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Description

It's given the name to keep you away, it's actually ok.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Above 'Slander Gully' and 'Curiosity Crag'.

Coming up from 'Slander Gully', the first thing you come to is a compact wall going back up the hill. The descent gully is at the upper end of this wall. The main prow is undercut by a large overhang which is also the bivvy cave. The first route starts just left of the cave.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 ** Pretty Poxy Trad 25m

Excellent route. Double ropes essential.

Start: Start just left of bivvy cave.

2
13 Arctic Pox Trad 40m

Start: Start just where the track emerges from the bivvy cave area.

3
18 Howling Huskies Trad 50m

Start: Start on right side of bivvy cave wall, a few metres left of the first chimney/chasm.

4
15 * Roll Over, Oates Trad 48m

Great for the grade.

FA: Greg Aimer, Christina Freestone, 1994

5
19 Scott's Last Move Trad 48m

Start: Start at wall 4 mtres right of "Roll Over, Oates"

6

Start: Start on left end of ledge off rocking block.

7
23 ** Taste of Husky Trad 60m

Two pitch crack route

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

8
20 * Pox on the Run Trad 45m

Start: Start at undercut wall 3 metres left of prominent undercut corner.

9
16 Pox FM Trad 15m

Swing left over bulge to ledge as for "Pox Trot". Step right and up rounded arete to finish on ledge. Abseil from sling or do further 30 metres of easy climbing (?Scabs On Heat)

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

10
12 The South Pox Trad 70m

Face on one of the last walls at right-hand end of cliff, with tree on ledge at 15 metres.

  1. 35m (12) Up to ledge.

  2. 35m (12) Left-facing corner on upper wall.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1996

11
17 Poxy Lady Unknown 65m

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

  1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

  2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1996

12
16 Pox Trot Unknown 70m

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

  1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

  2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1996

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.