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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Prominent R-leading flake-crack. Exit L on slabby ramp near top of crack.

Start: Start up R side of block.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1994

Looks chossy.

Start: The next line L of 'Brass Monkeys'. Start down L of low bush and climb up R to line.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter & Meg Taylor, 1994

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits. V4 from a sit-start.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

FA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Another dynamic problem.

Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006


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