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Description

The narrow grey buttress left of the great mossy slabs.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Descent Notes

30 metre rappel off U-bolts from the ledge/terrace at the end of the big pitches on 'Grace Before Meals' and 'Sabre'. From the top of the cliff use the descent anchors for 'Threadneedle' or follow the cliff-top south to meet the walking track to the summit.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 * The Crank Trad 110m

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

  1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

  2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

  3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

  4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

  5. 30m (-) Easily up.

FA: Ian Guild, John McLean(var) Easter., 1965

4

Forget it. Lots of walking along ledges with a few bits of delicate climbing in between. Take a walking track if this is the best thing you can think of.

Start: Start as for 'The Crank'.

  1. 10m (10) As for 'The Crank'.

  2. 40m (15) Continue up 'The Crank' until able to traverse R above a bulge past the bolt of 'Sabre' to 'The Walltower Castle'. Move up and R to belay.

  3. 40m (15) Go up the water streaks for 6m, then go R and up before traversing R along a ledge to 2 bolts. Descend to the next break and then traverse R to a small stance.

  4. 43m (15) Traverse R to 'Sluice'. Traverse R above the overlap until able to drop down to the terrace below 'Navarre'. Abseil off before anyone sees you.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973

5
18 * Grace Before Meals Trad 90m

Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'.

Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).

  1. 15m (14) Climb 'Petite Fleur' and continue up to a large, bushy ledge. (Any other pitch on 'Petite Fleur' Wall will also get you to the ledge).

  2. 35m (14) Just keeps getting better. Go up to R-most L-leaning diagonal line. Up this diagonal until it fades, step L to next diagonal and follow it over bulge and on until it fades into a slabby arete leading up R. Make a few exciting moves up the arete then step R and up to long ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Traverse L below the overhang into the gully (reverses pitch 3 of The Crank) and belay below a corner 5m up the gully. Place gear to protect your second against a groundfall into the gully.

  4. 25m (14) Climb the worrying corner (hollow rock, spaced gear) to a ledge below the overhang. Dangle through the overhang and up the awesome steep wall on huge holds.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1990

6
18 R ** Sabre Trad 86m

A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'.

Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.

  1. 20m (18) As for Baby Doll: Step L off boulder and climb face to ramp above 2nd bolt. At top of ramp, clip bolt and move 4m L along break to climb final wall past bolt.

  2. 20m (12) Up to foot of R-most of the L-leading diagonals (i.e., the 2nd pitch of 'Grace' Before Meals). Up L along the diagonal for 5m, traverse R for 3m and climb the bulge. Up to a small ledge and old bolt.

  3. 21m (17) Climb the weakness above, pretty much straight up the centre of the wall, poor protection at times, to a long ledge.

  4. 25m (18) Move 3m L and climb the overhanging wall on chicken heads.Tend a little R on easy ground, then straight up steep wall (#4 cam) to slab and groove to top.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Darryl Carr, Ann Richardson (var), 1966

7
18 Vertical Limit Trad 65m

A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle

Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.

  1. 40m (18) Jump start then up slab to FH. Step right then easily up L to next hard bit. Move a few metres left then up to flake. Move right to edge of slab then up over roof to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Pull over roof at giant thread, then head up and slightly left to finish as for pitch 4 of 'Sabre'.

FA: P1 James McIntosh, Aaron Campbell, Robin Holmes. P2 James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, 25/9/99., 1999