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Description

Another brilliant climb with a desperate crux on the frist pitch followed by an absolutely sublime second pitch. Sharing the top pitch and a half with 'Heretic' doesn't detract from it.

Start: Start 8 metres right of 'Heretic', about 33 metres right of 'Debutante' just right of a large tree that has fallen over. Clear initial D.

  1. 32m (18) Up easy crack then step up and right and up hard groove through overhang. Above go up then left more easily to ledge below main corner.

  2. 40m (17) Up fantastic corner until it eases at about 24 metres (belay possible). Step right then up for a bit before moving back into the line. Up to a good ledge on the left.

  3. 25m (17) Up weakness in overhangs above and veer left up easy, poorly protected face to left end of overlap. Now continue as for 'Heretic' up small, bottomless left-facing corner. Steeply up this, dubious rock, then move left and up to a ledge.

  4. 23m (16) Up, then slightly left to left-facing corner which leads to the top.

© (kieranl)

Ethic

inherited from Grampians

Route history

Mar 2068

First Ascent: Phillip Stranger, Phillip Gledhill. They wandered way off to the left from halfway up pitch 2, the route as described was done by Bruno Zielke & Gordon Talbett January 1970., Mar 2068

Location

Lat/Long: -37.18543, 142.49839

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Community registered grade
17 South Eastern Grampians
18 Grampians Selected Climbs
18 *** ACA Route Register

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

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Crap

Overall quality 78% from 34 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Flash

Comment keywords

crux hard magic super beautiful fun cool nice amazing great awesome scary bail chimney roof traverse crack

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