Topo #8459

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Slap And Tickle

24 (!!) Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

24 Trad 15m Unlink route

Topo #8456

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2 * Natural Wastage

Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall. Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'.

25 Trad 30m Unlink route
4 * The Rubicon

A stream in wet weather. Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace.

18 Trad 40m Unlink route
5 * Non-Passerine

They shall not perch. Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route
6 ** Tyger, Tyger

Burning bright. Has been seeing a resurgence in popularity. Start: Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'.

27 Trad 20m Unlink route
7 Their Finest Hour

Hardly. Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger.

21 Trad 15m Unlink route
8 * Centaur

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07). Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner. 1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof. 2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

13 Trad 43m 2 Unlink route
17 Time Warp

An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap). Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger.

16 Trad 15m Unlink route
19 Bad Habits

Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it. Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'.

20 M1 R Trad 25m Unlink route
22 * Blunt Instruments

The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's). Start: Start just L of the arete.

14 Trad 43m Unlink route

Topo #8457

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 * Centaur

An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07). Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner. 1. 21m (13) The crack just L of the corner to a ledge. Up the chimney to another ledge below a large roof. 2. 22m (13) Step across the gap and move around the roof and up the corner. The route originally topped out, but a chain has been added allowing a 30m abseil to a ledge 2m off the ground at the base of the climb. People using this abseil should wear helmets because of the fragile nature of the rock.

13 Trad 43m 2 Unlink route
9 Icarus

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade. Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang. 1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge. 2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

11 M4 Aid 61m 2 Unlink route
10 * Pegasus

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids. Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)). 1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor. 2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

31 M2 Aid 55m 2 Unlink route
11 ** Gilgamesh

Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'. 1. 35m (31) Hard moves take you R through the roof 10m R of 'Pegasus' to crux into bottomless corner. On up corner to belay. 2. 27m (-) Easy ground.

31 Trad 67m 2 Unlink route
12 * Inkido Roof

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

27 Trad 12m Unlink route
13 Zeus

Start: Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof'. 1. 25m (17) The crack. 2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

20 Trad 40m 2 Unlink route
15 * Apollo

As for 'Artemis', but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!). Start: Start as for Zeus.

22 Mixed 40m, 7 Unlink route
16 * Artemis

Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top. Start: Start as for Zeus.

21 Mixed 27m, 4 Unlink route
21 Project (Nic Sutter)

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

Sport 15m Unlink route

Topo #8458

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Route Grade Popularity Style
12 * Inkido Roof

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

27 Trad 12m Unlink route
13 Zeus

Start: Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof'. 1. 25m (17) The crack. 2. 15m (-) The chimney, then step L to the jugs. The quickest walk-down is the gully between Lower 'Taipan' and 'Reprisal Wall'. Find this by bashing 50m back to 'Afterglow Wall', then go 80m R until you're underneath 'Between the Sheeps' bouldering area. Turn R away from the rock and after 30m you're at the top of the gully.

20 Trad 40m 2 Unlink route
15 * Apollo

As for 'Artemis', but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!). Start: Start as for Zeus.

22 Mixed 40m, 7 Unlink route
16 * Artemis

Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top. Start: Start as for Zeus.

21 Mixed 27m, 4 Unlink route
21 Project (Nic Sutter)

About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases.

Sport 15m Unlink route

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