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Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Burning Black Boys Unknown 22m

Start as for 'Fox Tail' (which starts 5m right of a wide corner on the north-facing yellow buttress).

FA: Joe Goding, Sharyn George, 2002

2
16 * Fox Tail Trad 30m

Up the small corner through a bulge, step right and continue up the next line.

Start: Start 5 metres right of a wide corner.

FA: James and Melanie McIntosh, 1991

3

Up the overhanging chimney-corner 5 metres right of "Fox Tail" then head left at the roof, finishing as for "Fox Tail"

FA: Michael Woodrow, Marc Syndnor, 1997

4
21 M2 * Hell Bent Aid 18m

Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.

FA: Jacqui Middleton, David Ceber

5
15 Arctic Fox Trad 25m

Up short wall just right of arete. Step back left to arete and up easily.

Start: Start about 10 metres right of "Hell Bent" at a grey arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Mark Poustie, 2000

7
12 Foxy Sox Trad 10m

Up line to arete, follow the arete to the horizontal break, traverse left (continuing up arete from break is grade 14) then to top.

Start: Start at the diagonal 2 metres from the left arete of the little wall..

FA: Julie Nitschke, Campbell Mercer. Direct variant by same pair with lead swapped., 1991

8
20 Hot, Salty, Sticky, Yum Mixed 5m, 1

Roof on scooped boulder at left end of cliff

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

9
22 * Warwick's Wafflecone Mixed 15m, 4

Slab, then overhanging face.

Start: Start at slab opposite "Hot,Salty,Sticky,Yum"

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

10

???? Needs checking

Start: Start as for "Warwick's Wafflecone"

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

11
16 Intoxication Trad 45m

Not positively located

FA: Brian Fish, Craig Nottle, Mike Stone, 1983

12
24 Partners In Sleaze Trad 25m

Corner left of "The Radgel" past BR to falkes to "Norton Is For Nancy's

FA: Rick Jeukin, Ross Meffin, 1991

13
18 R The Radgel Trad 20m

Apparently radgel may be Cornish for fox. Later accidentally retro-bolted as Warm Salty Bottom Washer; fortunately both the bolts and name have been consigned to the dustbin.

FA: Robin Miller (solo), 1983

14
20 M0 Foxy Lady Trad 26m

Blast up arete left of "Reynard's Last Run". Apparently a different arete than that of "The Radgel".

FA: Darren Maskell, Steve Holloway, 1997

15
17 * Reynard's Last Run Trad 44m

Start: Start at the chimney just left of "Fox On The Run"

  1. 26m (-) Climb the chimney to the roof and then the corner-crack above the roof to a large ledge on the left.

  2. 18m (17) Up the beautiful yellow corner to the roof. Exit right and finish easily.

FA: Chris Baxter and Matt Taylor, Mike Stone, 1976

16
14 Sly Dog Trad 26m

Alternate first pitch to "Reynard's Last Run"

Start: Start at the corner just right (?left) of "Fox On The Run"

FA: Bruce Sommerfield, Steve Hains, 1990

17
14 Fox on the Run Trad 46m

The right-hand of twin lines left of "Fox Trot".

18
17 * Fox Trot Trad 44m

The crack on the arete left of "Foxfire" has a good start but then gets quite easy.

  1. 26m (17) Step into the crack from the right (direct into crack is grade 18) and up to a ledge.

  2. 18m (-) Finish up the line.

FA: Matt Taylor, Chris Baxter (alt) and Mike Stone. Direct Star : Steve Hains, 1990

20
21 * Foxfire Trad 48m

Originally required extensive cleaning and sieging.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt) and Peter Lindorff, 1977

21
21 Pretty Foxy First Half Mixed 17m, 1

Corner crack that ends at old rusty carrot.

22
26 ** Pretty Foxy Trad 50m

Stunning route up middle of wall. It has been queried if this climb is actually possible but this from Mike Law : "I got pulled /tensioned/short-roped off last moves when belayer collapsed with heatstroke, finished right instead I think. Crux is the steep wall above the crack - pretty Foxy 25+"

23
20 R ** Foxtel Trad 50m

Excellent, but serious

FA: Tim Day, Wade Stevens, 2006

24
22 R ** Finger Sighs Trad 50m

Despite the addition of a bolt on the initial arete this is still fairly bold.

  1. 27m (22) Climb the short, rounded arete 3 metres left of "Twentieth 'Century' Fox" past a bolt, stepping right into that climb at 9 metres. Continue up the flakes on TCF and traverse left to the second bolt on that climb. Now diagonally right to another bolt and go right and up to a ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 23m (19) Climb delicately left and up with poor protection.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

25

Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way.

Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos).

FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, David Gairns, 1978

26

Start: Start at the base of 'Leaner'

  1. 30m (24) Follow the traverse line left to the arete. Up the arete past a bolt (hard to clip) to ledge and bolts. The original poor bolts have been replaced.

  2. 20m (24) Move right into "Leaner" and go up 2 metres. Now go out right onto the overhung arete, passing a fixed wire, or not, as the case may be.

FA: Mike Law. Ian Ravenscrof, Chris Baxter and Robin Miller followed the first pitch only., 1983

27
24 Leaner Trad 45m

Wildly overhanging corner right of the silver screen. Rarely repeated. Might need a new bolt.

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, Greg Child. Summer, 2000

28
14 Blood Sport Trad 40m

People who climb chimneys probably shoot foxes too.

FA: Mike Stone, Francine Gilfedder and Chris Baxter, 1976

29
25 * Baron Von Marlon Sport 25m

Start: The arête 2m right of 'Blood Sport' requires creativity and determination.

FA: Nicholas Kiraly, Anthony Pattison, 2007

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