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Table of contents

1. Lower Taipan Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385584, -36.897629

Description:© (willmonks)

A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile.

The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find 'The Rubicon' and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace.

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to 'Trackside' bouldering area. Instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the tourist track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. The climbs are described from left to right and are in the shade until early afternoon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slap And Tickle

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

FA: Nick White, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

24 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Natural Wastage

Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Steve Monks, Nick White, 1990

25 Trad 30m
3 Baby Snakes Gulch 18 Trad 40m
4 * The Rubicon

A stream in wet weather.

Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1972

18 Trad 40m
5 * Non-Passerine

They shall not perch.

Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1990

22 Trad 40m
6 ** Tyger, Tyger

Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity.

Start: Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

27 Trad 20m
7 Their Finest Hour


Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd, Geoff Little, 1990

21 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 * Centaur

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).

Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.

  1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.

  2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

FA: David Mudie, Andrew Thomson, 1970

13 Trad 43m 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Icarus

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

  1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

  2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

FA: Andrew Thomson, David Mudie, 1970

11 M4 Aid 61m 2
10 * Pegasus

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

  1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

  2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4, 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970

31 M2 Aid 55m 2
11 ** Gilgamesh

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

  1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

  2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

FA: David Mudie, Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974

FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008

31 Trad 67m 2
12 * Inkido Roof

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993

27 Trad 12m
13 Zeus

Start: Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof'.

  1. 25m (17) The crack.

  2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

FA: Melanie Taws, James McIntosh, 1987

20 Trad 40m 2
14 Tartarus 7 Trad 20m
15 * Apollo

As for 'Artemis', but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Vanessa Wills, 2008

22 Mixed 40m, 7
16 * Artemis

Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top.

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Jill Gara, Ross Timms, 2008

21 Mixed 27m, 4
17 Time Warp

An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap).

Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

16 Trad 15m
18 Doriemus

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

15 Trad 20m
19 Bad Habits

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

20 M1 R Trad 25m
20 Might & Power

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

17 Trad 20m
21 Project (Nic Sutter)

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

Sport 15m
22 * Blunt Instruments

The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's).

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Rob Pease, 1997

14 Trad 43m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Tartarus Trad 20m
11 M4 Icarus Aid 61m 2
13 * Centaur Trad 43m 2
14 * Blunt Instruments Trad 43m
15 Doriemus Trad 20m
16 Time Warp Trad 15m
17 Might & Power Trad 20m
18 Baby Snakes Gulch Trad 40m
* The Rubicon Trad 40m
20 Zeus Trad 40m 2
20 M1 R Bad Habits Trad 25m
21 * Artemis Mixed 27m, 4
Their Finest Hour Trad 15m
22 * Apollo Mixed 40m, 7
* Non-Passerine Trad 40m
24 Slap And Tickle Trad 15m
25 * Natural Wastage Trad 30m
27 * Inkido Roof Trad 12m
** Tyger, Tyger Trad 20m
31 ** Gilgamesh Trad 67m 2
31 M2 * Pegasus Aid 55m 2
? Project (Nic Sutter) Sport 15m