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Description

A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.

Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face.

FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2000

Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2000

Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.

Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'.

FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2000

Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.

FA: Andy Hein (US) & Neil Monteith, 2000

Huge jugs. Now fully bolted!

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 2000

Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.

FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon, 2000

Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #2 Camalot on long sling above crux.

FFA: Josh Grose, 2012

Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.

FFA: adam demmert, 2010

Amazing looking line. Line of bolts 2m right of FtWttT some very hard moves prob high 20's low 30's. Get on it!!

FA: Adam Demmert, 2009

A #4 Camalot is handy in the break!

FFA: Mark Gould, 2008

Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of 'Nipper'. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2003

A small climb with lots of interest. Traverse left from the start of Foot-Spa along the lip of the roof. Follow the diagonal crack up right then wriggle back left, finishing up headwall just right of the arete.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2004

The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Tim Lockwood, 2003

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Plaza Strip.