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Description

The narrow grey buttress left of the great mossy slabs.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Descent notes

30 metre rappel off U-bolts from the ledge/terrace at the end of the big pitches on 'Grace Before Meals' and 'Sabre'. From the top of the cliff use the descent anchors for 'Threadneedle' or follow the cliff-top south to meet the walking track to the summit.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

  1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

  2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

  3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

  4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

  5. 30m (-) Easily up.

FA: Ian Guild & John McLean(var) Easter., 1965

Forget it. Lots of walking along ledges with a few bits of delicate climbing in between. Take a walking track if this is the best thing you can think of.

Start: Start as for 'The Crank'.

  1. 10m (10) As for 'The Crank'.

  2. 40m (15) Continue up 'The Crank' until able to traverse R above a bulge past the bolt of 'Sabre' to 'The Walltower Castle'. Move up and R to belay.

  3. 40m (15) Go up the water streaks for 6m, then go R and up before traversing R along a ledge to 2 bolts. Descend to the next break and then traverse R to a small stance.

  4. 43m (15) Traverse R to 'Sluice'. Traverse R above the overlap until able to drop down to the terrace below 'Navarre'. Abseil off before anyone sees you.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973

Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'.

Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).

  1. 15m (14) Climb 'Petite Fleur' and continue up to a large, bushy ledge. (Any other pitch on 'Petite Fleur' Wall will also get you to the ledge).

  2. 35m (14) Just keeps getting better. Go up to R-most L-leaning diagonal line. Up this diagonal until it fades, step L to next diagonal and follow it over bulge and on until it fades into a slabby arete leading up R. Make a few exciting moves up the arete then step R and up to long ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Traverse L below the overhang into the gully (reverses pitch 3 of The Crank) and belay below a corner 5m up the gully. Place gear to protect your second against a groundfall into the gully.

  4. 25m (14) Climb the worrying corner (hollow rock, spaced gear) to a ledge below the overhang. Dangle through the overhang and up the awesome steep wall on huge holds.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1990

A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'.

Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.

  1. 20m (18) As for Baby Doll: Step L off boulder and climb face to ramp above 2nd bolt. At top of ramp, clip bolt and move 4m L along break to climb final wall past bolt.

  2. 20m (12) Up to foot of R-most of the L-leading diagonals (i.e., the 2nd pitch of 'Grace' Before Meals). Up L along the diagonal for 5m, traverse R for 3m and climb the bulge. Up to a small ledge and old bolt.

  3. 21m (17) Climb the weakness above, pretty much straight up the centre of the wall, poor protection at times, to a long ledge.

  4. 25m (18) Move 3m L and climb the overhanging wall on chicken heads.Tend a little R on easy ground, then straight up steep wall (#4 cam) to slab and groove to top.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Darryl Carr & Ann Richardson (var), 1966

A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle

Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.

  1. 40m (18) Jump start then up slab to FH. Step right then easily up L to next hard bit. Move a few metres left then up to flake. Move right to edge of slab then up over roof to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Pull over roof at giant thread, then head up and slightly left to finish as for pitch 4 of 'Sabre'.

FA: P1 James McIntosh, Aaron Campbell, Robin Holmes. P2 James McIntosh, Glen Donohue & 25/9/99., 1999

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