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Table of contents

1. Lower Taipan Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385584, -36.897629

Description:© (willmonks)

A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile.

The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find 'The Rubicon' and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace.

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to 'Trackside' bouldering area. Instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the tourist track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. The climbs are described from left to right and are in the shade until early afternoon.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Slap And Tickle

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

FA: Nick White, Nicky Sunderland, 1991

24Trad 15m
2 * Natural Wastage

Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall.

Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Steve Monks, Nick White, 1990

25Trad 30m
3 Baby Snakes Gulch 18Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 * The Rubicon

A stream in wet weather.

Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Thomson, 1972

18Trad 40m
5 * Non-Passerine

They shall not perch.

Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1990

22Trad 40m
6 ** Tyger, Tyger

Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity.

Start: Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

27Trad 20m
7 Their Finest Hour

Hardly.

Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd, Geoff Little, 1990

21Trad 15m
8 * Centaur

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07).

Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.

  1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof.

  2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

FA: David Mudie, Andrew Thomson, 1970

13Trad 43m
9 Icarus

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

  1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

  2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

FA: Andrew Thomson, David Mudie, 1970

11 M4Aid 61m
10 * Pegasus

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

  1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

  2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

FA: Thomson, Mudie (M4, 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970

31 M2Aid 55m
11 ** Gilgamesh

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter!

Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.

  1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay.

  2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

FA: David Mudie, Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974

FFA: Ben Cossey, 2008

31 M0Aid 67m
12 * Inkido Roof

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1993

27Trad 12m
13 Zeus

Start: Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof'.

  1. 25m (17) The crack.

  2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

FA: Melanie Taws, James McIntosh, 1987

20Trad 40m
14 Tartarus 7Trad 20m
15 * Apollo

As for 'Artemis', but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!).

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Vanessa Wills, 2008

22Mixed 40m, 7
16 * Artemis

Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top.

Start: Start as for Zeus.

FA: Will Monks, Jill Gara, Ross Timms, 2008

21Mixed 27m, 4
17 Time Warp

An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap).

Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

16Trad 15m
18 Doriemus

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

15Trad 20m
19 Bad Habits

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it.

Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Matt Walsh, 1997

20 M1 RTrad 25m
20 Might & Power

Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help).

Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'.

FA: Matt Walsh, Campbell Mercer, 1997

17Trad 20m
21 Project (Nic Sutter)

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

Sport 15m
22 * Blunt Instruments

The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's).

Start: Start just L of the arete.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Rob Pease, 1997

14Trad 43m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Tartarus Trad 20m
11 M4 Icarus Aid 61m
13 * Centaur Trad 43m
14 * Blunt Instruments Trad 43m
15 Doriemus Trad 20m
16 Time Warp Trad 15m
17 Might & Power Trad 20m
18 Baby Snakes Gulch Trad 40m
* The Rubicon Trad 40m
20 Zeus Trad 40m
20 M1 Bad Habits Trad 25m
21 * Artemis Mixed 27m, 4
Their Finest Hour Trad 15m
22 * Apollo Mixed 40m, 7
* Non-Passerine Trad 40m
24 Slap And Tickle Trad 15m
25 * Natural Wastage Trad 30m
27 * Inkido Roof Trad 12m
** Tyger, Tyger Trad 20m
31 M0 ** Gilgamesh Aid 67m
31 M2 * Pegasus Aid 55m
? Project (Nic Sutter) Sport 15m