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Table of contents

1. Trackside Boulders 69 routes in Field

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.384657, -36.896121

Description:© (Hatsu)

[Topo's are in 1st draft stage] As the name suggests, it is on the trackside when you are heading towards the summit of Mt. Stapylton, as well as trackside if you are heading 'Taipan' wall.

Various boulders requiring different skills including monos, to the highball problem.

Fairly good landing for most of this area.

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you
Approach:© (Hatsu)

Take the walking track from Mt Zero carpark and continue over Flat Rock, past 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight along the main track past the "Mt. Stapylton 1.7Km" sign. The boulders appear alongside the track soon afterwards.

PDF bouldering map of this area is on its way.

1.1. Simon Says Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Some Days You Bore V2Boulder
2 * Some Days You Score V4Boulder
3 Some Days You're a Whore V3Boulder
4 Check Your Traps V1Boulder

1.2. Wiggly Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Shattering Dreams V6Boulder
2 Shattered Arete

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

V8Boulder
3 * Wiggly Boy

Location: The Wiggly Boulder.

Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area.

V3Boulder
4 * Compaction

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

V6Boulder

1.3. Amazing Boulder 15 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Lessons in Socialism V5Boulder
2 *** Cardigan St Massacre V7Boulder
3 The V5 Sit / C V5Boulder
4 The V2 Sit / D V2Boulder
5 * Brama Sutra

Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem.

V8Boulder
6 *** Sick Nutter V6Boulder
7 The Animator V4Boulder
8 ** Media Construct V3Boulder
9 A

2m R of PCT.

V1Boulder
10 ** Paranoiac Critical Town V3Boulder
11 * Breakfast of Champions V6Boulder
12 Hard Right V3Boulder
13 * Premium Port V3Boulder
14 V0 Mantle V0Boulder
15 B V0Boulder

1.4. Website Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Masturgator V3Boulder
2 *** Surfing Without a Mouse V3Boulder
3 Waxing The Screen V0Boulder

1.5. Bolt Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** The Bolt of Old Regret V6Boulder
2 Highway to Avdell V2Boulder
3 Faulty Bolty, Mr B V5Boulder
4 The Bolt Torque Project V0Boulder

1.6. Colossus Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * The Colossus V3Boulder

1.7. Love Boulder 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Lust

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

V7Boulder
2 ** To Hate To Love

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

V8Boulder
3 ** To Love To Hate

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

V9Boulder
4 *** Ministry of Love V6Boulder
5 ** Ministry LHV V6Boulder
6 * Reacharound V2Boulder
7 ** Child of Love V2Boulder
8 Ignorance Rains V3Boulder
9 * Sexy as a Turd V2Boulder
10 * Sexy Direct V6Boulder
11 Love Lies Bleeding

Sit start on the low break 2m right of "Sexy Direct". Slap up to the sloper and out to a jug. Traverse up and left on good holds to finish up "Sexy as a Turd".

V3Boulder

1.8. Anti-Inflammatory Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Naprosyn V5Boulder
2 Voltaren V5Boulder

1.9. Inflammatory Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 One Flash and You're Ash V1Boulder
2 Something's Burning V0Boulder

1.10. Tiger Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Future Wolf And The Gay Parisian Milk Incident

Project no. 43

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

V4Boulder

1.11. Butchers Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Butchers Choice V10Boulder

1.12. Jungle Boulder 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:
Description:

Boulder just up from Butchers Choice off the walking track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bongo Fury

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

V8Boulder
2 Lisa Machete

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

V7Boulder

1.13. 100 Pint Wall 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * 2 Can Sam Club

FA: Gavin Portier, 2000

V6Boulder
2 ** 100 Pint Club

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V9Boulder

1.14. Upper Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Upper V3 V3Boulder
2 The Upper V2 V2Boulder
3 The Upper V4 V4Boulder
4 The Upper V5 V5Boulder
5 Un-named#2 V0Boulder
6 Un-named#1 V0Boulder

1.15. Angst Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Angst V5Boulder

1.16. Upper Cave Wall 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jumping Jack V2Boulder
2 Lo Jack V3Boulder

1.17. Paul's Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Far Left El Westwood V9Boulder
2 ** Left El Westwood

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V8Boulder
3 ** Right El Westwood V4Boulder
4 * Direct El Westwood V8Boulder

1.18. Orphan Boulders 0 routes in Boulder

1.19. The Wave Room 0 routes in Boulder

1.20. Project Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 On the Beach

FA: Dave Graham

V13Boulder

1.21. Peregrinator Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Peregrinator V3Boulder
2 ** Talons V5Boulder

1.22. Understanding Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
Approach:

About 100m towards Hollow Mountain from Project Boulder

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Understanding

FA: Nalle Hukkataival

V7Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
V0 B Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
V0 Mantle Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
Waxing The Screen Boulder 1.4. Website Boulder
The Bolt Torque Project Boulder 1.5. Bolt Boulder
Something's Burning Boulder 1.9. Inflammatory Boulder
Un-named#1 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
Un-named#2 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
V1 Check Your Traps Boulder 1.1. Simon Says Boulder
A Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
One Flash and You're Ash Boulder 1.9. Inflammatory Boulder
V2 * Some Days You Bore Boulder 1.1. Simon Says Boulder
The V2 Sit Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
Highway to Avdell Boulder 1.5. Bolt Boulder
** Child of Love Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
* Reacharound Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
* Sexy as a Turd Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
The Upper V2 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
Jumping Jack Boulder 1.16. Upper Cave Wall
V3 Some Days You're a Whore Boulder 1.1. Simon Says Boulder
* Wiggly Boy Boulder 1.2. Wiggly Boulder
Hard Right Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
** Media Construct Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
** Paranoiac Critical Town Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
* Premium Port Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
*** Surfing Without a Mouse Boulder 1.4. Website Boulder
* The Masturgator Boulder 1.4. Website Boulder
* The Colossus Boulder 1.6. Colossus Boulder
Ignorance Rains Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
Love Lies Bleeding Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
The Upper V3 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
Lo Jack Boulder 1.16. Upper Cave Wall
** Peregrinator Boulder 1.21. Peregrinator Boulder
V4 * Some Days You Score Boulder 1.1. Simon Says Boulder
The Animator Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
Future Wolf And The Gay Parisian Milk Incident Boulder 1.10. Tiger Boulder
The Upper V4 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
** Right El Westwood Boulder 1.17. Paul's Boulder
V5 ** Lessons in Socialism Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
The V5 Sit Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
Faulty Bolty, Mr B Boulder 1.5. Bolt Boulder
* Naprosyn Boulder 1.8. Anti-Inflammatory Boulder
Voltaren Boulder 1.8. Anti-Inflammatory Boulder
The Upper V5 Boulder 1.14. Upper Boulder
Angst Boulder 1.15. Angst Boulder
** Talons Boulder 1.21. Peregrinator Boulder
V6 * Compaction Boulder 1.2. Wiggly Boulder
* Shattering Dreams Boulder 1.2. Wiggly Boulder
* Breakfast of Champions Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
*** Sick Nutter Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
** The Bolt of Old Regret Boulder 1.5. Bolt Boulder
** Ministry LHV Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
*** Ministry of Love Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
* Sexy Direct Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
* 2 Can Sam Club Boulder 1.13. 100 Pint Wall
V7 *** Cardigan St Massacre Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
* Lust Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
Lisa Machete Boulder 1.12. Jungle Boulder
Understanding Boulder 1.22. Understanding Boulder
V8 Shattered Arete Boulder 1.2. Wiggly Boulder
* Brama Sutra Boulder 1.3. Amazing Boulder
** To Hate To Love Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
Bongo Fury Boulder 1.12. Jungle Boulder
* Direct El Westwood Boulder 1.17. Paul's Boulder
** Left El Westwood Boulder 1.17. Paul's Boulder
V9 ** To Love To Hate Boulder 1.7. Love Boulder
** 100 Pint Club Boulder 1.13. 100 Pint Wall
** Far Left El Westwood Boulder 1.17. Paul's Boulder
V10 *** Butchers Choice Boulder 1.11. Butchers Boulder
V13 On the Beach Boulder 1.20. Project Boulder