Ashes to Ashes 22

Log ascent

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A bit contrived at the start but still a good route.

'Diane' Super Direct (19) by Paul Badenoch appears to be largely a repeat of pitch 3 of this climb but starting a bit more to the left. Description is reproduced in pitch 3. Repeat ascents may clear up whether there are 1 or 2 lines here.

Start: Start 1.5 metres right of 'Heretic'.

1. 41m (22) Easy corner until half=way to roof then step right and climb bold arete to roof. Break through overhang using crack just left of smooth groove, barely keepng out of 'Heretic'. Traverse right on lip of overhang then up and left up wall to shallow corner just right of 'Heretic' pitch two. Shallow corner and rib above. Move right around arete and up thin crack to ledge (original second belay of Diane).

2. 20m (-) Move right and up 'Diane' for 3 metres. Step right to arete and go up into the next corner right of 'Diane' and up this to stance on left.

3. 35m (-) Up line above, with odd formation at 3 metres. Step left and up face and steep wall into hanging corner. Up corner to roof. Exit right. (Diane Super Direct 35 19 From second belay of 'Diane', swing around overhang and head for bottomless corner directly above the belay. Up Corner to belay. Easier ground to top. Paul Badenoch, Sonja Klebe, Brett Sedunary 14-02-1998)

4. 10m (-) Up