- Height: 120m
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 1
- Description:© (kieranl)
Brittle when wet
There's lots of good climbing here from the ground all the way to the top. The original route included substantial bits of 'Debutante' and some of 'Requiem'. For a comprehensible route which people might actually climb bits of Toff Direct and 'Requiem' 'Direct Finish' have been grafted on.
Start: Below 'Debutante Direct Start'.
20m (19) Climb the thin crack just left of 'Debutante Direct Start' to join 'Debutante' at 12 metres. Up to belay where 'Debutante' moves right. A better first pitch may be to do 'Debutante' DS and move left at the top to belay.
20m (19) 'Steep' corner finishing up groove on right.
30m (-) Right wall to bushy ledge just above. Left to corner and up to below big corner of 'Debutante'.
35m (17) Climb up left, across left wall of Debutante's big corner, crossing another corner (Toff 'Direct Finish' 22) to prow. The exposed crack above. Original pitch went up 'Debutante' to big block and then traversed left to pitch 5.
20m (-) Corner.
First Ascent: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone, Rick White. Requiem Direct Finish (pitches 4, 5) Mike Law, Chris Baxter 4-03-1978 Toff Direct (pitches 1, 3) Law & Baxter 22-03-1980., 1978
Located in Main Cliff approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|19||South Eastern Grampians|
|19||Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update|
|19 *||ACA Route Register|
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