Description:© (jgoding)

Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Genrally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.

Start: Start up a ripply wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.

  1. 24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.

  2. 36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.

  3. 15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.

  4. 27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traveres right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).

  5. 15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Stone, Ian Guild., Apr 1966

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Principal
14 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
14 *** South Eastern Grampians
15 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
15 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tough hard pleasant fun nice good amazing great exciting classic awesome scary exposed steep flake easy rest traverse

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