Description:© (jgoding)

Climbs don't come any better than this. Sustained quality climbing all the way but be warned that it also has its share of loose blocks, poor rock and spaced protection.

Start: Start as for 'Speculation', at line leading into substantial left-facing corner about 25 metres right of 'Debutante', 4 metres left of a large tree which has recently fallen over, 8 metres left of the clear initial D marking the start of 'Diane'. Faint initial S.

  1. 24m (15) Up the line and through the bulge. Continue easily to a ledge and move left along it a couple of metres to good anchors.

  2. 23m (17) Move back right and climb the sustained corner to a sloping ledge.

  3. 24m (17) Move 3 metres left and climb the diagonal flake leading back right into the corner. Steeply up the corner past loose blocks to ledge on the left.

  4. 23m (17) From top of detached block pull onto steep juggy wall and up thin crack-line. Up and right to small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  5. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.At the start of this pitch it is tempting to move up right to what loooks like an easy escape. Don't do it! The top-outs that way are hard and horrible.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, Feb 1969

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

16 ** South Eastern Grampians
17 Principal
17 *** *** ACA Route Register
17 *** Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained brilliant amazing great rest

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