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Description

The left side of Rosea is the area below the Giant's Staircase and moving left from there. Unfortunately the upper sections of the climbs here tend to break down and there can be a lot of dirt and bushes in these parts. This does tend to detract from what are often high quality lower pitches. It is not until the area around The Last Act is reached that the climbing could be said to be good all of the way to the top. Still, there are many great climbing experiences here. You could do a lot worse than setting out to climb all of the Dewhirst/Zielke routes done in 1969-70.

Access issues inherited from Mt Rosea

The final access restrictions at Rosea were lifted prior to Easter 2013.

Approach

Head off left at the third hair-pin bend on the walking-track. The route across below the cliffs is currently somewhat overgrown and rough and there is some fallen timber.

Descent Notes

Climbs close to 'The Last Act' can abseil down this route either from the terrace at the top of 'Dinosaur Gully' or the very top. Requires 2 x 50m ropes. Alternatively follow the walking track back along the cliff-top to the top of the Giant Staircase which may be marked by tape and/or cairns and is at 37.190150 S, 142.502186 E

Tags

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Margarita Trad 23m

OK face climbing on good rock. Not a bad climb to fill out the day. The start and finish will be dirty .

Start: Where the access pad reaches the cliff at a thin seam at the right hand side of a smooth wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Peter Cunningham, 1981

2
15 Shadrach Trad 75m

Loose blocks, old bolts and pitons (yum, yum). Could be OK, you never know.

Start: Below left-facing corner with faded initial S

  1. 24m (14) Steeply up past the right side of the tree. The crack on the right wall of the corner is fairly gross. Better to go up thin cracks to the left of the wide crack, then traverse back right to the wide crack (large cam). Up a move to a rotten chockstone then boldly up out onto the right wall. Nice moves on lovely rock with just enough pro to move back left to the crack high up and go up to tree belay.

  2. 27m (15) Traverse diagonally left for 6 metres above orange wall of corner. Climb wall to grassy ledge (?peg). Traverse back into corner and climb it past loose block to ledge. Old bolt belay.

  3. 9m (-) 'Layback' up corner left of bolt to roof. Hand traverse left to ledge.

  4. 15m (-) Finish up wall above roof.

FA: John Moore, Bruce Osborne (alt), 1966

3
16 R Shadrach Direct Start Trad 33m

This harder start to 'Shadrach' is something of a mystery as there are two possibilities for where it goes.

The obvious line is the attractive orange groove almost directly above the start of the pitch. The major problem with this is that it wouldn't naturally finish at the tree at the top of the first pitch, it would go straight up unto the second pitch. There's no mention of the long traverse that would be required to get to the tree. There's also the problem of no apparent protection for quite a way after the ledge at 6 metres.

The other possibility is to move back right from the ledge at 6 metres into the corner left of the wide crack of the first pitch of 'Shadrach'. This traverse isn't mentioned but there appears to be a peg scar in this corner and the line goes to the tree belay. The major problem with this option is that the block in the corner appears to be suicidally dangerous.

The description is taken from the existing sources and doesn't make a choice between the two options.

Start: Seven metres left of 'Shadrach' under an orange groove.

FA: Ian Ross, Barry Noye., 1967

4
16 The Decameron Trad 63m

The weak wordplay in the name may have been vaguely amusing in the early seventies but even that value has long gone. Avoid it.

Start: Start about 5 metres left of 'Shadrach' DS, 12 metres left of 'Shadrach'.

FA: Keith Lockwood , Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973

5
22 * Memories of Provence Mixed 90m, 1

Supposed to be good climbing on all pitches. Lovely grey and orange rock on the first pitch.

Start: Start at small undercut corner 10m right of Big Boys Don't Cry.

  1. 30m (22) Up corner for 4m, move right into groove, follow groove to roof. Traverse right onto ledge, step back left (PR) and through break in overhang (BR). Up to small stanec.

  2. 30m (18) Cracks in right wall of corner then back into the corner. Up until progress is blocked, step left and go up to rejoin the corner. On to ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Step left into orange corner, up to roof, traverse left to break then up steep corner. Finish up face.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Phillip McMillan, 1997

6
21 R * Big Boys Don't Cry Trad 90m

Fairly good but the start is a bit scarey and there's a dangerous boulder on the third pitch. Maybe take the alternate start and drop the grade to 18.

Start: Short smooth corner capped by a roof just right of 'Meshach'.

  1. 20m (21) Corner to roof, undercling left, diagonally right. Alternatively climb the undercut groove corner that starts 5m further right (currently obscured by a dead tree).

  2. 30m (18) Thin face crack and through weakness in roof. Right wall of corner.

  3. 40m (18) Hard start to corner then crack in right wall to ledge above balanced boulder. Up right arete.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var). Alternate start : Phillip McMillan, Jeremy Boreham, 1997

8
17 * Meshach Trad 81m

Excellent sustained climbing, especially on the first half. Dirt and bushes detract from the latter half of the climb. Originally done in three pitches.

Start: Starts at the letter "A" as for 'Abednego' and takes the right-hand line.

  1. 41m (16) Follow the line past a tiny stance at 30m to a good, scrubby ledge.

  2. 40m (16) Move past the conifer and on up corners to the top with some dirt and scrub

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969

9
18 Abednego Direct Trad 85m

May be worth a look.

Start: Start as for 'Abednego'

  1. 21m (-) The corner then onto left arete and up a good crack as or 'Abednego'. Move back right as for that climb and belay.

  2. 24m (-) Bridge up to scrubby ledge above V-corner.

  3. 25m (18) Off-width and corner to tree.

  4. 15m (-) Up then up and right through scrub.

FA: Richard Evans, John Stone, 1984

10
16 Abednego Trad 87m

Some good climbing but again it's a bit scrubby and doesn't inspire as much as its neighbours for some reason.

Start: As for 'Meshach' by the Initial "A", 15m right of 'Coronary Country'.

  1. 30m (16) The corner then onto left arete and up a good crack. Back right and bridge up to roof. Traverse 6m left and up over a small overhang to small (?dead) tree.

  2. 27m (-) Corner above until steeply overhanging crack forces a 2m traveres right. Up shattered corners across sloping ledges.

  3. 30m (-) Left and up through scrub

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1969

11

Maybe a good first pitch but the name gives more than a hint of what's on offer.

Start: As for 'Cream'

  1. 37m (18) Up the 'Cream' corner and head up diagonally right and up to the first belay of 'Abednego'. Step right and up twin cracks to ledge/cave.

  2. 53m (-) If you can be bothered go 6m left and then fight your way up for two more pitches, occasionally straying onto rock.

FA: Mark Poustie, Campbell Mercer, 1993

12
20 * Cream Trad 90m

Great face climbing on first pitch.

Start: 'Small' corner 8 metres right of 'Coronary Country'

  1. 41m (20) Corner then face, veering left towards left edge of face

  2. 49m (-) Scrubby finish which may have bits in common with top of 'Coronary Country'.

FA: Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk (alt), 1977

13
26 ** Coronary Country Aid 100m

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

  1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

  2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

  3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

  4. 12m (-) Scrub

FFA: pitch 3 Chris Baxter 1980s

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969

FFA: pitch 1: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1986

14
18 * Gillian Trad 84m

Dramatic line with sustained climbing. You only get the tick if you do all of the climb.

Start: Corner 10 metres left of 'Coronary Country'

  1. 33m (16) Up corner, steeply past right side of triangular roof, back left to belay.

  2. 30m (15) On up corner past the right side of another roof.

  3. 21m (18) Corner to a large ledge. Don't walk off but climb hard overhang and then up line.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (alt), 1969

15
16 R * Ma Cherie Trad 84m

Lovely first pitch but then deteriorates a bit though quite sustained and not well protected on pitch 2. Have given it a star for the first pitch. This was the last of the climbs put up at Rosea by the Dewhirst/Zielke team from 1969-70.

Start: Start as for 'Gillian'.

  1. 30m (15) Up the corner for 6m, move 2m left then up the wall to ledge.

  2. 36m (16R) Diagonally left for 10m then right and up to a large, bushy ledge below a clean off-width corner. It is thought that repeats of this climb have gone too far left on this pitch and ended up at the smooth corners at the beginning of the final pitch of Renate.

  3. 18m (16) The corner.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt) and Fred Langenhorst, 1970

16
22 R Nightmare Trad 90m

Savage looking corner leads into overhanging, undercut crack. Looks very dramatic and with lovely rock but first pitch has poor protection and the third pitch deteriorates. Probably worth a star but needs a repeat by a sufficiently strong climber.

Start: Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Ma Cherie'.

  1. 16m (22) Short fierce wall into corner. Halfway up this corner to the roof pull dramatically out to the right arete and up to a small stance.

  2. 22m (-) Steup, traverse left to short corner capped by overhang: turn this on left. 'Steep' crack to ledge on right.

  3. 32m (-) Scrub, short chimney, step right and up (to) hard corner.

  4. 20m (-) Corner (suspect that this is the middle of three corners, but could be right-hand. Left one is 'Renate', right one (16) has been done on a repeat of Ma Cherie )

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylia Lazarnick, 1977

17
18 R * Renate Trad 90m

Very sustained with mostly OK protection but the third pitch has a poorly protected corner. Expect to find a bit of dirt as it is rarely climbed but it is worth it.

Start: Below the major corner about 20m left of Gillian/Ma Cherie.

  1. 12m (16) The wall right of the bushy corner to ledge below the main corner

  2. 39m (18) Climb the corner which gradually eases to belay under an overhang, which can offer a little shade on a warm day.

  3. 39m (17) Step right and go up 5m to below three corners. Boldly up leftmost corner, taking care with rock, then to ledge on left. 'Steep' crack off ledge to top.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt), 1970

18
20 * Cry Freedom Trad 25m

Awkward seam leads to lovely crack system that has tantalised climbers for over two decades. A long sling will be needed for the rap-anchor.

Start: Start 5m left of 'Renate' at a seam that marks the right end of smooth orange wall capped by an overhang.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1994

19

Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular. Start as for 'Cry Freedom'

  1. 20m (19) Climb Cry Freedom for 5 metres, traverse 2 metres left then up weakness for 4 metres (difficult gear). Traverse 2 metres left to rest. Up easily to horizontal break and small overhang below where wall steepens. Up weakness above to horizontal break and tiny stance.

  2. 25m Up wall above then veer up 2 metres left to weakness. Climb this, over bulge, then up right into small corner which leads to stance below roof. Beware of large detached blocks at top of this pitch.

  3. 20m Traverse 4 metres right to large flake. From top of flake, go 2 metres left then up seam to bushy ledge.

  4. 45m Walk left for 25 metres on ledge to where it is much wider and clear of scrub. Climb attractive corners above to stance.

  5. 20m (19) Crack above to cracked overhang. Surmount this with difficulty and finish up corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran (alt), 2001

20
22 R Twitter and Bisted Trad 110m

Steep wall with a terrible-looking bolt leading to roof and then a lot of easier climbing.

Start: Just before the track next to the stops abruptly below a terrible-looking bolt at 4m.

  1. 20m (22) Go up left from BR to roof. Left for 2m and up through weakness.

  2. 90m (-) Up more easily for two pitches (that's all the detail there is). It probably joins pitch 3 of 'Royal Blues' after about 20 metres and finishes up that climb.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, Geoff Gledhill, 1983

21
23 M0 * Royal Blues Aid 120m

An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.

The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts

Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

  1. 21m (23 M0) The seam past the odd carrot. Use one or two of the bolts in the roof for aid and then continue up to bolt anchor

  2. 27m (-) Up.

  3. 22m (-) Crawl right to bushy line, up to terrace (apparently Steve Monks straightened this out a bit). Now up left.

  4. 30m (-) Groove, shallow corner. Step left and up slightly right to below yellow corner.

  5. 20m (-) Corner, poor rock. Exit right around overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter (var)., 1969

FA: Mostly free : Steve Monks, Ginette Harrison, 1994

22
24 ** Bourgeois Blues Trad 130m

A great first pitch up the corner but then the climbing eases dramatically and deteriorates in the second half of the climb.

Start: Below the huge corner on the left side of the smooth wall, just right of the large overhang. Clear initials BB.

  1. 27m (24) The corner, exiting on left wall

  2. 30m (17) Continue up the line passing first overhang on right.

  3. 18m (-) Left and up to terrace

  4. 21m (10) 6m up flake, step left, up to scrub, right to corner.

  5. 33m (10) Up, veering right

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch two freed by Peter Lindorff in. First pitch cut to two aids by Tim Beaman and Sylvia Laznarick in 1977. Freed by Kim Carrigan 1978., 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

23
10 R Silverband Trad 170m

Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing.

Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").

  1. 25m (-) Go up 3 metres and traverse right to a tree (a steep grade 15 direct start climbs the corner to the right). Move up more steeply, veering left into a small chimney. Traverse right from a chockstone and go up to a ledge.

  2. 21m (-) Step down and continue right into a corner. Up a little then right along a ledge for 7 metres to a weakness which is climbed for 6 metres. Move right again.

  3. 12m (-) Traverse right to just past a bush.

  4. 23m (-) 'Steep' climbing above the bush leads to a large bushy ledge just right of a chimney.

  5. 23m (10) Climb the chimney to a large ledge and continue up the corner on the left for 5 metres. 'Steep', strenuous climbing on dubious holds leads to a large, scrubby ledge.

  6. 21m (-) Climb 6 metres up the flake-crack on the clean wall left of the scrubby area. Step left and go up to a forest. Walk right to a corner.

  7. 33m (-) Line of weakness, veering right, to the top.

FA: Geoff Shaw, Chris Davis (alt)., 2nd Sep

24
17 R Misspent Youth Trad 150m

Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb.

Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.

  1. 30m (14) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is a for Vee Wee) and exit right to a ledge (this pitch same as for Bad Moon Rising)

  2. 35m (17) Traverse easily right to the overhanging arete which is climbed on jugs to a small ledge. Up a few metres on rounded, mossy rock and traverse left to the arete which is climbed to a small stance.

  3. 30m (-) Go up to the roof above a yellow block. Veer up left on the arete above to a goood, large ledge.

  4. 20m (-) Straight up to terrace.

  5. 30m (-) Short wall and finish up chimney-crack on the right.

FA: Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt), 1975

25
20 Bad Moon Rising Trad 150m

Good second pitch, which originally had a lot of aid, including sky and bat hooks, but otherwise ordinary. The route length appears to be exaggerated.

Start: Start as for "Vee Wee".

  1. 30m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is as for "Vee Wee") and exit right to a ledge.

  2. 30m (20) The corner for 15 metres before heading up right to a ledge.

  3. 44m (-) Diagonally left (?PR) then back right to a crack leading to a terrace.

  4. 42m (-) As for "Vee Wee".

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter (alt), 1969

26
16 Vee Wee Trad 96m

Used to be considered some sort of classic but it's not much fun. The exit from pitch two is not for the stout of body.

Start: Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack in the right wall.

  1. 27m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) and exit left to bushy ledge.

  2. 27m (16) Up the main line and move up right around roof. Crawl up into cave and squeeze through hole to terrace.

  3. 42m (-) Move up to the chimney above and up for 15 metres to broad ledge. Finish up the chimney. This pitch looks as though it has a lot in common with the finish of The "Stinger" but I can't clearly remember it.

FA: Kevin Sheehy, Phill Seccombe (alt)., 1966

27
18 * The Magellian Heart Trad 100m

Should be good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimnneys. Third pitch looks outstanding. The route is now considered grade 20 but which pitches have that grade is not clear.

Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"

  1. 30m (20) Line then right and bulging flake. Step right to belay.

  2. 28m (20) Thin crack on front of buttress

  3. 20m (18) Up on block then crack in orange wall. The final wide section can be avoided by going up left on flakes. This pitch was later written up be Peter Steane as a variant pitch to Stinger. He used the flakes out left to finish which may have been new ground.

  4. 22m (20) Middle buttress from terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Ed Neve, 1978

29
30
15 * The Stinger Trad 120m

Good adventure with the well protected crux right at the start. Good adventure but the first pitch crux is now very mossy. There is no way it can be climbed free at 15 in its current state [but it is easy to pull up on a good bit of gear or 2 and avoid that section] Well worth the effort. Start: The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee'.

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a dirty, technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney.

  2. 12m (13) The chimney and belay above the hole (or continue up next pitch).

  3. 21m (13) The crack above, right across the top of a thin buttress (passing below a juggy, overhanging crack). Traverse right above the terrace and climb the rib entering the gully(old piton).

  4. 33m (15) V-chimney to terrace and up steep chimney to top. Alternatively, the original finish : when on terrace, walk 10m right and belay. Go 3m up chimney, right on ledges and up over prow.

FA: Fred Kitchener, Peter Jackson, John Fahey. Freed: Peter Jackson, 1964

31
15 R * Drone Bee Trad 60m

A direct finish to 'The Stinger' in a magnificent situation but with some poor rock and protection.

Start: As for 'The Stinger' (the major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee').

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney. This is as for pitch 1 of 'The Stinger'.

  2. 12m (-) The chimney and belay above the hole. As for Pitch 2 of 'The Stinger'.

  3. 30m (16) Left to corner and up it to terrace. This is sustained, runout in places and probably dirty.

  4. 30m (16) Steeply up front of recessed buttress. Finish up chimney. Not sure exactly what this corresponds to. Another finish is to take a slabby, poorly protected groove up left to a chimney (may be the same chimney referred to just above). Up the chimney and exit right near the top. Robyn Storer, Kieran Loughran 09-1981.

FA: Keith Egerton, Jim Nelson (alt) c., 1976

32
22 * Vosaxis Trad 130m

Fairly irrelevant. Five metres of desperate climbing on an otherwise easy, wandering, long climb.

Start: Start as for "The Stinger".

  1. 36m (15) Easily up to a technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney.

  2. 12m (-) The chimney and belay above the hole.

  3. 21m (-) Left along ledges and up a little. Easily left again and up to a large ledge with conifer.

  4. 16m (-) Diagonally right to another tree. Up to thin flakes and traverse left on them to large ledge.

  5. 16m (22) Step right and up 2 metres to a conifer. Step left and up to stance. Corner to next stance. Now up hard orange corner and step left at top.

  6. 30m (-) Left through scrub and up chimney (as for final pitch of "Curtain Call").

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson (alt), 18th Apr

33
22 * National Acrobat Trad 120m

Sustained climbing at grade 18 up the middle of the great wall left of" The Stinger" before wandering over to a desperate crux up the "Vosaxis" corner. Small wires and RPs are needed.

Start: At weakness in wall 5 metres left of "The Stinger"

  1. 25m (18) Climb weakness until able to move left and up a steep wall.

  2. 25m (18) Make way up wall to another small ledge.

  3. 30m (17) Up to and up flake then traverse a long way left to steep orange corner. It is also possible to pick your way diagonally leftish to the base of the corner.

  4. 10m (22) Fierce thin corner is fiddly to protect (many small wires).

  5. 30m (17) Crack just left of arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

35
21 R * Curtain Call Mixed 140m, 3

The early pitches look good and are reputed to have poor protection but things deteriorate higher up. It is thought that the short bolt ladder at the top of pitch 1 has not been freed. The route is described as done free. It might be advisable to rationalise the pitches a bit. Maybe extend pitch 1 a few metres to the ledge and then run pitches 2 and 3 together.

Start: About 30 metres left of "The Stinger" at the clear initials CC

  1. 15m (18) Climb thin crack until 3 metres below old bolt then traverse 4 metres right to stance (original continues direct on aid to ledge and then moves right along ledge to join pitch 2).

  2. 29m (21) Continue right to a left-facing corner and climb it to a ledge a few metres higher (original route joins from left). Up flake-crack and wall above. Go diagonally up left, then traverse 8 metres left to single dubious BB below a wide groove. It would be much safer to continue up next pitch.

  3. 15m (-) Groove to ledge.

  4. 22m (-) Up right to ledge. Traverse 12 metres left and climb bushy corner.

  5. 14m (-) Corner to ledge, step left and over block to terrace.

  6. 42m (-) Scrub then chimney. Alternatively, do the last pitch of "National Acrobat", just to the right or abseil from the top of "The Last Act", just to the left.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter (alt), 1968

37
38
22 to 23 *** The Last Act Trad 100m

Awesome line and climbing. Not many grade 22 leaders flash this so it's bumped up to 23.

Start: Start below the fantastic corner left of 'The Stinger', 6 metres left of the clear initials CC. Faint initials LA.

  1. 20m (18) Corner to stance in chimney

  2. 25m (23) Corner to roof and left past peg to ledge. An alternative pitch, if you are tired of life, is to launch out left at 3m, go 8m diagonally left and then straight up to the belay.

  3. 25m (20) Chimney then corner. Around roof to second ledge.

  4. 30m (-) Move 6m left and up corner. Alternatively, and much easier, climb the wall directly above the belay. Kim Carrigan, Andrew Thomson 10-12-1974.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Peter Jackson (var). Pitch 1: 2 aids, 2 and 3 all aid, pitch 4 1 aid., 1966

39
23 ** The Edge of Reality Trad 100m

This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.

  1. 21m (21) Climb twin cracks and traverse to corner on right. Up corner, exit left to bolt belay.

  2. 28m (20) Step right around overhang and up to second one. Left and up wall to ceiling. Traverse left and up (dangerous loose flake) then up to next roof. Left to arete. Up to second belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

  3. 24m (15) As for 'Dinosaur Gully' pitch 3.

  4. 30m (23) Thin crack up and right from middle of ledge to corner. Corner to terrace.

FA: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant and pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz, James Falla Easter 1989., 1969

40

A good wall approach to the fantastic 'Dinosaur Gully' DF. However the start is a bit gnarly, the hanging belay is a nuisance, the flake on the second pitch seems dangerous and ... It's good but not as good as might be hoped. Also, the start is wet for a long time as it's subject to seepage from the soak at the top of pitch one of 'Edge of Reality'.

Take some big gear and lots of slings.

Start: 'Flake' pillar about 7m left of 'The Last Act', as for 'The Edge of Reality'.

  1. 20m (15) Up flake pillar, taking care with rock, then tend left up easy orange wall to semi-hanging belay at major break. Belay when you first reach the break as it makes changing over much easier.

  2. 25m (17) Swing up left over pocketed bulge. Once over this move right, up small corner to hollow flake (take care), left along flake then up left to belay below overhang.

  3. 45m (17) Bridge around overhang and continue up to small grassy ledge (belay here if you did a shorter second pitch). Up short corner to roof and crawl through the slot on the right. Climb the crack above in an outrageous position past a series of bulges to a terrace.

FA: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher, 1994

41
15 ** Dinosaur Gully Trad 100m

This is not as good as used to be thought but still a good, old-fashioned climb with good rock and protection. The final pitch is not very good with the direct finish being a vastly better, but harder option. Doing the first pitch of 'The Sloth' would also improve the climb at no change in grade.

Start: Chimney 15m left of 'The Last Act'. Initialled "DG".

  1. 25m (-) Climb a few metres up the cminey and then traverse left to a ledge. Follow the juggy line above to a big ledge.

  2. 24m (-) Go right into the shallow chimney and follow it to below the overhang.

  3. 24m (15) Around bulge and up groove to below roof. Either traverse easily left to short hard corner or move up to roof and hand-traverse left (this option discovered by Chris Baxter).

  4. 28m (-) Walk left and up line on right side of pinnacle and continue up line.

FA: John Fahey and Peter Jackson., 7th Mar

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16 Pterodactyl Trad 30m

An alternative to the scramble off. Also referred to as 'Dinosaur Gully' 'Variant Finish'.

Start: From the eucalypt that overlooks pitch four of 'Dinosaur Gully'

FA: Steve Hains, Bruce Somerfield, 1992

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17 R ** The Sloth / Sloth Trad 89m

This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used. A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.

Include some large gear and slings in the rack.

Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".

  1. 20m (15) Start up the left wall and then follow the steep crack to a big ledge.

  2. 36m (17) The sustained line 5m left of the chimney past an overhang at 30 metres to a big ledge. Take some care with the rock at the start. Protection is adequate but not brilliant.

  3. 33m (17) Climb crack to bulge. Continue straight up steep groove on flakes (original traverses 6 metres left to another groove and goes up that) to top. Take some care with the rock but protection is good.

It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.

FA: Chris Dewhirst and Chris Baxter. Direct on Pitch 3: Jerry Maddox, Jim Nelson., 1978

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16 * The Seventh Lamb Trad 55m

A left-to-right girdle from 'Dinosaur Gully' to 'The Stinger'. Good fun.

Start: From the first belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

  1. 25m (16) Traverse right to a belay on the right arete of 'The Last Act'.

  2. 30m (-) Traverse right to 'The Stinger'. Abseil off bollard or continue up 'The Stinger'.

FA: James McIntosh, Alan Hope, 1993

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23 * The One Night Stand Trad 110m

Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable.

Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.

  1. 30m (13) Up a little and traverse right into corner. Up to major break and traverse left onto ledge.

  2. 24m (23) Boulder thin seam off ledge then up easier ground for a ways to another hard section (old bolts and pegs) then easy to stance and old bolt.

  3. 50m (14) Climb the groove above then move up to base of pinnacle. Up the right side of the pinnacle and up to terrace (as for DG).

FA: Phillip Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill. Freed : Kieran Loughran variously with Allan Hope, Ian Smith, Bill Andrews. Winter., 1984

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20 M1 * Rise and Shine Aid 130m

A Beaman route with an aid point! The start is ordinary but the second pitch looks sensational.

Start: 12 metres left of "One Night Stand" at the left of two cracks just left of overhang.

  1. 25m (-) Left of two cracks, with some vegetation at the start, to ledge and tree on right

  2. 30m (20 M1) Corner, move right to arete and up to ledge. Short corner to overhang (one aid) and steep wall above to ledge on right.

  3. 40m (-) Up lower-angled section to distinctive flake. Above flake follow line on left to terrace.

  4. 12m (18) Finish up "Hypocrite" (originally finished up "Saturday Special")

FA: Tim Beaman, Sylvia Lazarnick, Tony Dignan, 1977

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15 Rameses Trad 130m

Start: At the large flake crack.

  1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

  2. 24m (-) The corner abovce, occasionally on the right wall to a tree on ledge.

  3. 36m (15) Up left to the chimney and follow this to bushy ledge. Now the small corner or the crack on the left.

  4. 40m (-) Scrub then traverse right and climb the chimney.

FA: Laurie Lovelock, Julie Tulloch, Keith Lockwood, Bill Andrews, 1972

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12 Saturday Special Trad 130m

An early climb here but not a classic. Sort of follows the same feature as 'Rameses' with variations.

Start: Start as for 'Rameses'.

  1. 27m (-) Climb the flake-crack past the tree and under a chockstone to another tree.

  2. 24m (-) Left wall of corner for 5 metres then onto right wall and up to tree on ledge.

  3. 12m (-) From right end of ledge move right, up crack then belly-crawl and 3 metres right to belay.

  4. 24m (12) Go 6 metres up crack just left of belay. Step left onto face and up to move right at overhang into chimney. Up to top of chimney.

  5. 15m (-) Corner

  6. 30m (-) Buttress above.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), 29th Apr

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9 R Crock's Crawl Trad 120m

A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.

Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.

  1. 27m (9) The flake-crack past a tree and under the chockstone to another tree.

  2. 21m (9) Traverse left across wall, move around arete, cross a scrubby corner and belay on a ledge below a small roof.

  3. 9m (10) Climb the corner, passing the roof on the left.

  4. 33m (10) The pleasant crack to the terrace. A pointless ring-bolt and chain will be encountered as some point.

  5. 30m (11) The very poorly protected chimney on right (last pitch of Big Chimney) to the next terrace. Scramble off up a gully on the left.

FA: Geoff Shaw and Jack O'Halloran. Chrs Baxter, Clive Parker added the first pitch, 1969

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15 R * Crocks Direct Mixed 97m, 4

This collection of variants to Crocks Crawl offers a fairly direct route up the cliff. There is some poor rock, particularly on the top pitch.

Start: Start at a crack midway between 'Rameses' and Big Chimnney.

  1. 28m (15) Climb to the roof, traverse left and mantleshelf. Climb the overhang then follow the crack (a bit mossy, need traffic) past a tree to ledge below a corner leading to a roof. Chris Baxter, Clive Parker 02-01-1969.

  2. 39m (10) Go left around the roof and climb the pleasant crack to the terrace (combine 2nd and 3rd pitches of Crocks Crawl). A pointless U-bolt and chain will be encountered at some point.

  3. 30m (15) The wall right of the chimney on the right of the terrace. Up awkward groove to sloping ledge then up the centre of the wall past 3 U bolts plus some natural gear. Move back left into the gully after the last U and then up (run-out) to the terrace. U-bolts placed sometime in recent years. Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchel, Steve Craddock April 1964.

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22 R * Miracles in My Pockets Mixed 85m, 1

A sustained route up the wall left of "Rameses". There is some very bad rock in places.

Start: Four metres left of "Rameses". There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.

  1. 35m (22) The centre of the wall past bolt on bulge then steep pockets to belay.

  2. 50m (21) Up the pocketed wall and pull through the bulge immediately left of the ominous block. Step right and follow rightward diagonal flake then straight up via honeycombed, bulging seam. Pull over prominent ironstone extrusion into a small corner. Step left, up wall and finish at top of corner. Walk right to Last Act abseil.

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16 X The Crock Of Roland Trad 39m

This variant is written up separately so that people know not to go near it. A recent (2010) excursion onto it by a Rosea veteran found it pointless and dangerous, on revolting, steep, escapable rock.

Start: Start at the second belay of Crock's Crawl, below the roof.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Daryl Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

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9 R * Big Chimney Trad 100m

What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.

Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.

  1. 24m (11) Up the line to an awkward bulge at 6 metres. There's an ancient peg runner here but good wires just below and a large cam (#4 Camalot just works but #4.5 would be better) makes it redundant. From the stance above pull up the unlikely little arete on the right. Jugs and a finger crack lead back into the line above the grunge. Up to a cool belay behind the huge chockstone.

  2. 22m (11) Chimney straight up from the chockstone. When the chimney widens slightly move in to a thread belay.

  3. 24m (11) Still more chimney to the next chockstones. A recent ascent climbed up to the outside of the chockstones but this was quite insecure until a U-bolt was encountered just below the chockstones. Possibly more secure to climb this section deeper in the chimney. Now easily up to the terrace.

  4. 30m (11) Chimney on the right of the terrace. This does not look very hard but protection is almost non-existent. Alternatively, climb the wall immediately right of this chimney, pitch 3 of 'Crocks Direct', grade 15.

FA: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt). Variant finish : Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchell, Steve Craddock., 1964

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17 St Vitus Dance Trad 87m

Not Rosea's most attractive climb. Vegetated line 4 metres left of 'Big Chimney'.

  1. 21m (17) Cimney-crack to a ledge.

  2. 42m (-) Up corner past large tree and old bolt to chimney. Up chimney until above roof.

  3. 24m (-) Chimney

FA: Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1972

The next two climbs start from the terrace directly above Big Chimney.

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18 * Hypocrite Trad 14m

Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size.

Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete.

FA: Neil Monteith Mike File, 2005

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19 * Travesty Trad 14m

Excellent thin wall climbing with unlikely natural gear. 'Small' wires are useful.

Start: Starts 2m left of 'Hypocrite' just left of the arête.

FA: Mike File Neil Monteith, 2005

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16 * Matador Trad 100m

The first 3 pitches are good, exposed and sustained. The fourth pitch is just a chimney and the last is a way off. The grade 17 variant finish is the best way to complete this fine climb.

Start: About 130 metres left of 'Big Chimney' at a crack leading to a roof at 10 metres. Clear initial M.

  1. 28m (16) Crack to cave below roof. Strenuously over roof, and follow the crack to base of a corner.

  2. 18m (14) Traverse 5 metres right and climb diagonally right up the nose to a thin crack. Up this and then move up for 2 metres on rounded holds. Traverse 6 metres left to below the left of two cracks.

  3. 15m (14) The left crack and then veer left to a stance.

  4. 19m (-) Traverse 6 metres left to an obvious chimney. Up this to a big ledge.

  5. 24m (-) Move the belay 10m to back of the ledge. Climb easy chimney on the left. Better to do the variant finish instead.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Alec Campbell, Daryl Carr (var), 1966

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This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb. Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four. Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, Matthew Pearce, Peter Cody, 2010

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16 Toreador Trad 100m

Several sections of good, sustained climbing. Some rounded sandy rock detracts from the overall quality. Start: 45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress. The climb starts to the L of the buttress where a short section of bushes has to be negotiated to reach the crack [originally graded 13].

  1. 27m (14) Crack to small stance below overhang.

  2. 18m (16) Step right (useless old PR) and up steep groove to finish over a quite awkward bulge.

  3. 27m (16) Tricky crack through bulge to ledge. Step R and up wall on poor rock and protection (as originally led). Or move 2 to 3m L and pick your way up and R to ledge next to gully (as originally seconded, this option protects OK).

  4. 30m (14) Down and L into gully and up crack on opposite wall. A bush bash up and R from the top leads eventually to the track.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tony Amiconi, Julie Tulloch (var), 1972

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10 Spelio Pinnacle Trad 59m

Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot!

Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.

  1. 24m (10) The chimney to above the second constriction

  2. 22m (-) The chimney to an overhang at about 10 metres. Traverse right to the foot of the pinnacle proper.

  3. 13m (-) Bridge up behind the pinnacle to the top. (Descend by reversing this pitch and going down the hole)

FA: Geoff Gledhill, Alan Gledhill (alt), 1968

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13 * Raw Prawn Trad 110m

Tackles some dramatic territory. Some parties have had trouble following the description but the route has recently been repeated and a logical, attractive first pitch description provided.

The topo has been updated to reflect this.

Start: About 60 metres left of 'Spelio Pinnacle' and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight). Start from blackened white gum tree."I can't imagine any sensible modern climber wanting to scramble unroped up the steep dirty wall below the white gum tree [now stunted and blackened by the fires but still alive]" (Phillip Armstrong).

  1. 44m (13) Up easily to tree on large ledge [possible belay], up crack behind tree a few metres then move L into L leading flake line. Follow the flake to a good ledge under the roof in the big R facing corner. ( Original : Climb line and move left to a ledge below a roof.)

  2. 26m (13) Up and right around roof. Traverse left 3 metres below next roof to chimney and up chimney to ledge below another roof.

  3. 30m (-) Step right and go straight up into scrub step out right and up. This pitch is just a way off.

FA: Michael Stone, Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill (var) and Julie Tulloch, 1973

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20 ** Burning Daylight Trad 140m

The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class.

Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.

  1. 13m (15) The little, left-facing corner and left to the main corne.

  2. 43m (20) The corner to the roof and traverse 10 metres left to an exposed stance.

  3. 40m (15) Continue traversing left under the roof (hand traverse at first then large ledge) and up the first possible break from the ledge, a left-slanting chimney. Belay off a chockstone about 10 metres up the chimney

  4. 43m (18) Move out onto the face on the right and traverse right for about 20 metres to the middle of the face. Up the wall to finish through a slot in the final roof.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt)., 1977

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9 to 12 M4 * Melanoma Aid 110m

One of the few worthwhile aid routes in the Grampians, with a huge roof at the very top of the cliff. It is written up with the direct start, which is the best way to do the climb.

The original start (two pitches) came in to the base of pitch four from 45 metres up the gully to the right via mostly easy climbing and a few aid bolts.

It is likely that significant sections of the lower pitches could be freed relatively easily. Using 60 metre ropes could help to run the lower four pitches into two giving a significant time saving on the approach to the roof. Head torches have been found useful in the past. Take 2 bat-hooks and 11 hangers.

The climb is about 750 metres from where the main walking track is left, with the final 400 metres being relatively slow. Expect to take between 45 minutes to an hour-and-a-half from the car with packs.

Start: Below the obvious line leading to the huge roof at the top of the cliff about 150 metres left of 'Burning Daylight' (400 metres left of Big Chimney). Scramble about 10m up onto a block.

  1. 27m (- M4) Move left and up incipient groove to ledge. BB on right.

  2. 40m (12 M3) Step up right (BR) and then left to the foot of a crack. Free up the crack, switching to aid when necessary. Finish with some bolts then free to a big ledge.

  3. 10m (-) Step right and up to next ledge.

  4. 27m (- M3) The crack, mostly aid, to below the roof.

  5. 15m (- M4) The thin crack in the outrageously exposed roof.

FA: Chris Baxter, Clive Parker (var), 1970

FA: Peter McKeand, Michael Stone (alt)., 1971