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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
10 Brass Monkeys Trad 35m

Prominent R-leading flake-crack. Exit L on slabby ramp near top of crack.

Start: Start up R side of block.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Pawson, Meg Taylor, 1994

2
16 Lambasted Trad 25m

Looks chossy.

Start: The next line L of 'Brass Monkeys'. Start down L of low bush and climb up R to line.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Meg Taylor, 1994

3
V3 *** Volume 1000 Boulder 6m

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits. V4 from a sit-start.

4
V0 Un-named V0 Boulder
5
V12 Quitline Boulder

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

FA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011

6

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

7
V3 * John Deere Boulder

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

8
V4 Tonka Boulder
9
V3 Caterpillar Boulder

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

10
V4 * Air traverse Boulder
11

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

12

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

13

Another dynamic problem.

14
V3 * Karl Boulder

Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top.

15
V4 Helmut Boulder

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

16
V9 ** High Flyer Boulder

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006

17
V0 Low Traverse Boulder
18
V6 Thinklite Boulder