Section navigation

Description:© (jgoding)

Brilliant climb taking the corner systems marking the right side of the great wall right of 'Tourist Buttress'.

Generally well protected but there are some large apparently loose or detached blocks at crucial points.

Start: Start up a ripply wall 3 metres right of Last Rites.

CAUTION: Anchor at the top of pitch 1 uses stainless bash-in bolts, and should probably not be trusted, especially when belaying a leader up pitch 2, as an upward or outward pull could rip the bolts out.

  1. 24m (12) Up wall for 12 metres then traverse right to corner. Climb corner to block and traverse right to ledge and chain anchor. Contemplate that this ledge used to be occupied by a large tree that people belayed and abseiled from.

  2. 36m (15) Climb the sustained corner, taking care with a large loose block. Continue straight up to belay on a pinnacle. A belay is also possible a few metres lower than this.

  3. 15m (13) Continue up to a ledge and traverse left below the overhang to below a big corner.

  4. 27m (14) Up the corner, moving into the right hand line at about 15 metres. Continue up and make your way over an huge, hopefully jammed block and make an intimidating traverse right to an exposed, small stance. Belay here or move a few metres higher to a better ledge (watch the rope drag though).

  5. 15m (11) From the tiny stance, step right, then up for 5 metres. Traverse left and finish up left groove.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Stone & Ian Guild., 1966


Located in Main Cliff approx:
Lat/Long: -37.185432,142.498387

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
14 *** South Eastern Grampians
15 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
15 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tough hard pleasant fun cool nice good brilliant amazing great exciting classic awesome scary tricky exposed committing steep flake easy rest roof adventurous traverse

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Debutante (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.