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Description:© (kieranl)

Another great route from Tim Beaman. It is unlikely that anyone has repeated the route exactly as climbed, with the original third pitch culminating in a lunge for a hold while a good 6 metres above the last gear! Mercifully there is an alternative!

Start: Start left of 'Nyingtong' at short wall below buttress split by crack, 10 metres right of where the walking track meets the cliff.

  1. 25m (16) Wall to small ledge, short, flared chimney then hand crack to large ledge

  2. 40m (19) Overhang then steep layback above. Go up more easily to top of easy-angled section.

  3. 35m (19) Up and right to the right of two steep corners. Corner past overhang to ledge then unprotectable off-width corner which all parties since the first ascent have avoided on right at grade 16.

  4. 20m (18) Continue in line


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Tim Beaman, Bryan Kennedy (alt) Gary Wills & Dick Evans did the variant on the third pitch., 11 Mar 1977


Located in Giant's Staircase approx:
Lat/Long: -37.187392,142.500541

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
- Pocket RockGUIDE: The Rock and New Climbs
19 South Eastern Grampians
19 * ACA Route Register
19 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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