Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

It's given the name to keep you away, it's actually ok.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Above 'Slander Gully' and 'Curiosity Crag'.

Coming up from 'Slander Gully', the first thing you come to is a compact wall going back up the hill. The descent gully is at the upper end of this wall. The main prow is undercut by a large overhang which is also the bivvy cave. The first route starts just left of the cave.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Not sure whether this should be under 'Mt Pox' or 'Slander Gully'.

Start: Follow track to knobbly, steep wall 100 metres right and upstream from Gastronomique Wall.

From middle right of wall follow a series of cracks vaguely left to headwall.

FA: Christina Freestone & Greg Aimer, 1993

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

Great for the grade.

Head left up staircase to arete on wall right of chimney/chasm. Steep corner to small roof, then right to headwall.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1994

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

Thin, steep crack up blank wall with good gear. Start 2 metres left of Snow Cat Rock 'n' Roll.

  1. 20m 23 Left-leading pumpy crack with difficult reachy move at fixed wire to ledge.

  2. 30m, 18 Straight up middle of wall on good jugs but spaced gear.

FFA: 2003

FA: Neil Monteith & Geoff Butcher, 2003

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

  1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

  2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996

Reported as dangerously loose by the FA party.

Start: Start below a large roof which is a prominent feature of the crag (VRG)

  1. 35m (5) Up the line to a perched boulder. Back off a little and go up the right-hand crack to a large ledge on the right.

  2. 35m (5) Climb up to the roof. Back off a little and traverse right instead and finish up the wall right of the roof on awesome jugs.

FA: Neil Barr & Julie Flynn, 1985

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

  1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

  2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1996

Swing left over bulge to ledge as for "Pox Trot". Step right and up rounded arete to finish on ledge. Abseil from sling or do further 30 metres of easy climbing (?Scabs On Heat)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Face on one of the last walls at right-hand end of cliff, with tree on ledge at 15 metres.

  1. 35m (12) Up to ledge.

  2. 35m (12) Left-facing corner on upper wall.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1996

This climb is on the South facing wall of the buttress above Mt Pox (also directly uphill from Curiosity). In the middle of the wall is a wide crack, this climb takes the clean line up wall to the R. Up just L of R facing corner and past overlap to the top.

Was the first attempt at Jive Ass. A flailing leader could not handle the pump and so bailed into the disgusting off width full of moss. Climb Jive Ass to horizontal, traverse L to offwidth and grovel up. Alternatively just look, laugh and go enjoy Jive Ass.

FA: Pete Bovino, 2016

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mt Pox.