Sweet Maggots 16

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Better than the name suggests. The first pitch can be done in its own right and would clean up well. This route incorporates 'Showpiece Crack', an obvious feature high on the cliff which looks brilliant from high on the Giant's Staircase and is still good close up.

Start: Below a mossy looking gully/groove just up left from the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

1. 47m (16) Climb the groove, step left and up the delicate face to a tree on the left.

2. 33m (15) Layback up 5 metres, step right around a nose and follow the corner tending slightly right to belay at the beginning of a short chimney or continue a few more metres to the foot of 'Showpiece Crack'.

3. 40m (16) Go up the chimney then up the wide crack ('Showpiece Crack') for 18 metres and step right onto a ledge at its top. Continue easily