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Description

One small sport wall and a larger ordinary cliff right of 'Lower Taipan Wall'. There are two corner lines on the left-hand half of the cliff, where the existing climbs are, and a few steep orange lines on right-hand half. The setting is attractive but the climbs are no great shakes except for Midnight's Children wall. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Follow the walking track past Lower 'Taipan' for about 200m until there is a reasonable sized crag on the left. About 50m before this crag is a small grey face in the trees sporting lots of stainless!

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left most route. If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

FFA: adam demmert, 2008

Excellent thin face climbing up the orange streak left of Midnight's Children. Four ring bolts to anchor.

FA: Adam Demmert, Mark Gould, Nathan Ross & Marcus(visiting German), 2008

FFA: adam demmert, mark gould, Nathan Ross & Marcus(visiting German), 2008

Beautiful thin, overhanging, grey face. There should be 50 metres of it. The first move is a nice boulder problem.

Start: Start about 50m L of the main crag. Best accessed directly from the tourist track if you know what you're looking for.

FA: Ed Neve & Norm Booth, 1997

The first line on the cliff.

Start: Start below and L of the line.

  1. 33m (8) Climb to a ledge, move R and past the bush on the R. Follow the line to below the overhang.

  2. 7m (8) Easily out L and up.

FA: Ceri Law, Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1990

Steep moves to gain the line which is followed until it ends. Continue up the walls to the first overhang which is breached from the R. Move R, and onto the block, then to the top.

Start: Start at the discontinuous line a few m R of 'Wasted Dreams'.

FA: Allan Hope, Ceri Law, Peter Watling & Bill Andrews, 1990

Takes the R-leaning diagonal.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Past Glories', near some broken flakes.

  1. 30m (13) 'Steep' moves to gain the start of the diagonal which is followed past a cave and a flake to a belay ledge.

  2. 15m (13) Move a little L, chin through the roof and easily up R to top or move R from belay and finish up 'Past Glories'.

FA: Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, Ceri Law & Allan Hope, 1990

The second (R-most) of the prominent lines.

FA: Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Allan Hope, 1990

Activity

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