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Description:© (kieranl)

A good wall approach to the fantastic 'Dinosaur Gully' DF. However the start is a bit gnarly, the hanging belay is a nuisance, the flake on the second pitch seems dangerous and ... It's good but not as good as might be hoped. Also, the start is wet for a long time as it's subject to seepage from the soak at the top of pitch one of 'Edge of Reality'.

Take some big gear and lots of slings.

Start: 'Flake' pillar about 7m left of 'The Last Act', as for 'The Edge of Reality'.

  1. 20m (15) Up flake pillar, taking care with rock, then tend left up easy orange wall to semi-hanging belay at major break. Belay when you first reach the break as it makes changing over much easier.

  2. 25m (17) Swing up left over pocketed bulge. Once over this move right, up small corner to hollow flake (take care), left along flake then up left to belay below overhang.

  3. 45m (17) Bridge around overhang and continue up to small grassy ledge (belay here if you did a shorter second pitch). Up short corner to roof and crawl through the slot on the right. Climb the crack above in an outrageous position past a series of bulges to a terrace.

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: James McIntosh, Wayne Maher, 1994

Location:  

Located in Left Side approx:
Long/Lat: 142.505000,37.193000

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Principal
17 ** ** ACA Route Register
17 ** Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good amazing fun classic scary unprotected pinch vertical

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