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The narrow grey buttress left of the great mossy slabs.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Descent notes

30 metre rappel off U-bolts from the ledge/terrace at the end of the big pitches on 'Grace Before Meals' and 'Sabre'. From the top of the cliff use the descent anchors for 'Threadneedle' or follow the cliff-top south to meet the walking track to the summit.

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Grade Route
11 * The Crank Trad 110m, 5

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

  1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

  2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

  3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

  4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

  5. 30m (-) Easily up.

FA: Ian Guild & John McLean(var) Easter., 1965


Forget it. Lots of walking along ledges with a few bits of delicate climbing in between. Take a walking track if this is the best thing you can think of.

Start: Start as for 'The Crank'.

  1. 10m (10) As for 'The Crank'.

  2. 40m (15) Continue up 'The Crank' until able to traverse R above a bulge past the bolt of 'Sabre' to 'The Walltower Castle'. Move up and R to belay.

  3. 40m (15) Go up the water streaks for 6m, then go R and up before traversing R along a ledge to 2 bolts. Descend to the next break and then traverse R to a small stance.

  4. 43m (15) Traverse R to 'Sluice'. Traverse R above the overlap until able to drop down to the terrace below 'Navarre'. Abseil off before anyone sees you.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973

18 * Grace Before Meals Trad 90m, 4

Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'.

Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).

  1. 15m (14) Climb 'Petite Fleur' and continue up to a large, bushy ledge. (Any other pitch on 'Petite Fleur' Wall will also get you to the ledge).

  2. 35m (14) Just keeps getting better. Go up to R-most L-leaning diagonal line. Up this diagonal until it fades, step L to next diagonal and follow it over bulge and on until it fades into a slabby arete leading up R. Make a few exciting moves up the arete then step R and up to long ledge.

  3. 15m (12) Traverse L below the overhang into the gully (reverses pitch 3 of The Crank) and belay below a corner 5m up the gully. Place gear to protect your second against a groundfall into the gully.

  4. 25m (14) Climb the worrying corner (hollow rock, spaced gear) to a ledge below the overhang. Dangle through the overhang and up the awesome steep wall on huge holds.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1990

18 R ** Sabre Trad 86m, 4

A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'.

Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.

  1. 20m (18) As for Baby Doll: Step L off boulder and climb face to ramp above 2nd bolt. At top of ramp, clip bolt and move 4m L along break to climb final wall past bolt.

  2. 20m (12) Up to foot of R-most of the L-leading diagonals (i.e., the 2nd pitch of 'Grace' Before Meals). Up L along the diagonal for 5m, traverse R for 3m and climb the bulge. Up to a small ledge and old bolt.

  3. 21m (17) Climb the weakness above, pretty much straight up the centre of the wall, poor protection at times, to a long ledge.

  4. 25m (18) Move 3m L and climb the overhanging wall on chicken heads.Tend a little R on easy ground, then straight up steep wall (#4 cam) to slab and groove to top.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Darryl Carr & Ann Richardson (var), 1966

18 Vertical Limit Trad 65m, 2

A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle

Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.

  1. 40m (18) Jump start then up slab to FH. Step right then easily up L to next hard bit. Move a few metres left then up to flake. Move right to edge of slab then up over roof to ledge.

  2. 25m (18) Pull over roof at giant thread, then head up and slightly left to finish as for pitch 4 of 'Sabre'.

FA: P1 James McIntosh, Aaron Campbell, Robin Holmes. P2 James McIntosh, Glen Donohue & 25/9/99., 1999


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