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Description:© (kieranl)

Takes some very unlikely territory for the grade. Also, the third pitch got left out of the 1977 Baxter Guide so heavens know what people made of it. It appears that the climb gains the major horizontal break about 25 metres below the top of the cliff on the third pitch and then traverses off left. Some quite experienced parties have had trouble following the route so it's been given a serious flag for now until it is further checked out.

Start: Up the giant staircase, about 37 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Clear initials CC.

  1. 23m (12) Pull through the undercut start and straight up for 5 metres. Move right and up a short, scrubby crack to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up, veering right to a bushy ledge.

  2. 30m (13) Climb the line at the right end of the ledge for a few metres to another ledge. Step out left then head diagonally left up the steep wall with little protection to a ledge. Continue up to a small ledge in a corner (?thread belay). 3. 12m (-) Traverse left about 5 metres and climb up to the large horizontal crack. Belay near small conifer.

  3. 21m (-) Move left then scramble. 'Variant Finish' 9 :

  4. 14m Traverse left to below a corner. 5) 20m The corner. Ascent unknown. Exactly where this goes is unclear.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Party Unknown. Easter., 1960

Location:  

Located in Giant's Staircase approx:
Long/Lat: 142.692333,37.106000

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

13 Principal
8 R ACA Route Register
8 South Eastern Grampians

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Route quality

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