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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 142.387512, -36.899284
- Description:© (willmonks)
A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):
People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.
To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff , Gunn Buttress , Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area , Andersens , Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, Turtle Rocks, Sandinista Cliffs, Pensioners Wall Area, Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys , Hollow Mountain Cave, Legoland, Cut Lunch Walls , Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall , The Dungeon, Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder
Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder
*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders ,The Plaza Strip, The Snake Pit , Trackside Boulders. Citadel . Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall ,Epsilon Wall ,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land , Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 4 Cornered Crag, Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls
Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag , Sunstroke Area , Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, Second Tier, Third Tier , North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers , Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers
Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie , The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block, The Olive Cave, The Ravine
CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS
North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall , Mawson Slab, Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave , Sentinel Wall , The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant ,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area
- Approach:© (willmonks)
Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.
Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.
Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2000
Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.
FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon, 2000
Pentridge Smack Delivery
Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2000
Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.
Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.
FA: Andy Hein (US), Neil Monteith, 2000
Huge jugs. Now fully bolted!
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith, 2000
Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.
FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon, 2000
Exile on Main Street
Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #2 Camalot on long sling above crux.
FFA: Josh Grose, 2012
From the Womb to the Tomb
Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.
FFA: Adam Demmert, 2010
Amazing looking line. Line of bolts 2m right of FtWttT some very hard moves prob high 20's low 30's. Get on it!!
FA: Adam Demmert, 2009
A #4 Camalot is handy in the break!
FFA: Mark Gould, 2008
|11||Josh's Roof Project|
Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of 'Nipper'. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2003
A small climb with lots of interest. Traverse left from the start of Foot-Spa along the lip of the roof. Follow the diagonal crack up right then wriggle back left, finishing up headwall just right of the arete.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2004
The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Tim Lockwood, 2003
|24||Pentridge Smack Delivery||213m,|
|26||Exile on Main Street||520m,|
|27||From the Womb to the Tomb||515m,|
|?||Josh's Roof Project|