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Description

As for 'Between the Sheeps', but instead of branching left off the main track, continue along the main path as for Stapylton summit. Prior to the track ascending the gully (and opposite a vertical wall adjacent to the path) - take a right turn through the dense bush (track) to emerge at the 'Citadel'.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

FA: Dave Jones, 2000

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

Starts on the big chalked slopey hold under the hanging arete (left of Lost For Life). Up via a pocket in the roof, then undercling to a good jug. Has a reputation for being nails hard for the grade.

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2000

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

FFA: Dai Koyamada

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.

Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'.

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.

FA: cairo hazell, 2013

Activity

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