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Description

This remote area high up on the right-hand end of 'Taipan Wall' is a remarkable piece of rock architecture forming a lovely little glade, that is well worth a visit just for its unique setting and atmosphere. The main part of the cliff is superb orange/yellow stone up to about 30 metres high and perhaps 10 metres overhung and in terms of architecture it is at least as impressive as 'Sandinista' Wall. Unfortunately the awe inspiring territory is all incredibly blank. Nevertheless, there are a couple of enjoyable climbs at either end.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

The best walk in is probably via the tourist track past 'Lower Taipan Wall' all the way around to the Plaza Strip (as described on The Plaza Strip page). From there, walk L along the terrace under the big roof of Hip Bath. About 80m L of Hip Bath there is a weakness in the line of roofs, solo up this (an undercut jughaul into a short corner, take care), and you're at the base of the very obvious and impressive 'Bouldering Buttress'. This approach keeps you on the well-graded tourist track except for the last 100m or so, and avoids the long stumble past 'Trackside', 'Taipan', Spurt and Afterglow areas.

If you do want to approach via 'Taipan', follow 'Taipan Wall' R past 'Spurt Wall' and past 'Afterglow Wall' for another 50m or so until you reach the same weakness in the line of rooves as described above.

The 'Bouldering Buttress' terrace can also be gained by climbing the first 8m of 'Evil Elf' at the Plaza Strip and then walking easily L from there. Once again, it's no fun to solo.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The easiest line towards the L end with shallow cracks, pinches, laybacks etc. There are a couple of possibilities but there is one that seems to best fit the bill.

FA: James Falla, 1987

A huge block sits on the terrace R of the overhanging wall. Short, thin crack next to the block up grey wall. Finish up discontinuous cracks.

FA: Jane Wilkinson & Steve Monks, 1992

takes the very R hand side of this wall right of the huge blocks.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bouldering Buttress.