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Description:© (kieranl)

Significant as the first climb to tackle the overhangs on this wall but a bizarre approach from high in a tree and a wandering finish mean that it doesn't warrant repeating. The best part of the climb is now done as the second pitch of 'john Barleycorn'.

Start: Start at the tree by 'Martin Eden'.

  1. 50m (14) Climb the tree and branch until able to step onto the rock. Right to pedestal then up wall slightly left the veer right to detached flake. From right end of ledge up steep wall for 7 metres then left to ledge. Up to a small ledge.

  2. 25m (17) Up to roof, hand travers right to nose. Crack to ledge. This is same as pitch 2 of 'John Barleycorn'.

  3. 20m (15) A little right to climb overhang at weakness above BR. Now up a little and traverse a long way right to ledge and tree.

  4. 25m (-) Climb corner behind and exit right. From top of flake climb steep little wall then up more easily


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Michael Stone, 1973


Located in Giant's Staircase approx:
Long/Lat: 142.692333,37.106000

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 ACA Route Register
17 Principal
17 * South Eastern Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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