Lower Taipan Wall Mostly trad climbing22 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to 'Trackside' bouldering area. Instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the tourist track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. The climbs are described from left to right and are in the shade until early afternoon.© (willmonks)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.
Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.
FA: Steve Monks & Nick White, 1990
A stream in wet weather.
Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Thomson, 1972
They shall not perch.
Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, 1990
Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity.
Start: Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'.
FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990
Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd & Geoff Little, 1990
An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).
Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.
21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.
22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.
FA: David Mudie & Andrew Thomson, 1970
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.
24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.
FA: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970
Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.
Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.
31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.
FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!
Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.
27m (-) Easy ground.
FA: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974
FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008