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Description

A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
19 Foot-Spa Trad 15m

Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.

Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face.

FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2000

2
23 * Bass Rush Sport 15m, 4

Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon, 2000

3
24 Pentridge Smack Delivery Mixed 13m, 2

Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.

Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'.

FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2000

4
17 Evil Elf Trad 20m

Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.

FA: Andy Hein (US), Neil Monteith, 2000

5
19 * The Finisher Sport 15m, 5

Huge jugs. Now fully bolted!

FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith, 2000

6
23 ** Technorganica Sport 18m, 5

Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon, 2000

7
26 ** Exile on Main Street Sport 20m, 5

Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #2 Camalot on long sling above crux.

FFA: Josh Grose, 2012

8

Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2010

9
Open Project Sport Project

Amazing looking line. Line of bolts 2m right of FtWttT some very hard moves prob high 20's low 30's. Get on it!!

FA: Adam Demmert, 2009

10
24 ** Prowess Sport 24m, 7

A #4 Camalot is handy in the break!

FFA: Mark Gould, 2008

11
Josh's Roof Project Sport Project
12
20 * Sting Trad 15m

Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of 'Nipper'. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2003

13
16 * Hip-bath Trad 20m

A small climb with lots of interest. Traverse left from the start of Foot-Spa along the lip of the roof. Follow the diagonal crack up right then wriggle back left, finishing up headwall just right of the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2004

14
13 Nipper Trad 15m

The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Tim Lockwood, 2003