Fine, sustained climbing with an unlikely crux that's a few grades harder than the rest of the climb and a fantastically exposed hand traverse high on the cliff.

Start: Start about 50 metres left of where the track meets the cliff just left of the big tree.

1. 48m (18) Awkward start up indistinct crack and continue up to step left at 17 metres to grey crack. Up this to slabby area.

2. 25m (-) Wander up to ledge 2 metres right of big corner (Bus Stop)

3. 23m (21) Climb towards off-width roof (careful with loose-looking big block)and at 3 metres launch left and up into corner above. Up a couple of tricky moves then traverse right and go up to tree. (If you're so minded, skip the crux by aiding the hideous roof crack instead)

4. 9m (17) Hand traverse right to the prow.

5. 21m (-) Easily up the wall just right of the arete.