Route in Mixed Climb

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
11 Mixed Climb

This is the climb that puts the "F" back into grade 12. 'Steep' and sustained and requiring route-finding ability. Pay close attention to the description especially on the third and fourth pitches. Pitches 1 & 2 are best combined because of the poor belay options but great care will need to be taken with drag with lots of slings required.

Start: The line 6 metres right of 'Diane' which is clearly initialled D. To There are no longer usable initials at the base of climb, but just to the right are clear initials KK.

  1. 24m (12) Climb the line which leads into a steep corner. Up this until it eases to a small stance below a crack on the right wall.

  2. 24m (11) This pitch is not as well protected as the rest of the climb. Up to the foot of a small flaring chimney where there is a useless old peg. Go 2 metres up chimney then boldly traverse right for 5 metres. Go up past another useless old peg to a good ledge. There is a large dead tree in this vicinity, don't belay on it.

  3. 20m (10) On up the line for 15 metres (do not go too high) then step right to the foot of a corner.

  4. 21m (11) Traverse 3 metres right then up scrubby gully to a ledge in the corner. Steeply up corner and belay on the right. Not a great pitch.

  5. 31m (9) Climb up wall for 5 metres and then go right into obvious crack which veers up right.

FA: George Glover & Greg Lovejoy (alt), 1961

Trad 120m, 5 Grampians

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