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JFMAMJJASONDseasonalitySport and Trad
Long/Lat: 142.387512, -36.899284
- Description:© (willmonks)
A remote area tucked away at the far Southern end of Mt Stapylton, but handily right near the summit tourist track. The routes are generally thin and a little steep, or gritstone like. A great place for a hot summers afternoon if you can handle the long approach walk. A good way to combine all day shade is to climb at Taipan/Spurt in the morning then walk right to Plaza Strip for the afternoon - it's only about 100m from 'Afterglow Wall' to the Plaza Strip (hint: hug the base of the cliffs R from 'Afterglow Wall', following the terrace 10-15m above the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering, and in no time you'll emerge from beneath the big roof of Hip Bath).
- Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
- Approach:© (willmonks)
Refer to map one level up! Walk up Flat Rock and then past 'Lower Taipan Wall' on tourist track, continue up slab then follow tourist track as it hooks 180' back left and heads towards Mt Stapylton summit. When the track turns right, bush bash in for 50m to cliff. Alternative access is to walk directly right from 'Spurt Wall', past 'Afterglow Wall', to the 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering cave. Another 50m right and above is this crag. It's only 20m from the tourist track. If you end up lost, follow the tourist track to the summit, and if you end up traversing left under a big chossy cave, you are actually walking above the crag. Walk back to find it. Shade after midday.
Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack.
Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2000
Steep start up wall with big moves leads to thin face. 4 ringbolts and double RB anchor.
FA: Neil Monteith, Nick McKinnon, 2000
Pentridge Smack Delivery
Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.
Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'.
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2000
Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge.
Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack.
FA: Andy Hein (US), Neil Monteith, 2000
Huge jugs. Now fully bolted!
FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith, 2000
Sustained techy thin climbing up orange wall on perfect rock. Five RB's. Rap off ring and chain.
FA: Neil Monteith, Andy Hein & Nick McKinnon, 2000
Exile on Main Street
Super techy grit slopes, mid height rest and cool finish. Optional #2 Camalot on long sling above crux.
FFA: Josh Grose, 2012
From the Womb to the Tomb
Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.
FFA: Adam Demmert, 2010
Amazing looking line. Line of bolts 2m right of FtWttT some very hard moves prob high 20's low 30's. Get on it!!
FA: Adam Demmert, 2009
A #4 Camalot is handy in the break!
FFA: Mark Gould, 2008
|11||Josh's Roof Project|
Nice laybacky flakes up bulging wall 3m right of 'Nipper'. Could be a soft touch for the grade, but it's a bit pumpy for a lingering leader.
FA: Tim Lockwood, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2003
A small climb with lots of interest. Traverse left from the start of Foot-Spa along the lip of the roof. Follow the diagonal crack up right then wriggle back left, finishing up headwall just right of the arete.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 2004
The left-hand, curving line on Bullant Wall. The finish is a bit of a surprise.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Tim Lockwood, 2003
|24||Pentridge Smack Delivery||213m,|
|26||Exile on Main Street||520m,|
|27||From the Womb to the Tomb||515m,|
|?||Josh's Roof Project|