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Description:

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes really help, especially if you want to run some pitches together.

Start: Left facing flake-crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge at 12 metres (manky old PR). There are two ways to go here. The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then step right past it. Good climbing but there is no gear above the sloping ledge until the roof is reached and it may make this pitch 19. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang (there used to a peg somewhere about here). Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above the overhang. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right (a large wire flicked up into the corner of the next pitch helps with the belay here).

24m (18) Beautiful thin corner to small ledge on right. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

26m (19) Step down and follow obvious hand-traverse line out left for 4 or 5 metres to daunting corner (there are actually 3 corners above the traverse - this is the middle one). Up corner and past a peg runner. Exit left above overlap and up juggy wall to long ledge below overhang.

41m (17) Take the steep left-facing corner left of the overhang until it eases and up crack to top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Kevin Lindorff, 1976

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst, Bruno Zielke (1 aid on pitch 3), Mar 1969

    Peg for aid on third pitch

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 *** *** ACA Route Register
19 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
19 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
19 *** South Eastern Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 83%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed crux sustained fantastic brilliant classic nice awesome scary steep crap bail

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