Lovely face climbing, especially with the new start. It's a good idea to reserve two #1 (Red) and one #2(Gold) Camalots or equivalent for above the bolts.
Start below the tree at the start of 'Shadrach'.
Up immediately left of the tree (originally past right side of tree). Move out right on the horizontal tree-trunk to BR. Climb face right of crack past another BR to tree belay and abseil.
Loose blocks, old bolts and pitons (yum, yum). Some of the rock on the second pitch has the appearance and consistency of granulated sugar.
Start: Below left-facing corner with faded initial S
24m (14) Steeply up past the right side of the tree. Then the crack on the right wall of the corner. Dirty.
27m (15) Traverse diagonally left for 6 metres above orange wall of corner. Climb wall, terrible rock, to grassy ledge (?peg). Traverse back into corner and climb it, laybacking loose block, to ledge. Old bolt belay.
9m (-) Layback up corner left of bolt to roof. Hand traverse left to ledge.
Great climbing up an attractive orange groove seven metres left of 'Shadrach', even better with the direct finish.
43m. Start at thin crack, then up and delicately into corner (protection from RP's and small wires, did they have those in '67!?). At the top of pitch one (there's no gear for a belay), instead of traversing R across loose wall, mantle L (no protection) and straight up to attractive flake. Up this, then move out to L and up lovely grey arete to belay in pod.
7m, up to Tree and 50m abseil.
Independent finish added (climbed in one pitch) by Goshen Watts, 2018.
Lovely first pitch but then deteriorates a bit though quite sustained and not well protected on pitch 2. Have given it a star for the first pitch. This was the last of the climbs put up at Rosea by the Dewhirst/Zielke team from 1969-70.
Start: Start as for 'Gillian'.
30m (15) Up the corner for 6m, move 2m left then up the wall to ledge.
36m (16R) Diagonally left for 10m then right and up to a large, bushy ledge below a clean off-width corner. It is thought that repeats of this climb have gone too far left on this pitch and ended up at the smooth corners at the beginning of the final pitch of Renate.
18m (16) The corner.
FA:Bruno Zielke, Chris Dewhirst (alt) & Fred Langenhorst, 1970
Savage looking corner leads into overhanging, undercut crack. Looks very dramatic and with lovely rock but first pitch has poor protection and the third pitch deteriorates. Probably worth a star but needs a repeat by a sufficiently strong climber.
Start: Smooth wall below a steep left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Ma Cherie'.
16m (22) Short fierce wall into corner. Halfway up this corner to the roof pull dramatically out to the right arete and up to a small stance.
22m (-) Steup, traverse left to short corner capped by overhang: turn this on left. 'Steep' crack to ledge on right.
32m (-) Scrub, short chimney, step right and up (to) hard corner.
20m (-) Corner (suspect that this is the middle of three corners, but could be right-hand. Left one is 'Renate', right one (16) has been done on a repeat of Ma Cherie )
Wandering route starting up 'Cry Freedom' and finishing up what are probably the last two pitches of 'Royal Blues'. Has a hard start and finish but is unlikely to be popular.
Start as for 'Cry Freedom'
20m (19) Climb Cry Freedom for 5 metres, traverse 2 metres left then up weakness for 4 metres (difficult gear). Traverse 2 metres left to rest. Up easily to horizontal break and small overhang below where wall steepens. Up weakness above to horizontal break and tiny stance.
25m Up wall above then veer up 2 metres left to weakness. Climb this, over bulge, then up right into small corner which leads to stance below roof. Beware of large detached blocks at top of this pitch.
20m Traverse 4 metres right to large flake. From top of flake, go 2 metres left then up seam to bushy ledge.
45m Walk left for 25 metres on ledge to where it is much wider and clear of scrub. Climb attractive corners above to stance.
20m (19) Crack above to cracked overhang. Surmount this with difficulty and finish up corner.
Wandering and serious for the grade. The start is unattractive and overall it's not very appealing.
Start: Start at the left end of the grotty wall left of the big overhang (front of buttress down right from "Vee Wee").
25m (-) Go up 3 metres and traverse right to a tree (a steep grade 15 direct start climbs the corner to the right). Move up more steeply, veering left into a small chimney. Traverse right from a chockstone and go up to a ledge.
21m (-) Step down and continue right into a corner. Up a little then right along a ledge for 7 metres to a weakness which is climbed for 6 metres. Move right again.
12m (-) Traverse right to just past a bush.
23m (-) 'Steep' climbing above the bush leads to a large bushy ledge just right of a chimney.
23m (10) Climb the chimney to a large ledge and continue up the corner on the left for 5 metres. 'Steep', strenuous climbing on dubious holds leads to a large, scrubby ledge.
21m (-) Climb 6 metres up the flake-crack on the clean wall left of the scrubby area. Step left and go up to a forest. Walk right to a corner.
33m (-) Line of weakness, veering right, to the top.
Wanders too much and crux is harder and more poorly protected than the rest of the climb.
Start: Start as for 'Vee Wee'.
30m (14) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) (this is a for Vee Wee) and exit right to a ledge (this pitch same as for Bad Moon Rising)
35m (17) Traverse easily right to the overhanging arete which is climbed on jugs to a small ledge. Up a few metres on rounded, mossy rock and traverse left to the arete which is climbed to a small stance.
30m (-) Go up to the roof above a yellow block. Veer up left on the arete above to a goood, large ledge.
20m (-) Straight up to terrace.
30m (-) Short wall and finish up chimney-crack on the right.
Used to be considered some sort of classic but it's not much fun. The exit from pitch two is not for the stout of body.
Start: Below huge line festooned with moss and rotten rock. There is a wide crack in the right wall.
27m (15) Scramble up to wide crack in right wall. Up this to ledge then face above (old PR) and exit left to bushy ledge.
27m (16) Up the main line and move up right around roof. Crawl up into cave and squeeze through hole to terrace.
42m (13) Move up to the chimney above and up for 15 metres to broad ledge. Finish up the chimney. This pitch looks as though it has a lot in common with the finish of The "Stinger" but I can't clearly remember it.
Good climbing out on the buttress rather than in the dank chimneys. The route is now considered grade 20, but it does relent somewhat after the start.
Start: Line up buttress just left of "Vee Wee"
25m (20) Line then right and bulging flake. Step right to belay.
28m (18) Up and L on lovely flake system (poor pro). Around the arete, finishing up thin crack on front of buttress
20m (18) Up on block then crack in orange wall. The final wide section can be avoided by going up left on flakes. This pitch was later written up be Peter Steane as a variant pitch to Stinger. He used the flakes out left to finish which may have been new ground.
22m (17) Up from belay, then move R and climb middle of grey buttress on fantastic rock.
Good adventure with the well protected crux right at the start. Good adventure but the first pitch crux is now very mossy. There is no way it can be climbed free at 15 in its current state [but it is easy to pull up on a good bit of gear or 2 and avoid that section] Well worth the effort.
Start: The major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee'.
36m (15) Easily up to a dirty, technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney.
12m (13) The chimney and belay above the hole (or continue up next pitch).
21m (13) The crack above, right across the top of a thin buttress (passing below a juggy, overhanging crack). Traverse right above the terrace and climb the rib entering the gully(old piton).
33m (15) V-chimney to terrace and up steep chimney to top. Alternatively, the original finish : when on terrace, walk 10m right and belay. Go 3m up chimney, right on ledges and up over prow.
FA:Fred Kitchener, Peter Jackson & John Fahey. Freed: Peter Jackson, 1964
A direct finish to 'The Stinger' in a magnificent situation but with some poor rock and protection.
Start: As for 'The Stinger' (the major left-facing corner about 10 metres left of 'Vee Wee').
36m (15) Easily up to a technical, well-protected layback section then on up the corner to a ledge below a steep chimney. This is as for pitch 1 of 'The Stinger'.
12m (-) The chimney and belay above the hole. As for Pitch 2 of 'The Stinger'.
30m (16) Left to corner and up it to terrace. This is sustained, runout in places and probably dirty.
30m (16) Steeply up front of recessed buttress. Finish up chimney. Not sure exactly what this corresponds to.
Another finish is to take a slabby, poorly protected groove up left to a chimney (may be the same chimney referred to just above). Up the chimney and exit right near the top. Robyn Storer, Kieran Loughran 09-1981.
The early pitches look good and are reputed to have poor protection but things deteriorate higher up. It is thought that the short bolt ladder at the top of pitch 1 has not been freed. The route is described as done free. It might be advisable to rationalise the pitches a bit. Maybe extend pitch 1 a few metres to the ledge and then run pitches 2 and 3 together.
Start: About 30 metres left of "The Stinger" at the clear initials CC
15m (18) Climb thin crack until 3 metres below old bolt then traverse 4 metres right to stance (original continues direct on aid to ledge and then moves right along ledge to join pitch 2).
29m (21) Continue right to a left-facing corner and climb it to a ledge a few metres higher (original route joins from left). Up flake-crack and wall above. Go diagonally up left, then traverse 8 metres left to single dubious BB below a wide groove. It would be much safer to continue up next pitch.
15m (-) Groove to ledge.
22m (-) Up right to ledge. Traverse 12 metres left and climb bushy corner.
14m (-) Corner to ledge, step left and over block to terrace.
42m (-) Scrub then chimney. Alternatively, do the last pitch of "National Acrobat", just to the right or abseil from the top of "The Last Act", just to the left.
This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.
21m (21) Climb twin cracks and traverse to corner on right. Up corner, exit left to bolt belay.
28m (20) Step right around overhang and up to second one. Left and up wall to ceiling. Traverse left and up (dangerous loose flake) then up to next roof. Left to arete. Up to second belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.
24m (15) As for 'Dinosaur Gully' pitch 3.
30m (23) Thin crack up and right from middle of ledge to corner. Corner to terrace.
FA:Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant, pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz & James Falla Easter 1989., 1969
A good wall approach to the fantastic 'Dinosaur Gully' DF. However the start is a bit gnarly, the hanging belay is a nuisance, the flake on the second pitch seems dangerous and ... It's good but not as good as might be hoped. Also, the start is wet for a long time as it's subject to seepage from the soak at the top of pitch one of 'Edge of Reality'.
Take some big gear and lots of slings.
Start: 'Flake' pillar about 7m left of 'The Last Act', as for 'The Edge of Reality'.
20m (15) Up flake pillar, taking care with rock, then tend left up easy orange wall to semi-hanging belay at major break. Belay when you first reach the break as it makes changing over much easier.
25m (17) Swing up left over pocketed bulge. Once over this move right, up small corner to hollow flake (take care), left along flake then up left to belay below overhang.
45m (17) Bridge around overhang and continue up to small grassy ledge (belay here if you did a shorter second pitch). Up short corner to roof and traverse right to the arete. Climb the crack above in an outrageous position past a series of bulges to a terrace.
This is not as good as used to be thought but still a good, old-fashioned climb with good rock and protection. The final pitch is not very good with the direct finish being a vastly better, but harder option. Doing the first pitch of 'The Sloth' would also improve the climb at no change in grade.
Start: Chimney 15m left of 'The Last Act'. Initialled "DG".
25m (-) Climb a few metres up the cminey and then traverse left to a ledge. Follow the juggy line above to a big ledge.
24m (-) Go right into the shallow chimney and follow it to below the overhang.
24m (15) Around bulge and up groove to below roof. Either traverse easily left to short hard corner or move up to roof and hand-traverse left (this option discovered by Chris Baxter).
28m (-) Walk left and up line on right side of pinnacle and continue up line.
This fine line used to have a reputation as some sort of horror-show with poor rock and protection. This has seen the climb get little attention. Jerry Maddox enhanced the climb's poor image by adding a direct finish that was characterised by dirt and loose flakes. However recent ascents have established that the route is a ripper, especially if the maligned direct finish (as described) is used.
A sustained, demanding climb that should be on everyone's Rosea tick-list.
Include some large gear and slings in the rack.
Start: The chimney 15m left of "The Last Act". Initialled "DG".
20m (15) Start up the left wall and then follow the steep crack to a big ledge.
36m (17) The sustained line 5m left of the chimney past an overhang at 30 metres to a big ledge. Take some care with the rock at the start. Protection is adequate but not brilliant.
33m (17) Climb crack to bulge. Continue straight up steep groove on flakes (original traverses 6 metres left to another groove and goes up that) to top. Take some care with the rock but protection is good.
It was thought that combining the good first two pitches of 'The Sloth' with the DG DF would give a really great route. However, the linkup is contrived and difficult and it is much better to do 'Sloth' with it's own direct finish.
FA:Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. Direct on Pitch 3: Jerry Maddox & Jim Nelson., 1978
Mostly easy climbing on good rock with two short bouldery sections on pitch two. Originally heavily aided on all pitches in wet conditions and not finished in daylight. Some parties have descended by a 50m abseil from the old bolt at the top of pitch two but this is not advisable.
Start: About 30m left of 'Dinosaur Gully' (faded initials ONS) at a weakness below an overhang.
30m (13) Up a little and traverse right into corner. Up to major break and traverse left onto ledge.
24m (23) Boulder thin seam off ledge then up easier ground for a ways to another hard section (old bolts and pegs) then easy to stance and old bolt.
50m (14) Climb the groove above then move up to base of pinnacle. Up the right side of the pinnacle and up to terrace (as for DG).
FA:Phillip Gledhill, Geoff Gledhill. Freed : Kieran Loughran variously with Allan Hope, Ian Smith & Bill Andrews. Winter., 1984
A very indirect start to a major line. Originally the third pitch was considered the crux but, as with so many of these old routes, some horror-show unprotected chimney sections went totally unremarked. Perhaps modern climbers are just wimps.
Start: Start at the large flake-crack as for 'Rameses'.
27m (9) The flake-crack past a tree and under the chockstone to another tree.
21m (9) Traverse left across wall, move around arete, cross a scrubby corner and belay on a ledge below a small roof.
9m (10) Climb the corner, passing the roof on the left.
33m (10) The pleasant crack to the terrace. A pointless ring-bolt and chain will be encountered as some point.
30m (11) The very poorly protected chimney on right (last pitch of Big Chimney) to the next terrace. Scramble off up a gully on the left.
FA:Geoff Shaw, Jack O'Halloran. Chrs Baxter & Clive Parker added the first pitch, 1969
This collection of variants to Crocks Crawl offers a fairly direct route up the cliff. There is some poor rock, particularly on the top pitch.
Start: Start at a crack midway between 'Rameses' and Big Chimnney.
28m (15) Climb to the roof, traverse left and mantleshelf. Climb the overhang then follow the crack (a bit mossy, need traffic) past a tree to ledge below a corner leading to a roof. Chris Baxter, Clive Parker 02-01-1969.
39m (10) Go left around the roof and climb the pleasant crack to the terrace (combine 2nd and 3rd pitches of Crocks Crawl). A pointless U-bolt and chain will be encountered at some point.
30m (15) The wall right of the chimney on the right of the terrace. Up awkward groove to sloping ledge then up the centre of the wall past 3 U bolts plus some natural gear. Move back left into the gully after the last U and then up (run-out) to the terrace. U-bolts placed sometime in recent years. Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchel, Steve Craddock April 1964.
A sustained route up the wall left of "Rameses". There is some very bad rock in places.
Start: Four metres left of "Rameses". There is a cairn of rocks leaning against a tree.
35m (22) The centre of the wall past bolt on bulge then steep pockets to belay.
50m (21) Up the pocketed wall and pull through the bulge immediately left of the ominous block. Step right and follow rightward diagonal flake then straight up via honeycombed, bulging seam. Pull over prominent ironstone extrusion into a small corner. Step left, up wall and finish at top of corner. Walk right to Last Act abseil.
What can you say? It's a big chimney, a major geological feature. The second pitch is truly awesome. Most modern climbers will find the crux to be the poorly protected chimney sections rather than the well-protected first pitch. This has traditionally been graded 9 but, as with many old Rosea routes, it is much harder than routes of that grade at 'Arapiles'.
Start: Find the landmark chimney, about 60 metres left of 'Dinosaur Gully', 20 metres left of 'Rameses'. There are faint initials BC on the left wall but if you need these to positively identify the climb you should go home.
24m (11) Up the line to an awkward bulge at 6 metres. There's an ancient peg runner here but good wires just below and a large cam (#4 Camalot just works but #4.5 would be better) makes it redundant. From the stance above pull up the unlikely little arete on the right. Jugs and a finger crack lead back into the line above the grunge. Up to a cool belay behind the huge chockstone.
22m (11) Chimney straight up from the chockstone. When the chimney widens slightly move in to a thread belay.
24m (11) Still more chimney to the next chockstones. A recent ascent climbed up to the outside of the chockstones but this was quite insecure until a U-bolt was encountered just below the chockstones. Possibly more secure to climb this section deeper in the chimney. Now easily up to the terrace.
30m (11) Chimney on the right of the terrace. This does not look very hard but protection is almost non-existent. Alternatively, climb the wall immediately right of this chimney, pitch 3 of 'Crocks Direct', grade 15.
FA:George Glover, Greg Lovejoy (alt). Variant finish : Greg Lovejoy, Fred Anchell & Steve Craddock., 1964
Nice wall climbing on grit like rock. This route had four un-glued u-bolts in place that were removed by hand during the onsight ascent. Very good trad is available all the way up this climb. Bring a full rack to #3 SLCD size.
Start: Starts at small orange corner with tiny roof above that sits directly below a rounded arete.
This is a fitting finish to this long overlooked climb.
Start on the terrace at the top of pitch four.
Move 2-3 metres left to undercut crack at lefthand edge of ledge. Up the crack, following it rightwards on the steep headwall. To get off, scramble back then up and right to reach the walking track.
FA:Phillip Armstrong, Matthew Pearce & Peter Cody, 27 Jan 2010
Several sections of good, sustained climbing. Some rounded sandy rock detracts from the overall quality.
Start: 45 metres left of Matador where a crack splits a narrow buttress. The climb starts to the L of the buttress where a short section of bushes has to be negotiated to reach the crack [originally graded 13].
27m (14) Crack to small stance below overhang.
18m (16) Step right (useless old PR) and up steep groove to finish over a quite awkward bulge.
27m (16) Tricky crack through bulge to ledge. Step R and up wall on poor rock and protection (as originally led). Or move 2 to 3m L and pick your way up and R to ledge next to gully (as originally seconded, this option protects OK).
30m (14) Down and L into gully and up crack on opposite wall. A bush bash up and R from the top leads eventually to the track.
FA:Keith Lockwood, Tony Amiconi & Julie Tulloch (var), 1972
Unusual mix of caving and climbing and finishing on a pinnacle to boot!
Start: About 45 metres left of 'Toreador' at a chimney/groove. Faint initials SP on left side of crack. There is a nice looking thin seam taking the front of the narrow buttress 2 metres to the right which should help to locate this climb.
24m (10) The chimney to above the second constriction
22m (-) The chimney to an overhang at about 10 metres. Traverse right to the foot of the pinnacle proper.
13m (-) Bridge up behind the pinnacle to the top. (Descend by reversing this pitch and going down the hole)
Tackles some dramatic territory. Some parties have had trouble following the description but the route has recently been repeated and a logical, attractive first pitch description provided.
The topo has been updated to reflect this.
Start: About 60 metres left of 'Spelio Pinnacle' and about 10 metres right of a major roof-capped corner (Burning Daylight). Start from blackened white gum tree."I can't imagine any sensible modern climber wanting to scramble unroped up the steep dirty wall below the white gum tree [now stunted and blackened by the fires but still alive]" (Phillip Armstrong).
44m (13) Up easily to tree on large ledge [possible belay], up crack behind tree a few metres then move L into L leading flake line. Follow the flake to a good ledge under the roof in the big R facing corner. ( Original : Climb line and move left to a ledge below a roof.)
26m (13) Up and right around roof. Traverse left 3 metres below next roof to chimney and up chimney to ledge below another roof.
30m (-) Step right and go straight up into scrub step out right and up. This pitch is just a way off.
The great roof-capped corner down the left end of the cliff is a mixed bag. The main corner on the second pitch is great but the rest of the climb is not in the same class.
Start: Scramble up to below a small corner below and just right of the main corner.
13m (15) The little, left-facing corner and left to the main corne.
43m (20) The corner to the roof and traverse 10 metres left to an exposed stance.
40m (15) Continue traversing left under the roof (hand traverse at first then large ledge) and up the first possible break from the ledge, a left-slanting chimney. Belay off a chockstone about 10 metres up the chimney
43m (18) Move out onto the face on the right and traverse right for about 20 metres to the middle of the face. Up the wall to finish through a slot in the final roof.
Generally disparaged in previous guides but takes some interesting territory. Originally started as for 'Tourist Direct' but described here with a direct start.
Start: Start just left of the narrow chimney (Brainchild) that marks the left side of 'Tourist Buttress'.
30m (15) Bridge easily up to ledge. Hard start to the corner off the ledge and up to next big ledge and tree. Up to next big ledge on right with large dead tree (second belay of Tourist Direct).
28m (11) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt. (as for Tourist Direct) In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Traverse 4m left (wire or small cam unit at about 2m) then climb to a ledge (poor protection).
27m (-) Step left and climb the groove with distinct orange rock on its left. From the ledge above, go up and left to a smaller ledge just below a loose block.
33m (14) Up past block and up chimney. Step left then up and right. Finish up chimney.
Another great route from Tim Beaman. It is unlikely that anyone has repeated the route exactly as climbed, with the original third pitch culminating in a lunge for a hold while a good 6 metres above the last gear! Mercifully there is an alternative!
Start: Start left of 'Nyingtong' at short wall below buttress split by crack, 10 metres right of where the walking track meets the cliff.
25m (16) Wall to small ledge, short, flared chimney then hand crack to large ledge
40m (19) Overhang then steep layback above. Go up more easily to top of easy-angled section.
35m (19) Up and right to the right of two steep corners. Corner past overhang to ledge then unprotectable off-width corner which all parties since the first ascent have avoided on right at grade 16.
20m (18) Continue in line
FA:Tim Beaman, Bryan Kennedy (alt) Gary Wills & Dick Evans did the variant on the third pitch., 1977
An old wandering route that used to be considered something of a minor classic but has fallen into disuse. It was originally done in eight pitches but several of these can be combined and there are a couple of belay points that are probably best bypassed.
There is a lot of good climbing but the poorly protected section across the slabs at about 40 metres is a serious lead despite being quite easy.
Pinpointing the start is a bit difficult as existing descriptions rely on initials which are no longer evident.
Start: Start just right of where the track reaches the cliff at wide line just right of 'Flypaper Wall'.
24m (-) Easily to wide corner. Up corner until 5 metres below its top then traverse 3 metres right to ledge
17m (-) Right along the boulder-strewn ledge and up short corner-crack to terrace on the right.
33m (11) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt. In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Traverse 6m left (wire or small cam at about 2m). This is quite easy but some of the large footholds are very mossy. Up diagonally left on clean, unprotected rock to old piton runner. Step up (excellent small cam placement 1m above peg) and move another 6m left to a tiny stance but good anchors.
22m (-) Go up for 3 metres then veer left to a long ledge. Traverse 9 metres left to below a conifer.
It is possible to traverse right from this point along the break all the way to 'Tourist Buttress'. Unless you are doing the first ascent of 'Tourist Buttress', don't bother. Climbed by Herbert Schipper, Greg Lovejoy Easter 1963.
25m (-) The line just right of the belay then go up and left to an obvious long chimney. Climb up on the right and step left into the chimney and up to a good ledge on the right.
25m (-) Continue up the line which is steep at first. When about 10 metres below the top there is a choice of continuing straight up or going left and up. The left way is supposed to be easier but is a bit rounded and poorly protected at the very top.
Major line. The mossy poorly protected face at about 40 metres detracts from things.
Start: Start as for 'Tourist Direct'
41m (-) Climb the first two pitches of 'Tourist Direct'
33m (-) Corner to difficult exit right around the roof at the top. Up 5 metres to small stance on right and old carrot bolt (as for Tourist Direct). In the past people belayed here but it is much safer to continue. Climb the face on the left to the overhang. Up the corner, largely by its left wall to a big jammed block. Go left around the block and up through scrub above.
15m (-) Climb a small overhang and go up easily into the chimney.
18m (14) Chimney up 3 metres and out onto triangular ledge (ancient PR). Move back into the corner and go up into the smooth V chimney. Struggle up this and move left as soon as possible into an unlikely-looking shallow groove and go up to a ledge.
Better than the name suggests. The first pitch can be done in its own right and would clean up well. This route incorporates 'Showpiece Crack', an obvious feature high on the cliff which looks brilliant from high on the Giant's Staircase and is still good close up.
Start: Below a mossy looking gully/groove just up left from the hairpin bend where the track meets the cliff.
47m (16) Climb the groove, step left and up the delicate face to a tree on the left.
33m (15) Layback up 5 metres, step right around a nose and follow the corner tending slightly right to belay at the beginning of a short chimney or continue a few more metres to the foot of 'Showpiece Crack'.
40m (16) Go up the chimney then up the wide crack ('Showpiece Crack') for 18 metres and step right onto a ledge at its top. Continue easily
Devious route with the standard dropping dramatically after the first few metres.
Start: As for 'Mr Pye'.
42m (18) Climb the hard thin crack then continue up the corner above (loose blocks) to the yellow roofs. Step right to a big ledge.
27m (14) Straight up the grey wall then traverse down and right across a slab to the first corner. Climb this to the roof and traverse left on loos holdsuntil you can move up to a ledge below a corner.
30m (-) Bridge the corner to a ledge on the right at 25 metres. Right to a small stance below the next line.
30m (-) Up to the roof above and go right around it. Up and slightly left on friable jugs then up right into the main lin which is followed to the top.
FA:Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter & Julie Tulloch. Aids in the first few metres reputedly freed by Peter Traby., 1973
Significant as the first climb to tackle the overhangs on this wall but a bizarre approach from high in a tree and a wandering finish mean that it doesn't warrant repeating. The best part of the climb is now done as the second pitch of 'john Barleycorn'.
Start: Start at the tree by 'Martin Eden'.
50m (14) Climb the tree and branch until able to step onto the rock. Right to pedestal then up wall slightly left the veer right to detached flake. From right end of ledge up steep wall for 7 metres then left to ledge. Up to a small ledge.
25m (17) Up to roof, hand travers right to nose. Crack to ledge. This is same as pitch 2 of 'John Barleycorn'.
20m (15) A little right to climb overhang at weakness above BR. Now up a little and traverse a long way right to ledge and tree.
25m (-) Climb corner behind and exit right. From top of flake climb steep little wall then up more easily
Start: By the large tree at the start of 'Martin Eden'.
40m (16) Bridge up between tree and face and swing left on a jug and up initial wall. Continue up left-facing corner until 3 metres above wide ramp.
25m (17) Up to the roof and hand-traverse right to the nose. Up steep grey crack to a ledge on the left.
43m (18) Climb bulge on left past old bolts (Pall Bearer). Either continue directly in the line passing an overhang on the right or, at 8 metres, traverse right to the arete and climb an exposed crack which eventually rejoins the first line.
FA:Tim Beaman, Roland Pauligk. Independent start : Kieran Loughran & Gary Wills, 1982
Fine, sustained climbing with an unlikely crux that's a few grades harder than the rest of the climb and a fantastically exposed hand traverse high on the cliff.
Start: Start about 50 metres left of where the track meets the cliff just left of the big tree.
48m (18) Awkward start up indistinct crack and continue up to step left at 17 metres to grey crack. Up this to slabby area.
25m (-) Wander up to ledge 2 metres right of big corner (Bus Stop)
23m (21) Climb towards off-width roof (careful with loose-looking big block) and at 3 metres launch left and up into corner above. Up a couple of tricky moves then traverse right and go up to ledge. (If you're so minded, skip the crux by aiding the hideous roof crack instead)
9m (17) Hand traverse right to the prow.
21m (-) Easily up the wall just right of the arete.
Major choss starting up 'Bus Stop' and finishing up the prominent corner to the left.
Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.
42m (17) As for 'Bus Stop'.
38m (-) Left to wide line, up a few metres and right onto face. Diagonally right, step right, straight up to ledge, left to belay.
40m (17) Left into big corner. Up corner to rotten rock. Crack on right wall to overhang (? multiple peg runners, loose blocks). Dirty moves into clean corner. Up to top with a deviation onto right arete.
Takes some very unlikely territory for the grade. Also, the third pitch got left out of the 1977 Baxter Guide so heavens know what people made of it. It appears that the climb gains the major horizontal break about 25 metres below the top of the cliff on the third pitch and then traverses off left. Some quite experienced parties have had trouble following the route so it's been given a serious flag for now until it is further checked out.
Start: Up the giant staircase, about 37 metres left of 'Martin Eden'. Clear initials CC.
23m (12) Pull through the undercut start and straight up for 5 metres. Move right and up a short, scrubby crack to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up, veering right to a bushy ledge.
30m (13) Climb the line at the right end of the ledge for a few metres to another ledge. Step out left then head diagonally left up the steep wall with little protection to a ledge. Continue up to a small ledge in a corner (?thread belay). 3. 12m (-) Traverse left about 5 metres and climb up to the large horizontal crack. Belay near small conifer.
21m (-) Move left then scramble.
'Variant Finish' 9 :
14m Traverse left to below a corner. 5) 20m The corner. Ascent unknown. Exactly where this goes is unclear.
Finishes up a sustained groove in the head wall. Some dirt and loose blocks detract from the climb overall, but it could clean up quite well. Originally graded 14.
Start: as for Commando Climb.
17m (12) Follow Commando Climb to ledge on the right.
44m (16) Crack on right then up right side of wall [L of closed groove]. Continue up steep seam, when it runs out traverse 3 metres left [loose blocks] then follow right leaning groove to bushy cave below overhang. The route may originally have gone higher before traversing L, this would be very unprotected and quite hard.
25m (18) Go 4 metres left along scrubby ledge. Crack to ledge on right. RH line with increasing difficulty to top.
35m (18) Up for 3 metres then step around left and climb steep orange groove. After about 8 metres the groove dissipates and you can swing left onto the arete. Jugs up left side of arete lead to a technical corner which leads to a ledge.
25m (-) Move left 2 metres and swing up line via a layback edge and shonky looky (but OK) jug. Up line to major horizontal break.
25m (-) Around overhang at crack immediately right of belay. Straight up line to dramatic finish through summit overhang. This pitch may be the same as the finish of 'The White Cockade'.
FA:Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) & Tim Lockwood., 2001