Section navigation

Description:© (jgoding)

Absolutely fantastic. The hard first pitch corner can be a show-stopper and the third pitch arete is awesomely exposed and not brilliantly protected.

Start: Beautiful corner just right of 'Tourist Buttress'. Clear initial A.

  1. 33m (21) Corner which gets harder as the overhang is approached. Up the V-groove on the right side of the overhang and either escape left and up to ledge or continue up groove to ledge.

  2. 9m (-) Diagonally up left and around arete to small stance.

  3. 40m (21) Follow twin thin cracks up the front of the buttress. Protection is OK but not brilliant. Take care at the top of this pitch where loose blocks have been encountered where a huge block has recently fallen off.

  4. 35m (-) Easily up lefthand line or do 'Scarface' (20) which is just to left.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bruno Zielke & Chris Dewhirst (var), 1969


Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

21 Principal
21 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
21 *** *** ACA Route Register
21 *** South Eastern Grampians
21 *** Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 92%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords


Learn about creating circuits.