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Description:© (kieranl)

A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.

'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.

Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.

  1. 41m (22) Easy corner until half=way to roof then step right and climb bold arete to roof. Break through overhang using crack just left of smooth groove, barely keepng out of 'Heretic'. Traverse right on lip of overhang then up and left up wall to shallow corner just right of 'Heretic' pitch two. Shallow corner and rib above. Move right around arete and up thin crack to ledge (original second belay of Diane).

  2. 20m (-) Move right and up 'Diane' for 3 metres. Step right to arete and go up into the next corner right of 'Diane' and up this to stance on left.

  3. 35m (-) Up line above, with odd formation at 3 metres. Step left and up face and steep wall into hanging corner. Up corner to roof. Exit right. (Diane Super Direct 35 19 From second belay of 'Diane', swing around overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above the belay. Up Corner to belay. Easier ground to top. Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedunary 14-02-1998)

  4. 10m (-) Up

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran (var).., Mar 1984

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 Principal
22 * * ACA Route Register
22 * South Eastern Grampians
22 ** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update

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Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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