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Description:© (jgoding)

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane'. Faint initials MC. To the left, 'Diane' has clear initial D and just right are clear initials KK.

  1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall. Some parties avoid this belay and combine the first two pitches. Rope drag can be a big problem if this is done.

  2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

  3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

  4. 21m (10) Traverse 3 metres right the up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right.

  5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt), Mar 1961

Location:  

Located in Main Cliff approx:
Long/Lat: 142.501925,-37.189975

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 Principal
11 *** Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
11 *** South Eastern Grampians
12 *** *** ACA Route Register
12 *** Grampians Selected Climbs

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Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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