Another old route that takes some hostile territory but doesn't get done often these days. Some of the pitches could well be combined.

Start: Below twin cracks on a ledge a few metres above the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

1. 27m (11) Climb the right-hand crack past an ancient piton runner. Move right above the piton and go up to a ledge above a large tree.

2. 24m (-) Climb the corner for 3 metres and traverse left for 12 metres. Move up on small holds and then more easily up and left to a tree.

3. 12m (-) Step right and climb an awkward crack to the next tree.

4. 30m (-) Move up a little to an easy traverse left for 12 metres to a corner. Climb the corner and continue straight up to a bushy ledge. Move left to belay.

5. 33m (-) Move right into the gully that leads to the top. A very poorly protected finish at grade 16 is to climb straight up the rib above the belay. Bernie Lyons 1963.