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The highest concentration of hard routes in 'Victoria' and certainly the most popular sport crag in the 'Grampians'. Packed into a relatively short area and overshadowed by 'Taipan Wall' this well developed wall is full of hard slopy sustained test pieces. For many Europeans this is their entire experience of climbing in the 'Grampians' - which is a bit of a shame really. Like all true sport crags this place is all about the moves not the aesthetics of the routes. If you have issues with chalk and bolts than steer a wide path around this piece of modern cragging. The bottom of the crag is a very eroded sandy ramp so bring a good rope matt or suffer the consequences. Stick-clips litter the ground, use them to either aid your way up the respective project or to protect your ankles from snapping before the first bolt. Be warned - on some of the routes the longest stick still won't reach between the bolts!

'Excellent', although greasy in summer, bouldering is spread along the left hand end of Spurt. Some of the problems are starts to routes, but many are their own unique adventures. Big positive pockets and long dynos are very popular. Bring a good matt and something to clean your shoes from the endless sand.

Please don't treat this area as just 'another sport crag'. Don't leave blue tarps at the base, remove all rubbish including finger tape and try and minimize chalk use. This crag has been trashed by sheer numbers and is a very clear reminder of the impact climbers can create. Please try and minimize human created destruction - our access to this crag depends on it.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff


Spurt Wall is separated from the rest of 'Taipan Wall' only by a state of mind. The wall begins to build just right of the 'ramp' boulder that leans against the start of Invisible Fist. As you walk past the end of the boulder traverse you encounter the first of these routes. The first starts underneath the ledge that Mr Joshua starts from.

The photo below is of Jake Bresnehan on 'Lifestyling' (32).

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011.

Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake.

FA: Steve Monks

Amazingly little is known about this. Doesn't get much traffic as it requires a bit of trad. Allegedly pretty thin and nasty.

Start: Start just R of Kaa.

FA: Possibly Steve Monks, 2000

The trad placement has now been retroed - silly poms can keep using the #2.5 Fr if they wish. Another new bolt has thankfully straightened the half height deviation to the right, eliminating the ridiculous tough cross-through clip of the 'Academia' bolt.

Start: Start from near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse, about 5m R of Kaa.

FA: Richard Heap, 1996

The hanger on the first bolt is failing. The route is not safe to climb in its current condition.

Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it was only going to be grade 26!

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Naughty Tickle Town'.

FA: Dave Jones, 1998

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 1998

The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by a roving Garth in his youthful prime. In a fit of vengeance Gordy promptly chipped off the vital holds, removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it anyway. This is the extension of 'Tyranny' past a further two FHs to rap chain.

FA: Equipped (& Un-Equipped) by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller & then re-established after Gordy's tantrum by Nathan Hoette., 1998

The hardest climbing on 'Spurt Wall'. Splits after 3rd bolt of 'Tyranny' and finishes up 'Lifestyling'.

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2000

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

FA: Simon Carter

Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.

FA: Equipped & worked by Nathan Hoette, 2000

V4 boulder problem start (stickclip) which adds an extra star to Menstrual and, since the demise of Menstrual's tree, is easily the best way to do Menstrual. Re-bolted 2013.

FA: Jake Bresnehan, 2004

Pretty snappy.

Start: It used to bridge up a pathetic tree ... which is now gone. A big stick clip is probably the best way to sample this original version of the route (but the newer direct start described above makes it a lot better so why not just do that). Apparently the bridging section can be climbed at very bouldery 27 or so. Yet another alternative is to boulder in from the right on pockets (grade 25 and easier if you are tall and don\'t mind broken ankles).

FA: Donna Bridge, 1994

Up Menstrual then head right past a few more bolts, should be more popular but run out at the crux.

FA: Garry Phillips

Start below twin pockets. Lunge to jug. 'Excellent' top crux. A climb worth a good look.

Equipped by Simon Ozolins in the mid 90s, but with a crappy start a bit further right (indicated by 15a in the topo).

Start: Start where the Menstrual tree used to be (3m R of the new Menstrual start).

FA: Kent Paterson & early, 2009

Starts 2m left of Dial-A-Lama. Stickclip first ringbolt. Bouldery start then a few good bulges, pockets and slopes before being confronted with a confounding sequence to reverse into the upper crux of Dial-A-Lama. Finish right as for that route past its last bolt to rap chain. Seven bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2006

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

FA: Martin Lama, 1995

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2000

FFA: Simon Young, 2013

Short + soft + bolts = popular. Climbs better than it looks. Rebolted 2013.

Start: Start 4m R of Dial-a-Lama.

FA: garry phillips

The direct version of Weaky Boy, less slopers and more pockets!

FA: Simon Young, 2013

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

FA: nic sellars

Very hard single crux move. 'Campus' slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellars tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.

FA: Nic Sellars (UK), 1998

Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1919

They must've been reading Dune to convince themselves to worm through this ocean of sand.

Start: Start at the top of 'Spurting Mildly'.

  1. 15m (24) Head up L to the honeycombroof and pull through it into cave.

  2. 15m (23) Pull out above cave into a line of chossy scoops, to another sandy cave.

  3. 10m (23) Out above the L end of the chossy cave to gain a finger crack corner which is reputedly quite good. But that might only be relative to all the choss you have to climb to get here.

FA: Dave Musgrove & Dave Jones, 1997

Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994

Allegedly has some good moves.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1994

Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.

FA: Simon Ozolins, 1994


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