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Description

A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile.

The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find 'The Rubicon' and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to 'Trackside' bouldering area. Instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the tourist track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. The climbs are described from left to right and are in the shade until early afternoon.

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 Slap And Tickle Trad 15m

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

FA: Nick White, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

2
25 * Natural Wastage Trad 30m

Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Steve Monks, Nick White, 1990

3
18 Baby Snakes Gulch Trad 40m
4
18 * The Rubicon Trad 40m

A stream in wet weather.

Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1972

5
22 * Non-Passerine Trad 40m

They shall not perch.

Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1990

6
27 ** Tyger, Tyger Trad 20m

Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity.

Start: Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

7
21 Their Finest Hour Trad 15m

Hardly.

Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd, Geoff Little, 1990

8
13 * Centaur Trad 43m

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).

Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.

  1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.

  2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

FA: David Mudie, Andrew Thomson, 1970

9
11 M4 Icarus Aid 61m

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

  1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

  2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

FA: Andrew Thomson, David Mudie, 1970

10
31 M2 * Pegasus Aid 55m

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

  1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

  2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4, 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970

11
31 M0 ** Gilgamesh Aid 67m

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

  1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

  2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

FA: David Mudie, Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974

FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008

12
27 * Inkido Roof Trad 12m

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993

13
20 Zeus Trad 40m

Start: Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof'.

  1. 25m (17) The crack.

  2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

FA: Melanie Taws, James McIntosh, 1987

14
7 Tartarus Trad 20m
15
22 * Apollo Mixed 40m, 7

As for 'Artemis', but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Vanessa Wills, 2008

16
21 * Artemis Mixed 27m, 4

Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top.

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Jill Gara, Ross Timms, 2008

17
16 Time Warp Trad 15m

An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap).

Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

18
15 Doriemus Trad 20m

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

19
20 M1 R Bad Habits Trad 25m

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

20
17 Might & Power Trad 20m

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

21

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

22
14 * Blunt Instruments Trad 43m

The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's).

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Rob Pease, 1997