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The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you


Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
23 Kaa Pitch 1 Mixed 17m, 1

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

FA: Steve Monks


Amazingly little is known about this. Doesn't get much traffic as it requires a bit of trad. Allegedly pretty thin and nasty.

Start: Start just R of Kaa.

FA: Possibly Steve Monks, 2000

28 * Naughty Tickle Town Sport 15m, 5

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

FA: Richard Heap, 1996

31 ** Academia Sport 15m, 5

The hanger on the first bolt is failing. The route is not safe to climb in its current condition.

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

30 * Cripple Nipple Sport 17m, 8

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

29 ** Tyranny Sport 12m, 4

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998

32 ** Who's a Naughty Boy? Sport 20m, 6

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

FA: Equipped (& Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998

32 ** Tyranny Into Lifestyling Sport 17m, 6

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

31 ** Lifestyling Sport 20m, 6

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

27 ** Not Too Bad Sport 18m, 6

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

FA: Simon Carter

Nathan Project 1 Sport 17m, 5

Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.

FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000


V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.

FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004

25 * Menstrual as Anything Sport 17m, 5

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

FA: Donna Bridge, 1994

26 Bottom Feeder Sport 18m

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts.

FA: Garry Phillips

26 Nights in Venice Sport 16m, 8

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009

25 Splutter Sport 17m, 7

Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006

24 ** Dial-A-Lama Sport 15m, 7

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

FA: Martin Lama, 1995

27 * Sticky Fingers Sport 15m, 5

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2000

FFA: Simon Young, 2013

26 * Weak Boy Sport 12m, 5

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

FA: garry phillips

26 Custard Chucker Sport 12m, 5

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

FA: Simon Young, 2013

29 ** Fabio's Route Sport 15m, 6

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

FA: nic sellars

28 ** Spurt Girl Sport 15m, 4

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998

26 ** This Spurting Life Sport 12m, 3

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

22 Spurting Mildly Sport 12m, 3

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1919

25 X Shai-Hulud Trad 45m 3

They must've been reading Dune to convince themselves to worm through this ocean of sand.

Start: Start at the top of 'Spurting Mildly'.

  1. 15m (24) Head up L to the honeycombroof and pull through it into cave.

  2. 15m (23) Pull out above cave into a line of chossy scoops, to another sandy cave.

  3. 10m (23) Out above the L end of the chossy cave to gain a finger crack corner which is reputedly quite good. But that might only be relative to all the choss you have to climb to get here.

FA: Dave Musgrove & Dave Jones, 1997

23 Lord of the Jerks Sport 9m, 3

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

25 * Wide World of Spurtz Sport 9m, 3

Allegedly has some good moves.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

23 Pussy Galore Sport 8m, 3

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

23 * I'd Rather Be Wanking Sport 8m, 3

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994