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Description

It's given the name to keep you away, it's actually ok.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Above 'Slander Gully' and 'Curiosity Crag'.

Coming up from 'Slander Gully', the first thing you come to is a compact wall going back up the hill. The descent gully is at the upper end of this wall. The main prow is undercut by a large overhang which is also the bivvy cave. The first route starts just left of the cave.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

Great for the grade.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1994

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

Two pitch crack route

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

Swing left over bulge to ledge as for "Pox Trot". Step right and up rounded arete to finish on ledge. Abseil from sling or do further 30 metres of easy climbing (?Scabs On Heat)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

Face on one of the last walls at right-hand end of cliff, with tree on ledge at 15 metres.

  1. 35m (12) Up to ledge.

  2. 35m (12) Left-facing corner on upper wall.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1996

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

  1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

  2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

  1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

  2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1996

Was the first attempt at Jive Ass. A flailing leader could not handle the pump and so bailed into the disgusting off width full of moss. Climb Jive Ass to horizontal, traverse L to offwidth and grovel up. Alternatively just look, laugh and go enjoy Jive Ass.

FA: Pete Bovino, 2016

This climb is on the South facing wall of the buttress above Mt Pox (also directly uphill from Curiosity). In the middle of the wall is a wide crack, this climb takes the clean line up wall to the R. Up just L of R facing corner and past overlap to the top.

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