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Description:

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.

Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

  1. 33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then: The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton. Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.

  2. 24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

  3. 26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.

  4. 41m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), 1969

    Peg for aid on third pitch

  • First Free Ascent: Kevin Lindorff, 1976

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Lat/Long: -37.185432,142.498387

Route Grade Citations

19 Community registered grade
19 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
19 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
19 *** *** ACA Route Register
19 *** South Eastern Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed solid overhung crux sustained super beautiful fun nice perfect fantastic good brilliant great classic superb awesome scary runout tricky steep crap bail crazy crack

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