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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
14 Petite Fleur Trad 10m

Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help.

Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner.

FA: Michael Stone, Gary Kerkin, Ian Speedie, 1965


A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth., 1993


A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

20 * La Balance Trad 20m

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve, Norm Booth, 1993

19 * Baby Doll Trad 20m

Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up).

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Malcolm Matheson, 1991

19 Blank Frank Trad 20m

Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator.

Start: Start as for Walltower Castle.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Malcolm Matheson, 1991

22 * Digital Technique Sport 4

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

FFA: Steve and Amanda Holloway, 2013


Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 1993

22 * Bird In The Hand Sport 3

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, 2014


Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway, Bernard Wrangle, 2014



Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall).

FA: Kieran Loughran, Bert Levy, 1990