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Description

The section of rock from 'Tourist Buttress' to 'Mixed Climb' comntains some of the best multi-pitch climbs in Victoria. This area includes everything moving right from the left edge of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Access issues inherited from Mt Rosea

The final access restrictions at Rosea were lifted prior to Easter 2013.

Approach

Where the walking track meets the cliff a pad goes off to the right and the base of 'Tourist Buttress' is 30 metres along this pad.

Descent Notes

Most routes go to the top of the cliff and descent is by following a rough track south-east along the top until the walking track is reached. This track is then followed to the top of the Giants Staircase. The top of this is often marked with tapes or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E Apart from an unsightly chain anchor on the first belay of 'Debutante', existing abseil descents have relied on trees. Many of these were severely damaged or died in the fires in 2006 and should be regarded with suspicion.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Brainchild Trad 71m

The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress' ends up in the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'. Rarely done. Usually only the first 25 metres is climbed as the 'Tourist Buttress' 'Brainchild' start.

Start: The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.

  1. 36m (16) Climb the chimney to a ledge at 27 metres. Up the corner on the left to a roof. Move right and go up through the break to a ledge.

  2. 35m (19) On the right and above the first pitch is a juggy crack. Start up this and sstep left to another crack before going up right to merge with the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress' which is followed.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1973

3
22 * Cruising Trad 82m
4

Good arete on the first pitch leads to a link-up of a lot of good climbing both existing and new.

The third pitch goes up to and through the recent rockfall area and extreme caution should be exercised.

Start: Start as for 'Tourist Buttress'.

  1. 25m (22) Veer up left to arete and go up to ledge.

  2. 25m (19) Head up and right and then around arete into second pitch of Fringe-Dweller. Up this to ledge.

  3. 32m (21) Move left and make committing move to a bolt. Continue up wall. Originally finished through a prominent cracked roof (17) to a big ledge but the left side of this roof fell off in the rockfall. Finish up 'Scarface'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Craig Nottle Pitch 1 22-05-1983. Cruising : Simon Mentz, Cameron Brooks., 2000

5
23 ** Tourist Buttress Trad 120m

An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.

Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1

Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.

  1. 24m (23) Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly by a variant just to left, by starting up the left and reaching back right or by aiding.

  2. 20m (18) Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.

  3. 24m (19) The thin groove directly above then move left and up the line bristling with more old pegs. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.

  4. 15m (14) Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch. or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree. or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.

  5. 33m (-) Easy chimney or finish up 'Scarface'. Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.

FA: Herbert Schlipper, Greg Lovejoy (alt) Easter, 1963

10
21 * Scarface Trad 38m

A good, exposed finishing pitch for 'Tourist Buttress' or Ascension, particularly now that the abseil tree is unsafe. Would be even better if the good climbing wasn't so brief.

Start: At DBB next to large tree at foot of final pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Peter Woolford., 1991

11
23 * Scarface Direct Trad 38m
13
14
21 *** The Ascension Trad 120m

Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.

Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.

  1. 33m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.

  3. 40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. Take care at the top of this pitch where loose blocks have been encountered where a huge block has recently fallen off.

  4. 35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1969

15
23 R ** Skywalker Trad 160m

An intricate line, very bold and well-conceived. While the upper pitches have been incorporated into a hybrid with Fringe Dweller, the first and second pitches are rarely done. Perhaps they are still ahead of their time.

Start: As for 'The Ascension'.

  1. 20m (22) Move up to The ascension corner and make a hard move onto the left arete. Go up to roof.

  2. 15m (22) Climb overhang at right end and go up to ledge.

  3. 24m (19) As for pitch 2 of Fringe Dweller

  4. 18m (23) Thin corner directly above belay to first small ledge (which is probably somewhat below the third belay of Fringe Dweller as shown in topo). The corner has little pro at first with some tricky moves, which gives factor two fall potential if you're belaying at the base of the corner. So maybe consider a hanging belay a bit lower to reduce the fall factor.

  5. 45m (22) Move right into the crack and up the steep, exposed line. Through overhang and corner above. Step right and up to ledge. The length of this pitch seems improbably long given that it is only 45 vertical metres to the top. It is probably because the belay at the start of the pitch is actually much lower than shown in topo.

  6. 25m (18) Traverse left under prow, finishing up deep line above.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest.., 1981

16
21 *** Fringe-dweller Trad 130m

A good route with some spectacular climbing and not always the best rock and protection.

Start: As for 'The Ascension',below corner at clear initial A.

  1. 32m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge. (Same as first pitch of The Ascension)

  2. 24m (19) Step left then straight up passing a bulge and a flaring jam crack to a small ledge below a right-facing corner. Protection is average and the anchors at the belay are good but not obvious.

  3. 27m (-) Traverse 3 metres right (corner directly above belay is 'Skywalker' 23) to smaller right-facing corner. Follow this past two bolts before traversing back left to the original corner which is followed steeply for 6 metres to a small stance on the left.

  4. 12m (20) Up to the triangular roof which is passed on the right. This pitch was originally graded 22 and they climbed a shallow corner 1-2m right of the roof whereas now people climb the right side of the roof (as in photo).

  5. 35m (-) Easily up or finish up 'Scarface'.

FA: Chris Peisker, Tim Beaman., 1976

19

The first two pitches of Fringe Dweller and the finish of 'Skywalker'. The grade drops to 22 if the third pitch of Fringe Dweller is used.

Start: As for Fringe-Dweller, 'Skywalker', 'The Ascension'.

20
22 ** The Prescription Trad 110m

Originally a long, somewhat contrived aid route. Most of it is now incorporated in 'Skywalker' or Fringe Dweller except for this very nice first pitch. Kevin and Peter Lindorff freed large sections of the first three pitches in February 1975. Higher sections were freed during the first ascent of 'Skywalker'.

Start: Corner right of Ascension. Faded initial P (looks a bit like D though).

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1970

21
23
16 to 20 * RIP Comer Trad 120m

A hard elegant flake crack leads to solid climbing at about grade 16. The first pitch is often done in its own right but the whole climb is worth doing. The abseil tree appears to be well after the fire but it would be better if a lower-off was installed to reduce the traffic around the tree.

Start: 'Flake' crack 3 metres right of 'The Prescription'

  1. 30m (18) 'Layback' the flake, which quickly eases and belay at the second tree.

  2. 23m (16) Right on sloping ledge and up groove to second ledge. Up to overhang (?peg) traverse left to third ledge. Up the flake to a green wall and corner to a ledge.

  3. 36m (16) Up corner at righthand back of belay ledge then up walls until level with lip of large roof to the left. Traverse left to the lip of the roof. Original pitch went up main corner with loose rock until overhang and then traversed right to join pitch as described.

  4. 34m (-) Bridge up chimney to tree. Up left wall then right wall and on up the line.

FA: Ian Guild, Michael Stone (alt), 1966

24
21 R Dry Reach Trad 40m

High on Rosea no-one can hear your second scream. A traverse of the less-amusing variety.

Start: At the second belay of 'The Last Rites'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Philip Armstrong Late 1970s, 2000

25
20 X Death Wish Trad 22m

A very bold first pitch with some quite hard moves.

Usually done as a toprope problem after doing the first pitch of RIP Corner.

Start: Midway between RIP Corner and 'The Last Rites'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Peter Lindorff, Mathew Taylor, 1976

26
18 ** Requiem Trad 120m

Unfortunately this historic climb is largely superseded by 'The Last Rites'. However it is a bit easier than that route and 'The Toff' so it is a good option for people who might not want to tackle a 19. The climb originally finished up 'Debutante' but is written up here with the direct finish.

Start: As for 'The Last Rites' at the left-facing flake-corner 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

  1. 33m (18) As for 'The Last Rites'

  2. 24m (18) AS for pitch 2 of 'The Last Rites'.

  3. 35m (-) Right to shallow, bushy chimney and up this to ledge. Now corner to belay at foot of Debutante's big corner.

  4. 35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above.

  5. 20m (15) Corner.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 04-03-1978, 1968

28
29
19 *** The Last Rites Trad 130m

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes really help, especially if you want to run some pitches together.

Start: Left facing flake-crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge at 12 metres (manky old PR). There are two ways to go here. The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then step right past it. Good climbing but there is no gear above the sloping ledge until the roof is reached and it may make this pitch 19. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang (there used to a peg somewhere about here). Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above the overhang. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right (a large wire flicked up into the corner of the next pitch helps with the belay here).

24m (18) Beautiful thin corner to small ledge on right. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

26m (19) Step down and follow obvious hand-traverse line out left for 4 or 5 metres to daunting corner (there are actually 3 corners above the traverse - this is the middle one). Up corner and past a peg runner. Exit left above overlap and up juggy wall to long ledge below overhang.

41m (17) Take the steep left-facing corner left of the overhang until it eases and up crack to top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), 1969

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1976

30
23 * The Loved One Trad 130m

A subtle line out left of 'The Last Rites'. Pitch 2 would make an interesting variation on 'The Last Rites'.

Start: As for 'The Last Rites'

  1. 33m (18) As for the first pitch of 'The Last Rites'.

  2. 20m (20) Up the corner of 'The Last Rites' for a few metres then swing boldly out left to gain the flake on the left wall. Up and left to corner, up 3 metres and traverse left to tree.

  3. 20m (22) Step right to corner left of third pitch of 'The Last Rites' and up this to mantle. Up left arete of blank corner then easily to long ledge.

  4. 35m (23) Up wall to below left arete of orange corner (just left of steep corner of Last Rites). Climb flake up arete over two overhangs. Move left to right-leading crack and follow it.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1986

31
16 R * Square Route Trad 40m

It's a bit hard to justify calling this early exploration a climb even though it has a quite hard section.

Start: As for 'Debutante'.

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Bern Lyons, 1963

32
19 * The Toff Trad 120m

There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.

Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.

  1. 20m (19) Climb the thin crack just left of 'Debutante Direct Start' to join 'Debutante' at 12 metres. Up to belay where 'Debutante' moves right. A better first pitch may be to do 'Debutante' DS and move left at the top to belay.

  2. 20m (19) 'Steep' corner finishing up groove on right.

  3. 30m (-) Right wall to bushy ledge just above. Left to corner and up to below big corner of 'Debutante'.

  4. 35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above. Original pitch went up 'Debutante' to big block and then traversed left to pitch 5.

  5. 20m (-) Corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, Rick White. Requiem Direct Finish (pitches 4,5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-03-1978 Toff Direct (pitches 1,3) Law, Baxter 22-03-1980., 1978

33
14 *** Debutante Trad 120m

Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Genrally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.

Start: Start up a ripply wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.

  1. 24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.

  2. 36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.

  3. 15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.

  4. 27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traveres right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).

  5. 15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.

FA: Mike Stone, Ian Guild., 1966

34
18 R Debutante Variant Trad 50m

The front of the buttress that forms Debutante's big corner. Appears runout above the overhang.

Start: At the pinnacle at second belay of 'Debutante'.

  1. 35m (18) Corner up front of buttress then overhang, steep wall, flake to large ledge on right.

  2. 15m (-) Traverse left then up nose to belay as for Debutante's last pitch.

FA: Peter Martin, Jenny Plant, 1994

36
24 ** It'll End in Tears Trad 80m
37
22 *** The Toff Direct Trad 120m
38

Excellent, sustained climbing though a bit scary in places. Also the fixed gear on pitch 2 needs replacing. A direct link between pitches 3 and 4 has been attempted and should go within the grade. That would improve the route further.

Start: Start at ripply wall 3 metres right of the Last Rites (as for Debutante)

  1. 30m (24) Easily straight up the wall to an overhang at 20 metres. Step right and over the bulge with a hard rockover. Undercling left to thin crack and up to tiny stance. It would be a good idea to move up and clip the first bolt on the next pitch as part of the belay.

  2. 24m (23) Up fragile, expanding flake and BR. Up and follow flake right to corner (PR). Mantle into corner and swing right past bolt to arete. Follow arete, easier but runout and groove to small ledge.

  3. 26m (22) Poorly protected and loose. Traverse left across slab and up thin open groove (corner immediately right of Last Rites pitch 3). Past little roof then more easily to long ledge.

  4. 40m (22) Move the belay 8 metres right to below the 'Debutante' corner. Go up a few metres, then left to the next corner and go up this. A great pitch.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. The final pitch is from Toff Direct MIke Law, Chris Baxter March 1980., 1986

39

The superb crack leading to the first belay of 'Debutante' is intimidating but has excellent holds and gear.

Start: Below the overhang about 5 metres right of 'Debutante'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (two aid points), 1970

40
26 ** (Unnamed) Trad 15m
41
26 ** Angry Young Men Mixed 60m, 3

This great arete has probably never had a complete ascent and the first pitch may not have been lead-climbed. The bolting on the first pitch really needs to be fixed up.

Start: Start just right of 'Debutante Direct Start'.

  1. 25m (26) Up the magnificent blank arete.

  2. 20m (18) Right to arete and up to bolt belay on 'The Jesus Factor'.

  3. 15m (26) Left on to rib and up past bolt. Finish on right.

FA: Gleen Tempest climbed top two pitches in. Scott Camps later bolted the first pitch which has susequently been toproped., 2000

42
23 *** The Jesus Factor Trad 60m

Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Marty Beare braced anchorless on the first belay holding Tempest falling onto poor runners on the crux.

Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.

Start: Start 20 metres right of 'Debutante Direct Start', 4 metres left of 'Heretic'.

  1. 30m (23) Up left to crack and climb it. Step left and climb cracked bulge. Traveres left at horizontals and up arete to ledge and single bolt belay.

  2. 30m (23) Up right arete with hard moves past a poor bolt (poor nuts nearby). Right and up to big ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Marty Beare, 1983

43
16 * Dust to Dust Trad 110m

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Speculation', as for 'Speculation' Direct Start.

  1. 23m (-) Up for 5 metres, step right onto rib. Up over bulge to first stance of 'Speculation'.

  2. 29m (20) Crack to left-curving flake then left-facing corner. Awkward exit to large ledge.

  3. 8m (-) Easy wide crack left of big jutting block to ledge on right.

  4. 32m (20) On to flake pedestal from right of the ledge. Climb weakness through bulge from left of pedestal. Go left below overhang and pull onto and up wall. Continue up front of buttress.

  5. 15m (-) Crack in front of buttress. Veer left near top.

FA: Peter Martin, Phil Robertson., 1991

44

A good varied pitch. With this start and the variant finish Speculation can be climbed as a completely separate line from Heretic. Start: 2m L of Heretic [which is marked with an S] Up cracks and face above.

45
16 * Speculation Trad 140m

Great sustained second pitch but it eases off dramatically after that. A better and completely independent climb can be had with the variant start and finish.

The original top pitches are not very enjoyable and pass through complex territory with many options leading into loose and poorly protected country. There are no safe abseil trees at this level.

Start: Start at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to have a faint inital S but couldn't locate this recently (2013).

  1. 24m (15) Up the crack and through steepening. Up to ledge on the left. Traverse left a couple of metres to good anchors. This is also the first pitch of 'Heretic'.

  2. 36m (16) Traverse 5 metres left to below a crack. Up sustained crack and step right below a bulge to a ledge. Delicate wall for 12 metres (small wires and cams needed). Traverse left to a corner, up it for 5 metres, step left and steeply up to terrace..

  3. 39m (11) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove. Up the RH side of this to foot of chimney.

  4. 36m (10) Chimney

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild, 1966

46

This finish is better than the original and makes the climb much more sustained. It should be possible to climb more directly into this finish from the second belay and avoid the section shared with pitch 3 of 'Speculation'.

Start: Start at the second belay of 'Speculation'.

  1. 36m (15) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove (this is as for P3 of Speculation). Up crack forming LH side of this, around an overhang and up to cave belay.

  2. 36m (15) Chimney then steep wall and up to below top overhang. Traverse R a few meters to finish up short seam.

FA: Chris Baxter, Peter McKeand, 1978

47
48
17 *** Heretic Trad 120m

Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.

Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to be marked with a faint initial S but this could not be seen recently (2013).

  1. 24m (15) Up the line and through the bulge. Continue easily to a ledge and move left along it a couple of metres to good anchors.

  2. 23m (17) Move back right and climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge.

  3. 24m (17) Move 3 metres left and climb the diagonal flake leading back right into the corner. Steeply up the corner past loose blocks to ledge on the left.

  4. 23m (17) From top of detached block pull onto steep juggy wall and up thin crack-line. Up and right to small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  5. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.At the start of this pitch it is tempting to move up right to what loooks like an easy escape. Don't do it! The top-outs that way are hard and horrible.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969

49
22 * Ashes to Ashes Trad 110m

A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.

'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.

Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.

  1. 41m (22) Easy corner until half=way to roof then step right and climb bold arete to roof. Break through overhang using crack just left of smooth groove, barely keepng out of 'Heretic'. Traverse right on lip of overhang then up and left up wall to shallow corner just right of 'Heretic' pitch two. Shallow corner and rib above. Move right around arete and up thin crack to ledge (original second belay of Diane).

  2. 20m (-) Move right and up 'Diane' for 3 metres. Step right to arete and go up into the next corner right of 'Diane' and up this to stance on left.

  3. 35m (-) Up line above, with odd formation at 3 metres. Step left and up face and steep wall into hanging corner. Up corner to roof. Exit right. (Diane Super Direct 35 19 From second belay of 'Diane', swing around overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above the belay. Up Corner to belay. Easier ground to top. Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedunary 14-02-1998)

  4. 10m (-) Up

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var).., 1984

50
18 *** Diane Trad 130m

Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Heretic', about 33 metres right of 'Debutante' just right of a large tree that has fallen over. Clear initial D.

  1. 32m (18) Up easy crack then step up and right and up hard groove through overhang. Above go up then left more easily to ledge below main corner.

  2. 40m (17) Up fantastic corner until it eases at about 24 metres (belay possible). Step right then up for a bit before moving back into the line. Up to a good ledge on the left.

  3. 25m (17) Up weakness in overhangs above and veer left up easy, poorly protected face to left end of overlap. Now continue as for 'Heretic' up small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  4. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Phillip Gledhill. They wandered way off to the left from halfway up pitch 2 and the route as described was done by Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett January 1970., 1968

51
18 * Diane Direct Start Trad 33m
52
53
17 *** Diane Direct-Heretic Trad 120m
54
19 Diane Super Direct Trad 35m
55
19 *** Hard Times Trad 150m

An intricate route up the rock right of 'Diane'. The direct variants possibly improve the climb - it depends on your point of view. Protection on the final pitches is sparse.

Start: Start at the V-groove just right of 'Diane'.

  1. 38m (19) Climb the grrove until slightly above a tree on the right. Move right below the bulge and climb the crack above the tree to a second, smaller tree in corner.

  2. 20m (-) The corner-crack to a ledge.

  3. 38m (-) Traverse left to tree at the base of two grooves. Follow the right-hand one (left one is Ashes To Ashes) to ledge. Move left over blocks to belay.

  4. 25m (-) Traverse back right from blocks and enter groove. Committing climbing leads diagonally right up the wall to a small stance below final crackless corner.

  5. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mathew Taylor (var), 1975

56
57
58
20 ** Hard Times Direct Unknown 110m

A couple of direct variants offer possibly better climbing than the original 'Hard Times'.

Start: Start as for 'Hard Times'

  1. 50m (20) Up to the bulge at about 15 metres and continue straight up twin cracks to a ledge.

  2. 15m (-) Follow the right-hand groove to a ledge below overhang (this is on pitch 3 of Hard Times).

  3. 22m (19) Pull onto the wall at the next weakness right of the start of Ht's fourth pitch and continue up the wall to rejoin HT near the belay.

  4. 25m (19) Traverse left to the crack on the left wall and climb it and difficult territory above. This is the same as the last pitch of 'Hard Times'.

FA: Pitch 1 : Joe Lynch, Jim Truscott 12-1985. Pitch 3 : Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman, 1977

59
11 ** Mixed Climb Trad 120m

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane'. Faint initials MC. To the left, 'Diane' has clear initial D and just right are clear initials KK.

  1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall. Some parties avoid this belay and combine the first two pitches. Rope drag can be a big problem if this is done.

  2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

  3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

  4. 21m (10) Traverse 3 metres right the up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right.

  5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 1961

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16 R ** The Seventh Seal Trad 140m

Multi-pitch girdle traverses are a weird concept but this long journey at the 20-25 metres mark between 'Mixed Climb' and Tourist is good value. There's a lot of well-protected climbing at about grade 11 or 12. Unfortunately there's one move that's a good deal harder and not well protected which knocks a star off and gets the serious rating.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb'.

  1. 24m (16) Up 'Mixed Climb' for 24 metres to a small stance.

  2. 18m (-) Traverse left into 'Diane' and up to its first belay.

  3. 15m (-) Down for 5 metres, traverse into a corner, continue into 'Speculation' and up to its first belay.

  4. 18m (-) Traverse left to the left end of the ledge. Drop down and traverse under the roof to the first belay of 'Debutante'.

  5. 30m (16) Traverse across and descend 'Debutante' for 6 metres. Go across the grey wall and around the arete to a sloping ledge in the corner (ancient peg). Up left, delicate and poor protection (thin sling), to another old peg and easily across to RIP Corner - this section with the pegs is as for 'Square Route'

  6. 15m (-) Across the narrow ledge to an overhanging block. Step underneath this and continue traversing left under the roof to the first belay of 'Tourist Buttress'.

  7. 15m (-) Step down left off the ledge and hand-traverse around the arete to a crack. Step down this and go left to the scrubby terrace which is the first belay of 'Tourist Direct'. Abseil from tree.

FA: Bob Connell, Rein Kamar, Keith Wadsworth (var), 1973

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19 Work Fodder Trad 33m

Strenuous. Unclear whether it encroaches on the wall climbing that some people do left of the upper crack on 'Knick Knack'. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb'. Up 'Mixed Climb' for 15 metres then traverse 2 metres right and up buttress between 'Mixed Climb' and 'Knick Knack'

FA: Craig Nottle, Doug Fife., 1983

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18 Jismhead Trad 42m

Good exposed crack finish. Abseil descent as for 'Knick Knack'.

Start: Start as for 'Mixed Climb', though could also start up 'Knick Knack'. Up 'Mixed Climb' for 15 metres then traverse right across 'Knick Knack' to exposed crack. Up crack

FA: Doug Fife, Craig Nottle., 1983

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19 * Knick Knack Trad 33m

The intimidating wide crack on right wall of 'Mixed Climb', initialled KK. Originally done with a cramped belay at the alcove at 12m.

Descent from large slings next to dead tree on 'Mixed Climb'.

Start: Crack 6 metres right of 'Mixed Climb'. Clear initials KK

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke.., 1970

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20 R * Warszawa Trad 110m

Some great climbing, particularly on the first pitch.

Start: Right of the overhangs right of 'Knick Knack'.

  1. 35m (20) Up with poor pro to steep fern-choked corner. Swing out left onto undercut nose on arete. Up arete to regain crack above the ferns. Continue past dangerous hanging blocks and up left-facing corner.

  2. 40m (17) Up left side of block and crack above. Step right and climb steep corner-crack. Exit up right to large ledge.

  3. 12m (-) Juggy left arete to next large ledge.

  4. 18m (19) Crack from middle of ledge to largest roof. Exit right up steep crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve (var), 1982

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20 Holocaust Trad 110m

It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.

  1. 33m (20) Traverse into the line from the right. Bridge between the corner and a pinnacle on the right and up over ferns for 10 metres or so. Up left to sloping ledge. Widening crack on left wall for 8 metres to chimney. Step up left to ledge.

  2. 45m (-) Chimney, passing behind chockstones and finish up corner above.

  3. 27m (-) Climb undercut hand-crack just left of large tree at back of terrace then veer right and easily up the as for the last little bit of 'Mixed Climb'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Mike Stone (one aid), 1973

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21 Solitude Trad 120m

A hard first pitch and then the standard drops dramatically and the climb wanders its way to the top. It is not clear that anyone has climbed the first pitch free in one push. The first ascent of 'Desperado' freed the climb from about the 16 metre mark. Then aid on the first 14 metres was eliminated during the ascent of 'Fear and Loathing'.

Start: Orange, overhanging corner about 10 metres right of 'Holocaust'. Clear initial S.

  1. 21m (21) Place a nut with a stick an climb the orange overhanging corner past old bolt and loose rock.

  2. 12m (-) The wall to small stance above an overhang.

  3. 17m (-) Traverse left and up chimney to sloping ledge (old bolt).

  4. 41m (-) Traverse 10 metres right and keep traversing right into Mug's Alley. Follow this to overhang and walk left to where the overhang ends.

  5. 33m (-) As for Mug's Alley

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett (var)., 1969

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21 * Fear and Loathing Trad 110m

Start: Start as for 'Solitude'.

  1. 25m (21) Place a nut with a stick an climb the orange overhanging corner past old bolt and loose rock. Step right at 14 metres where the corner steepens.

  2. 23m (-) Continue up corner to black cave, Right and up to belay on 'Solitude'.

  3. 15m (-) Up left to overhang. Left and up on rounded holds.

  4. 15m (-) Corner and arete to terrace.

  5. 30m (-) Corner and crack in orange wall.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Nic Taylor (alt), 1977

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21 * Desperado Trad 130m

Start: Start below the right arete of the 'Solitude' corner.

  1. 20m (21) Climb the thin diagonal, joining 'Solitude' at about 16 metres. Up 'Solitude' to its old bolt belay.

  2. 16m (-) Right and wall as for 'Solitude' pitch 2. Above the bulge travese left to below the chimney.

  3. 14m (-) Chimney, as for 'Solitude'.

  4. 45m (-) Traverse 3 metres right and climb onto the grey slab above. Follow the flake crack veering right to the arete. Climb the crack, then go up left to a tree. Climb to the terrace. Walk left to left-facing, undercut corner 5 metres left of the last pitch of 'Tequila Sunrise' (which is "first possibilty left of the roof").

  5. 35m (-) Up grooves and past a distinctive sod.

FA: Greg Child, Chris Baxter (alt)., 1976

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14 Mug's Alley Trad 110m

Sustained and interesting climbing. If you have done Mixed Climb and are looking for something a bit harder to do on Rosea this well protected outing is recommended. The original top pitch is dirty and unpleasant, the finish as described is far better. Start about 13 metres right of Solitude. Initialled MA.

  1. 25m (14) Up to the RH of two weaknesses. Climb this and its R wall to the deep chimney groove. Up this steeply, then short wall to ledge.

  2. 26m (14) Continue up the groove, towards the top move slightly R to a ledge about 8 metres below the big overhang. Straight up short crack [or more easily up ramp to R] to the large ledge below the overhang

  3. 29m (Walk) Walk left to the very end of the ledge and a steep jam crack. (For the original finish walk L past a shallow L facing corner, to a second dirty L facing corner about 16m before the end of the ledge. Original P4 description. "Pull up over the starting overhang and move up and diagonally right until the groove crack is reached. Up this then carry on up the wall to the left of a scrubby gully until holds lead to the corner to the right. Easily on for 6m and belay. Scramble off" Looks awful)

  4. 33m (14) Up the jam crack for 8m, traverse 3m R on narrow ledge and up good crack (BD 4 and 5 useful) to R leading ramp, up this and easy ground above.

FA: Chris Davis, Ian Guild (var), 1966

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Start: Start 3 metres right of Mug\'s Alley.

  1. 30m (17) Climb the line from beside huge eucalypt. Go direct over bulge at 18 metres and on to small stance 2 metres above a dead tree.

  2. 20m (16) Step right and climb twin cracks to very small stance where cracks peter out below a slab.

  3. -m (15) Straight up the seam above for 5 metres. Veer up right to right end of overhang. Up and step right to clean grey corner (as for P2 Tequila Sunrise). Up corner for 5 metres then veer up left, then straight up, to avoid loose blocks at top of corner, finishing on ledge below large ceiling.

  4. 33m (-) Walk left on ledge to below right-facing corner crack starting behind block on ledge 10 metres left of the left end of the overhang.

  5. 50m (14) Steeply up into corner-crack and up it to foot of steep little corner (this and wide crack above can be climbed at about 17). Take easier crack going diagonally right up right on easier ground.

FA: Chris Baxter, Stpehen Hamilton (alt)., 2008

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17 Tequila Sunrise Trad 130m

Start: Start about 10 metres right of Mug's Alley below a grey flake. First 2 pitches are quite good, 4th looks rounded and poorly protected. Best to finish as for Mugs Alley [walking L] or top 2 pitches of Goon Show [walking R].

  1. 42m (17) Up broken walls to the foot of the flake and follow it up right to a steep crack. Climb the crack to the second small stance. Nice sustained pitch after broken start.

  2. 25m (14) Climb the short wall above, up a couple of metres left then excellent grey corner to the big ledge below the roof.

  3. 25m (-) Walk left to the first possibility left of the roof.

  4. 35m (16+) Up a small corner just left of an arete then up arete on rounded holds. Up the groove above to bushy ledge. Step right and climb the chimney.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris Dewhirst (var), 1976

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14 The Goon Show Trad 120m

The major corner line which looks pretty vegetated and awful. The upper pitches out R after the big ledge make an interesting alternate finish to other routes in the area. The original crux on P 3 is probably harder than the 11 it was originally graded. Start: Start 18 metres right of Mug's Alley below the major corner line.

  1. 27m (-) Distinctive triangular slab veering left after 6 metres into the scrubby chimney on the left. Up to a tree below a corner.

  2. 15m (-) Corner to ?peg anchor.

  3. 15m (Crux) Continue past an overhang (loose rock) to a large ledge with an overhang.

  4. 16m (-) Walk right until just past a large L facing corner.

  5. 18m (14) Up steeply to ledge at 6 metres. Go right along ledge for 7 metres to a thin crack. Up on holds right of the thin crack then left to a ledge below a right facing corner formed by a large detached block.

  6. 24m (14) Up the crack formed by the detached block and on up the line above.

FA: Mike Stone, Peter Jackson (alt), 1965

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15 Heaven and Hell Unknown 170m

Good first pitch but the next four pitches are atrocious! The first ascent party suggests that an abseil anchor is neeeded at the top of the first pitch; the rest of us will wait for them to provide one.

Start: Start about 90 metres right of 'The Goon Show'. It is an attractive grey buttress with a prominent chimney-crack up is left side.

  1. 40m (15) Easily up left side of buttress for 8 metres to ledge with large tree at foot of difficult section. Up buttress on featured grey rock with one or two excursions to the left. At 30 metres go left to bypass a smooth slab then up and right to an alcove with a tree.

  2. 30m (-) Squeeze up behind the pinnacle on the right. Up the face above to a ledge on the right. Belay on right side of this ledge.

  3. 35m (-) Short hand-crack above the belay to scrubby ledge. Traverse left just above ledge for 9 metres until you can go up and right on slabby rock to gully.

  4. 30m (-) Up and right to left end of long ledge and foot of ugly corner. Avoid corner by traversing right on narrow ledge to terrace.

  5. 35m (-) Take easy line above or scramble off up right.

FA: Bob Bull, Chris Baxter (alt), 2008

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15 The Road to Damascus Unknown 85m

Climbs the most significant buttress at the far right end of the cliff.

Start: Start 40 metres right of 'Heaven and Hell'.

  1. -m (15) Up thin crack/groove just right of toe of buttress to ledge. Now tricky 3 metre wall to second, and larger, ledge. Go to left end of ledge.

  2. 50m (15) Up steep weakness above left end of ledge until the angle relents. The line directly above is guarded by a refrigerator-sized block so avoid it by veering up and right on the slabby face to the foot of the next line on the right. Up this line to narrow ledge below bulge. Go 3 metres left to small stance below prominent crack.

  3. 35m (15) Up the line (avoiding a huge loose block which is on the right wall) to ledge. Finish up beautiful rippled wall. Get off by scrambling up right.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter (alt)., 2008