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Description:© (jgoding)

An historic route that offers great climbing. It's unfortunate that the first pitch is much harder than the rest of the climb.

Many pitons from the first ascent are still in place but should not be relied on. Pullling on a few pegs on the first pitch can drop the grade to 19, M1

Start: The crack on the front of the buttress. Faint initials TB.

  1. 24m (23) Climb the line to the steepening which can be tackled either directly by a variant just to left, by starting up the left and reaching back right or by aiding.

  2. 20m (18) Step up right and up the wall. Step right to arete. Either go up for 10 metres to a ledge or step left and go up a groove to the same ledge.

  3. 24m (19) The thin groove directly above then move left and up the line bristling with more old pegs. Finish up groove. To add some more excitement you could try resting on one of the pegs to see if it would hold body weight.

  4. 15m (14) Traverse 3 metres right and go up to a ledge beside a large burnt-out tree. Either belay or continue up the last pitch. or 4a. 21m 15 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Continue up the awkward crack and move right past a tree. or 4b. 25m 14 Go straight up the excellent corner-crack above to a ledge. Move around right past a wobbly block (? source of recent rockfall) into an attractive corner and follow this.

  5. 33m (-) Easy chimney or finish up 'Scarface'. Or 5a. 9 Up the chimney for 8 metres then left onto the arete. Exposed climbing to the final wall then move right and finish up the chimney left of the original route. Chris Baxter and Chris Dewhirst 25-08-1974.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Herbert Schlipper, Greg Lovejoy (alt) Easter, 1963

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Principal
23 * * ACA Route Register
23 or 19M1 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
23 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
23 *** South Eastern Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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