachy crux.

Start: Start 2 metres left of "Sylvester" just left of the small orange roof.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Michael Renggli, 1992

60
18 The Lion In Winter Trad 25m

Good line with problematic start. Grade opinions vary between 16 and 18.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

61

Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

FA: Jill Pearce, Jo Whitelaw, Michael Mulcairn, Peter Watling, 1993

62
10 Purr Trad 12m

A few metres right of "Watcha Gonna Call It" is a bottomless corner.

FA: Peter Watling, Michael Mulcairn, 1993

63

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Decapitating Tweety Birds".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

64

A bit sparse on gear in sections

Start: Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake.

FA: James McIntosh, Peter Watling, 1989

65

Direct start to "Decapitating Tweety Birds". Start 4 metres left of that climb.

FA: Neil Barr, Peter Treby, 1990

66
6 Whiskers Trad 20m

Another variant. Start as for "Decapitating Tweety Birds".

FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer, 1991

67

Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991

68
13 Kimba Trad 20m

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

FA: Rob Pease, Monica Gallus, 1991

69

Good. Much better protection than nice puss

FA: Neil Barr, Glen Donohue, Andrew Webb, 1988

70
5 R Nice Puss Trad 20m

Not very well protected

FA: Peter Treby, 1988

71
10 Flea Bait Trad 15m

The crack just left of "Here Kitty", starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush.

FA: Peter Watling, James McIntosh, 1989

72
6 Who Is Vanya? Trad 20m

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Seidel, 1991

73
17 R Here Kitty Trad 20m

Not well-protected.

FA: Peter Treby, Neil Barr, 1988

74
14 Meow Trad 15m

Thin line just left of "Flea Bait".

FA: Peter Treby, 1988

75
19 * Lion-Ardo Trad 20m

The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of "Meow"

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, 1991

76
16 Alley Cats Trad 20m

Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Masticating Mice" near the "arete".

FA: Campbell Mercer, Julie Nitschke, Mark Nitschke, 1992

77
17 * Masticating Mice Trad 20m

Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct.

FA: James McIntosh, Peter Watling, 1989

78
14 Pangur Ban Trad 15m

Up right of the overhang on the arete, move left below the small bulge and straight up on steep grey rock.

Start: Start at the left arete of the detached block.

FA: Mike Wust

79
7 Elsa Unknown 10m

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

FA: John Handley, Dale Wakefield, 1994

80
16 Kitten With A Whip Trad 20m

Go up vertical crack line for 2m resisting the temptation to veer left by keeping right and go straight up. At the slightly sloped break (About 1m below scooped out section) veer left to cross 'Wildcat' and take its left handbranch, topping out to the right of the bollard of "Lion Premiums".

Start: Start 3m to the right of 'Wildcat'

FA: Glen Buchanan, Louise Doig, Karen Sutherland, Andy Johnston, 2001

81
16 Dim Sims Trad 12m

Steep bridging and buckets up line 2 metres right of arete on south-facing wall.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1997

82
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