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Another old route that takes some hostile territory but doesn't get done often these days. Some of the pitches (esp. 2&3) could well be combined.

Start: Below twin cracks on a ledge a few metres above the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 27m (11) Climb the right-hand crack past an ancient piton runner. Move right above the piton and go up to a ledge above a large tree.

  2. 24m (11) Climb the corner for 3 metres and traverse left for 12 metres. Move up on small holds and then more easily up and left to a tree.

  3. 12m (10) Step right and climb an awkward crack to the next tree.

  4. 30m (11) Move up a little to an easy traverse left for 12 metres to a corner. Climb the corner and continue straight up to a bushy ledge. Move left to belay.

  5. 33m (-) Move right into the gully that leads to the top. A very poorly protected finish at grade 16 is to climb straight up the rib above the belay. Bern Lyons 1963.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: George Glover & Greg Lovejoy, 2 Apr 1961


Lat/Long: 37.106000,142.692333

Route Grade Citations

11 Community registered grade
Kieran Loughran
11 ACA Route Register
11 South Eastern Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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