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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help.

Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner.

FA: Michael Stone, Gary Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965

A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry.

Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 1993

A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams.

Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve & Norm Booth, 1993

Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up).

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991

Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator.

Start: Start as for Walltower Castle.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991

Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off

FFA: Steve & Amanda Holloway, 24 Apr 2013

Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1993

Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Jan 2014

Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai!

FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway & Bernard Wrangle, Jan 2014


Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Bert Levy, 1990


Check out what is happening in Petite Fleur Face.