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Description

Brilliant climb. The first ascent, done without bolts, saw Glenn Tempest braced on a small ledge without a belay holding multiple falls by Marty Beare as he seconded the technically difficult first pitch. Descent used to be by abseil from the tree atop the second pitch but it is not known if that is still safe since the fires. Slings are needed for the abseil if the tree is safe. Probably the best alternative way off is to climb up to the base of Debutante's fourth pitch and finish up 'The Toff' Direct (22). The belay and protection bolts need updating.

Start: Start 20 metres right of 'Debutante Direct Start', 4 metres left of 'Heretic'.

  1. 30m (23) Up left to crack and climb it. Step left and climb cracked bulge. Traveres left at horizontals and up arete to ledge and single bolt belay.

  2. 30m (23) Up right arete with hard moves past a poor bolt (poor nuts nearby). Right and up to big ledge.

© (kieranl)

Ethic

inherited from Grampians

Route history

Apr 1983

First Ascent: Glenn Tempest & Marty Beare, Apr 1983

Location

Lat/Long: -37.18543, 142.49839

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

23 Community registered grade
23 Grampians Selected Climbs
23 South Eastern Grampians
23 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
23 *** ACA Route Register
23 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

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Don't Bother
Crap

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