The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress' ends up in the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress'. Rarely done. Usually only the first 25 metres is climbed as the 'Tourist Buttress' 'Brainchild' start.
Start: The chimney on the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.
36m (16) Climb the chimney to a ledge at 27 metres. Up the corner on the left to a roof. Move right and go up through the break to a ledge.
35m (19) On the right and above the first pitch is a juggy crack. Start up this and sstep left to another crack before going up right to merge with the third pitch of 'Tourist Buttress' which is followed.
Good arete on the first pitch leads to a link-up of a lot of good climbing both existing and new.
The third pitch goes up to and through the recent rockfall area and extreme caution should be exercised.
Start: Start as for 'Tourist Buttress'.
25m (22) Veer up left to arete and go up to ledge.
25m (19) Head up and right and then around arete into second pitch of Fringe-Dweller. Up this to ledge.
32m (21) Move left and make committing move to a bolt. Continue up wall. Originally finished through a prominent cracked roof (17) to a big ledge but the left side of this roof fell off in the rockfall. Finish up 'Scarface'.
An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.
Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1
Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.
24m (23) Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly by a variant just to left, by starting up the left and reaching back right or by aiding.
20m (18) Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.
24m (19) The thin groove directly above then move left and up the line bristling with more old pegs. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.
15m (14) Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch.
or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree.
or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.
33m (-) Easy chimney or finish up 'Scarface'.
Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.
Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.
Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.
33m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge.
9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.
40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. Take care at the top of this pitch where loose blocks have been encountered where a huge block has recently fallen off.
35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.
An intricate line, very bold and well-conceived. While the upper pitches have been incorporated into a hybrid with Fringe Dweller, the first and second pitches are rarely done. Perhaps they are still ahead of their time.
Start: As for 'The Ascension'.
20m (22) Move up to The ascension corner and make a hard move onto the left arete. Go up to roof.
15m (22) Climb overhang at right end and go up to ledge.
24m (19) As for pitch 2 of Fringe Dweller
18m (23) Thin corner directly above belay to first small ledge (which is probably somewhat below the third belay of Fringe Dweller as shown in topo). The corner has little pro at first with some tricky moves, which gives factor two fall potential if you're belaying at the base of the corner. So maybe consider a hanging belay a bit lower to reduce the fall factor.
45m (22) Move right into the crack and up the steep, exposed line. Through overhang and corner above. Step right and up to ledge. The length of this pitch seems improbably long given that it is only 45 vertical metres to the top. It is probably because the belay at the start of the pitch is actually much lower than shown in topo.
25m (18) Traverse left under prow, finishing up deep line above.
A good route with some spectacular climbing and not always the best rock and protection.
Start: As for 'The Ascension',below corner at clear initial A.
32m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge. (Same as first pitch of The Ascension)
24m (19) Step left then straight up passing a bulge and a flaring jam crack to a small ledge below a right-facing corner. Protection is average and the anchors at the belay are good but not obvious.
27m (-) Traverse 3 metres right (corner directly above belay is 'Skywalker' 23) to smaller right-facing corner. Follow this past two bolts before traversing back left to the original corner which is followed steeply for 6 metres to a small stance on the left.
12m (20) Up to the triangular roof which is passed on the right. This pitch was originally graded 22 and they climbed a shallow corner 1-2m right of the roof whereas now people climb the right side of the roof (as in photo).
Originally a long, somewhat contrived aid route. Most of it is now incorporated in 'Skywalker' or Fringe Dweller except for this very nice first pitch. Kevin and Peter Lindorff freed large sections of the first three pitches in February 1975. Higher sections were freed during the first ascent of 'Skywalker'.
Start: Corner right of Ascension. Faded initial P (looks a bit like D though).
A hard elegant flake crack leads to solid climbing at about grade 16. The first pitch is often done in its own right but the whole climb is worth doing. There is now a lower off anchor installed.
Start: 'Flake' crack 3 metres right of 'The Prescription'
25m (18) 'Layback' the flake, which quickly eases and belay at the bolts tree.
28m (16) Move up to and then right on sloping ledge and up groove to second ledge. Up to overhang (?peg) traverse left to third ledge. Up the flake to a green wall and corner to a ledge.
36m (16) Up corner at righthand back of belay ledge then up walls until level with lip of large roof to the left. Traverse left to the lip of the roof. Original pitch went up main corner with loose rock until overhang and then traversed right to join pitch as described.
34m (-) Bridge up chimney to tree. Up left wall then right wall and on up the line.
Unfortunately this historic climb is largely superseded by 'The Last Rites'. However it is a bit easier than that route and 'The Toff' so it is a good option for people who might not want to tackle a 19. The climb originally finished up 'Debutante' but is written up here with the direct finish.
Start: As for 'The Last Rites' at the left-facing flake-corner 10 metres right of RIP Corner.
33m (18) As for 'The Last Rites'
24m (18) AS for pitch 2 of 'The Last Rites'.
35m (-) Right to shallow, bushy chimney and up this to ledge. Now corner to belay at foot of Debutante's big corner.
35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above.
20m (15) Corner.
FA:Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct Finish (pitches 4, 5) Mike Law & Chris Baxter 04-03-1978, 1968
Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.
Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.
33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then:
The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete.
The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton.
Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.
24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)
26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.
41m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.
FA:Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), 1969
There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.
Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.
20m (19) Climb the thin crack just left of 'Debutante Direct Start' to join 'Debutante' at 12 metres. Up to belay where 'Debutante' moves right. A better first pitch may be to do 'Debutante' DS and move left at the top to belay.
20m (19) 'Steep' corner finishing up groove on right.
30m (-) Right wall to bushy ledge just above. Left to corner and up to below big corner of 'Debutante'.
35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above.
Original pitch went up 'Debutante' to big block and then traversed left to pitch 5.
20m (-) Corner.
FA:Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, Rick White. Requiem Direct Finish (pitches 4, 5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-03-1978 Toff Direct (pitches 1, 3) Law & Baxter 22-03-1980., 1978
Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.
Generally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.
Start: Start up a rippled wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.
24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.
36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.
15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.
27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traverse right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).
15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.
On the 4th pitch instead of going right to belay continue strait up the wall past piton and into step section of rock with very little gear, at the roof to a tricky step right then finish up the crack as for pitch 5
Excellent, sustained climbing though a bit scary in places. Also the fixed gear on pitch 2 needs replacing. A direct link between pitches 3 and 4 has been attempted and should go within the grade. That would improve the route further.
Start: Start at ripply wall 3 metres right of the Last Rites (as for Debutante)
30m (24) Easily straight up the wall to an overhang at 20 metres. Step right and over the bulge with a hard rockover. Undercling left to thin crack and up to tiny stance. It would be a good idea to move up and clip the first bolt on the next pitch as part of the belay.
24m (23) Up fragile, expanding flake and BR. Up and follow flake right to corner (PR). Mantle into corner and swing right past bolt to arete. Follow arete, easier but runout and groove to small ledge.
26m (22) Poorly protected and loose. Traverse left across slab and up thin open groove (corner immediately right of Last Rites pitch 3). Past little roof then more easily to long ledge.
40m (22) Move the belay 8 metres right to below the 'Debutante' corner. Go up a few metres, then left to the next corner and go up this. A great pitch.
FA:Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran. The final pitch is from Toff Direct MIke Law & Chris Baxter March 1980., 1986
Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Glenn Tempest braced on a small ledge without a belay holding multiple falls by Marty Beare as he seconded the technically difficult first pitch.
Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.
Start: Start 20 metres right of 'Debutante Direct Start', 4 metres left of 'Heretic'.
30m (23) Up left to crack and climb it. Step left and climb cracked bulge. Traveres left at horizontals and up arete to ledge and single bolt belay.
30m (23) Up right arete with hard moves past a poor bolt (poor nuts nearby). Right and up to big ledge.
A good varied pitch. With this start and the variant finish Speculation can be climbed as a completely separate line from Heretic. Start: 2m L of Heretic [which is marked with an S] Up cracks and face above.
Great sustained second pitch but it eases off dramatically after that. A better and completely independent climb can be had with the variant start and finish.
The original top pitches are not very enjoyable and pass through complex territory with many options leading into loose and poorly protected country. There are no safe abseil trees at this level.
Start: Start at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to have a faint inital S but couldn't locate this recently (2013).
24m (15) Up the crack and through steepening. Up to ledge on the left. Traverse left a couple of metres to good anchors. This is also the first pitch of 'Heretic'.
36m (16) Traverse 5 metres left to below a crack. Up sustained crack and step right below a bulge to a ledge. Delicate wall for 12 metres (small wires and cams needed). Traverse left to a corner, up it for 5 metres, step left and steeply up to terrace..
39m (11) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove. Up the RH side of this to foot of chimney.
This finish is better than the original and makes the climb much more sustained. It should be possible to climb more directly into this finish from the second belay and avoid the section shared with pitch 3 of 'Speculation'.
Start: Start at the second belay of 'Speculation'.
36m (15) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove (this is as for P3 of Speculation). Up crack forming LH side of this, around an overhang and up to cave belay.
36m (15) Chimney then steep wall and up to below top overhang. Traverse R a few meters to finish up short seam.
Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.
Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to be marked with a faint initial S but this could not be seen recently (2013).
24m (15) Up the line and through the bulge. Continue easily to a ledge and move left along it a couple of metres to good anchors.
23m (17) Move back right and climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge.
24m (17) Move 3 metres left and climb the diagonal flake leading back right into the corner. Steeply up the corner past loose blocks to ledge on the left.
23m (17) From top of detached block pull onto steep juggy wall and up thin crack-line. Up and right to small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.
23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.At the start of this pitch it is tempting to move up right to what loooks like an easy escape. Don't do it! The top-outs that way are hard and horrible.
A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.
'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.
Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.
41m (22) Easy corner until half=way to roof then step right and climb bold arete to roof. Break through overhang using crack just left of smooth groove, barely keepng out of 'Heretic'. Traverse right on lip of overhang then up and left up wall to shallow corner just right of 'Heretic' pitch two. Shallow corner and rib above. Move right around arete and up thin crack to ledge (original second belay of Diane).
20m (-) Move right and up 'Diane' for 3 metres. Step right to arete and go up into the next corner right of 'Diane' and up this to stance on left.
35m (-) Up line above, with odd formation at 3 metres. Step left and up face and steep wall into hanging corner. Up corner to roof. Exit right.
(Diane Super Direct 35 19 From second belay of 'Diane', swing around overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above the belay. Up Corner to belay. Easier ground to top. Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedunary 14-02-1998)
Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.
Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Heretic', about 33 metres right of 'Debutante' just right of a large tree that has fallen over. Clear initial D.
32m (18) Up easy crack then step up and right and up hard groove through overhang. Above go up then left more easily to ledge below main corner.
40m (17) Up fantastic corner until it eases at about 24 metres (belay possible). Step right then up for a bit before moving back into the line. Up to a good ledge on the left.
25m (17) Up weakness in overhangs above and veer left up easy, poorly protected face to left end of overlap. Now continue as for 'Heretic' up small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.
23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.
FA:Phillip Stranger, Phillip Gledhill. They wandered way off to the left from halfway up pitch 2, the route as described was done by Bruno Zielke & Gordon Talbett January 1970., 1968
This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.
Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.
24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.
24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.
20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.
21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.
31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.
Multi-pitch girdle traverses are a weird concept but this long journey at the 20-25 metres mark between 'Mixed Climb' and Tourist is good value. There's a lot of well-protected climbing at about grade 11 or 12. Unfortunately there's one move that's a good deal harder and not well protected which knocks a star off and gets the serious rating.
Start: as for 'Mixed Climb'.
24m (12) Up 'Mixed Climb' for 24 metres to a small stance.
18m (-) Traverse left into 'Diane' and up to its first belay.
15m (-) Down for 5 metres, traverse into a corner, continue into 'Speculation' and up to its first belay.
18m (-) Traverse left to the left end of the ledge. Drop down and traverse under the roof to the first belay of 'Debutante'.
30m (16) Traverse across and descend 'Debutante' for 6 metres. Go across the grey wall and around the arete to a sloping ledge in the corner (ancient peg). Up left, delicate and poor protection (thin sling), to another old peg and easily across to RIP Corner - this section with the pegs is as for 'Square Route'
15m (-) Across the narrow ledge to an overhanging block. Step underneath this and continue traversing left under the roof to the first belay of 'Tourist Buttress'.
15m (-) Step down left off the ledge and hand-traverse around the arete to a crack. Step down this and go left to the scrubby terrace which is the first belay of 'Tourist Direct'. Abseil from tree.
FA:Bob Connell, Rein Kamar & Keith Wadsworth (var), 1973
Some great climbing, particularly on the first pitch.
Start: Right of the overhangs right of 'Knick Knack'.
35m (20) Up with poor pro to steep fern-choked corner. Swing out left onto undercut nose on arete. Up arete to regain crack above the ferns. Continue past dangerous hanging blocks and up left-facing corner.
40m (17) Up left side of block and crack above. Step right and climb steep corner-crack. Exit up right to large ledge.
12m (-) Juggy left arete to next large ledge.
18m (19) Crack from middle of ledge to largest roof. Exit right up steep crack.
FA:Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Ed Neve (var), 1982
It is hard to believe that this was once a relatively popular climb. The first pitch is more like a garden fernery than a climb.
33m (20) Traverse into the line from the right. Bridge between the corner and a pinnacle on the right and up over ferns for 10 metres or so. Up left to sloping ledge. Widening crack on left wall for 8 metres to chimney. Step up left to ledge.
45m (-) Chimney, passing behind chockstones and finish up corner above.
27m (-) Climb undercut hand-crack just left of large tree at back of terrace then veer right and easily up the as for the last little bit of 'Mixed Climb'.
A hard first pitch and then the standard drops dramatically and the climb wanders its way to the top. It is not clear that anyone has climbed the first pitch free in one push. The first ascent of 'Desperado' freed the climb from about the 16 metre mark. Then aid on the first 14 metres was eliminated during the ascent of 'Fear and Loathing'.
Start: Orange, overhanging corner about 10 metres right of 'Holocaust'. Clear initial S.
21m (21) Place a nut with a stick an climb the orange overhanging corner past old bolt and loose rock.
12m (-) The wall to small stance above an overhang.
17m (-) Traverse left and up chimney to sloping ledge (old bolt).
41m (-) Traverse 10 metres right and keep traversing right into Mug's Alley. Follow this to overhang and walk left to where the overhang ends.
Start: Start below the right arete of the 'Solitude' corner.
20m (21) Climb the thin diagonal, joining 'Solitude' at about 16 metres. Up 'Solitude' to its old bolt belay.
16m (-) Right and wall as for 'Solitude' pitch 2. Above the bulge travese left to below the chimney.
14m (-) Chimney, as for 'Solitude'.
45m (-) Traverse 3 metres right and climb onto the grey slab above. Follow the flake crack veering right to the arete. Climb the crack, then go up left to a tree. Climb to the terrace. Walk left to left-facing, undercut corner 5 metres left of the last pitch of 'Tequila Sunrise' (which is "first possibilty left of the roof").
Sensational and somewhat intimidating climbing. Second pitch is really unlikely. First ascent gave it 3 stars but we’ll knock it down to two until it gets some repeats. Pitches 2 and 3 could be combined with careful rope work.
Takes the left line, a V-corner, through the 'Mug's Alley' bulge.
25m Up 'Mug's Alley' until you can move left and up V-corner. Move left to good ledge.
18m Up wall about 4m left of flake into short left facing corner (not visible from belay). To top of corner
then big step left and up to 3rd belay of ‘Solitude’ which is under distinctive small
curved roof line visible from first belay (old bolt and green cam).
20m (P 4 of ‘Desperado’) Traverse 3m right then up into flake. Follow this up right to the left arête of 'Mug's Alley' s Alley' then straight up thin crack & over ledges. Take care with loose rock at top.
50m abseil down 'Mug's Alley'.
Takes the central line (a chimney) through the 'Mug's Alley' bulge.
25m (15) Start up 'Mug's Alley' but take chimney through bulge and up this to small ledge.
20m (12) Left to left facing flake nose at about 8m. Straight up steeply about 5m then move right and up to arête. Hard move up right on slab under sickle (10 mm
cam) to belay on 'Mug's Alley' . 3. 15m As for 'Mug's Alley' . 50m abseil down 'Mug's Alley'.
Sustained and interesting climbing. If you have done Mixed Climb and are looking for something a bit harder to do on Rosea this well protected outing is recommended. The original top pitch is dirty and unpleasant, the finish as described is far better. Even better abseil off at the top of P2 from the handy double bolt anchor.
Start about 13 metres right of Solitude. Initialled MA.
25m (14) Up to the RH of two weaknesses. Climb this and its R wall then L to the deep chimney groove. Up this steeply, then short wall to ledge.
26m (14) Continue up the groove, towards the top move slightly R to a ledge about 8 metres below the big overhang. Straight up short crack [or more easily up ramp to R] to the large ledge below the overhang. [Abseil bolts at top of ramp, 50m to ground].
29m (Walk) Walk left to the very end of the ledge and a steep jam crack. (For the original finish walk L past a shallow L facing corner, to a second dirty L facing corner about 16m before the end of the ledge. Original P4 description. "Pull up over the starting overhang and move up and diagonally right until the groove crack is reached. Up this then carry on up the wall to the left of a scrubby gully until holds lead to the corner to the right. Easily on for 6m and belay. Scramble off" Looks awful)
33m (14) Up the jam crack for 8m, traverse 3m R on narrow ledge and up good crack (BD 4 and 5 useful) to R leading ramp, up this and easy ground above.
30m (17) Climb the line from beside huge eucalypt. Go direct over bulge at 18 metres and on to small stance 2 metres above a dead tree.
20m (16) Step right and climb twin cracks to very small stance where cracks peter out below a slab.
-m (15) Straight up the seam above for 5 metres. Veer up right to right end of overhang. Up and step right to clean grey corner (as for P2 Tequila Sunrise). Up corner for 5 metres then veer up left, then straight up, to avoid loose blocks at top of corner, finishing on ledge below large ceiling.
33m (-) Walk left on ledge to below right-facing corner crack starting behind block on ledge 10 metres left of the left end of the overhang.
50m (14) Steeply up into corner-crack and up it to foot of steep little corner (this and wide crack above can be climbed at about 17). Take easier crack going diagonally right up right on easier ground.
Start: Start about 10 metres right of Mug's Alley below a grey flake. First 2 pitches are quite good, 4th looks rounded and poorly protected. Best to finish as for Mugs Alley [walking L] or top 2 pitches of Goon Show [walking R].
42m (17) Up broken walls to the foot of the flake and follow it up right to a steep crack. Climb the crack to the second small stance. Nice sustained pitch after broken start.
25m (14) Climb the short wall above, up a couple of metres left then excellent grey corner to the big ledge below the roof.
25m (-) Walk left to the first possibility left of the roof.
35m (16+) Up a small corner just left of an arete then up arete on rounded holds. Up the groove above to bushy ledge. Step right and climb the chimney.
The major corner line which looks pretty vegetated and awful. The upper pitches out R after the big ledge make an interesting alternate finish to other routes in the area. The original crux on P 3 is probably harder than the 11 it was originally graded.
Start: Start 18 metres right of Mug's Alley below the major corner line.
27m (-) Distinctive triangular slab veering left after 6 metres into the scrubby chimney on the left. Up to a tree below a corner.
15m (-) Corner to ?peg anchor.
15m (Crux) Continue past an overhang (loose rock) to a large ledge with an overhang.
16m (-) Walk right until just past a large L facing corner.
18m (14) Up steeply to ledge at 6 metres. Go right along ledge for 7 metres to a thin crack. Up on holds right of the thin crack then left to a ledge below a right facing corner formed by a large detached block.
24m (14) Up the crack formed by the detached block and on up the line above.
Start 5m Right of 'Bunyip Aristocracy' at lowest point on this section of cliff.
Up to large wire placement at three metres (clip with a screw gate krab). Left to good jug. Mantle then trend slightly right on amazing holds then up to tree. Abseil.
First half is steep and juggy, second half is delicate and insecure. Start between the two wide scrubby cracks right of 'Eat Sleep Rave Repeat', look for a FH up high. There is a cairn about two meters above the ground.
40m Easily up to ledge. Put a high runner in the left-facing corner. Move right onto the front of the buttress then up steeply. Trend slightly left past 3 FHs and other gear to scrubby ledge.
15m. Up juggy orange wall on the left.
(Glen lead a third pitch but you really don’t want to know about that.)
Abseil from tree asfor Eat Sleep Rave Repeat. Alternative up R of first belay to stout tree and rap anchor.
FA:James McIntosh, Glen Donohue & Tony Veling, 2 Oct 2015
Nice climbing. 2nd buttress right of 'Sirens' Song' is separated from the main cliff by a chimney behind its left side. Climb the left side of the buttress keeping as close to the arete as reasonable. 40m abseil from U bolts.
Really nice climbing up the middle of 'Gridlocked' buttress. Gain the ledge at the base from the left as for 'Gridlocked' then up behind large forked tree. At blank slab at 25m move R to arete then back up leftward. Escape overhanging conclusion on the left.
Good first pitch but the next four pitches are atrocious! The first ascent party suggested that an abseil anchor is needed at the top of the first pitch; maybe now there is, as it looks like the first pitch goes up the Gridlocked buttress.
Start: Start about 90 metres right of 'The Goon Show'. It is an attractive grey buttress with a prominent chimney-crack up is left side.
40m (15) Easily up left side of buttress for 8 metres to ledge with large tree at foot of difficult section. Up buttress on featured grey rock with one or two excursions to the left. At 30 metres go left to bypass a smooth slab then up and right to an alcove with a tree.
30m (-) Squeeze up behind the pinnacle on the right. Up the face above to a ledge on the right. Belay on right side of this ledge.
35m (-) Short hand-crack above the belay to scrubby ledge. Traverse left just above ledge for 9 metres until you can go up and right on slabby rock to gully.
30m (-) Up and right to left end of long ledge and foot of ugly corner. Avoid corner by traversing right on narrow ledge to terrace.
35m (-) Take easy line above or scramble off up right.
Climbs the most significant buttress at the far right end of the cliff.
Start: Start 40 metres right of 'Heaven and Hell'.
-m (15) Up thin crack/groove just right of toe of buttress to ledge. Now tricky 3 metre wall to second, and larger, ledge. Go to left end of ledge.
50m (15) Up steep weakness above left end of ledge until the angle relents. The line directly above is guarded by a refrigerator-sized block so avoid it by veering up and right on the slabby face to the foot of the next line on the right. Up this line to narrow ledge below bulge. Go 3 metres left to small stance below prominent crack.
35m (15) Up the line (avoiding a huge loose block which is on the right wall) to ledge. Finish up beautiful rippled wall. Get off by scrambling up right.