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Description

Great sustained second pitch but it eases off dramatically after that. A better and completely independent climb can be had with the variant start and finish.

The original top pitches are not very enjoyable and pass through complex territory with many options leading into loose and poorly protected country. There are no safe abseil trees at this level.

Start: Start at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Used to have a faint inital S but couldn't locate this recently (2013).

  1. 24m (15) Up the crack and through steepening. Up to ledge on the left. Traverse left a couple of metres to good anchors. This is also the first pitch of 'Heretic'.

  2. 36m (16) Traverse 5 metres left to below a crack. Up sustained crack and step right below a bulge to a ledge. Delicate wall for 12 metres (small wires and cams needed). Traverse left to a corner, up it for 5 metres, step left and steeply up to terrace..

  3. 39m (11) Move to the RH end of the ledge and up broken corners heading L ward to the foot of a large steep gully/groove. Up the RH side of this to foot of chimney.

  4. 36m (10) Chimney

© (kieranl)

Ethic

inherited from Grampians

Route history

Mar 2066

First Ascent: Chris Davis & Ian Guild, Mar 2066

Location

Lat/Long: 37.18733, 142.50033

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

16 Community registered grade
15 Grampians Selected Climbs
15 South Eastern Grampians
15 ** ACA Route Register

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67% from 6 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Flash

Comment keywords

fun

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