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Description

One small sport wall and a larger ordinary cliff right of 'Lower Taipan Wall'. There are two corner lines on the left-hand half of the cliff, where the existing climbs are, and a few steep orange lines on right-hand half. The setting is attractive but the climbs are no great shakes except for Midnight's Children wall. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

Follow the walking track past Lower 'Taipan' for about 200m until there is a reasonable sized crag on the left. About 50m before this crag is a small grey face in the trees sporting lots of stainless!

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
24 Black Swan Sport 10m, 4

Left most route. If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2008

2
24 * Acts of War Sport 10m, 4

Excellent thin face climbing up the orange streak left of Midnight's Children. Four ring bolts to anchor.

FA: Adam Demmert, Mark Gould, Nathan Ross, Marcus(visiting German), 2008

FFA: Adam Demmert, Mark Gould, Nathan Ross, Marcus(visiting German), 2008

3

Beautiful thin, overhanging, grey face. There should be 50 metres of it. The first move is a nice boulder problem.

Start: Start about 50m L of the main crag. Best accessed directly from the tourist track if you know what you're looking for.

FA: Ed Neve, Norm Booth, 1997

4
8 Wasted Dreams Trad 40m

The first line on the cliff.

Start: Start below and L of the line.

  1. 33m (8) Climb to a ledge, move R and past the bush on the R. Follow the line to below the overhang.

  2. 7m (8) Easily out L and up.

FA: Ceri Law, Bill Andrews, Allan Hope, 1990

5

Steep moves to gain the line which is followed until it ends. Continue up the walls to the first overhang which is breached from the R. Move R, and onto the block, then to the top.

Start: Start at the discontinuous line a few m R of 'Wasted Dreams'.

FA: Allan Hope, Ceri Law, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, 1990

6
13 Lost Dreams Trad 45m

Takes the R-leaning diagonal.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Past Glories', near some broken flakes.

  1. 30m (13) 'Steep' moves to gain the start of the diagonal which is followed past a cave and a flake to a belay ledge.

  2. 15m (13) Move a little L, chin through the roof and easily up R to top or move R from belay and finish up 'Past Glories'.

FA: Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Allan Hope, 1990

7
10 Past Glories Trad 40m

The second (R-most) of the prominent lines.

FA: Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law, Allan Hope, 1990