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Description

Although the access is mostly on the well-established National Parks walking track, the walk is too long for any climbs to be popular.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Walk to 'The Citadel' and then sidle around for a couple of minutes. I.e. follow the walking track almost until the summit of Mt. Stapylton. The track climbs a gully just before swinging left(south) along a rock shelf to the final scramble. Low down in this gully, veer right off the track and follow, as closely as possible, the cliff east and then north. The easiest route involves a bit of maze-work among blocks but the sword-grass gullies should be avoided like the plague. Scramble over a slabby terrace running below the east-facing cliff-line to the head of a sword-grass choked gully running down to the south-east. There is a nice crack here. It sounds hard but the climb is only five minutes from the track.

© (willmonks)

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Routes

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Grade Route

It's a great pity that this climb is so remote.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1988

Activity

Check out what is happening in Stapylton East.