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Description

The best thin (exciting!) single pitch face climbing in the Ampitheatre, possibly the best of its style in the 'Grampians'. 'Excellent' edges, horizontals and pockets on gritty rock. This is the most developed cliff on the vast blob of rock below 'Lower Taipan Wall'. Due to its exclusion from the Tempest/Mentz Select Guide this area has been totally neglected - which is very unfortunate as it really is a fantastic crag. Some of the routes are almost sport-climbs and others are definitely not. It is shaded until early afternoon. All bolts are stainless and in good nick.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Walk up Flat Rock and follow the track past 'Epsilon Wall' to a track on the right about 100 metres past 'Crossfire'. This track comes to you courtesy of the Department of Name 'Changes'. Follow the track down into the valley, cross a duckboard-cum-bridge over a swamp and continue for about 150 metres. A tree forms a natural arch over the track and the cliff can be seen up to the left. Head up through light bush (an animal pad helps) to the cliff. In all, no more than 30 minutes from the car. People tend to arrive at a flake-buttress (Rosy The Riveter) that marks the left side of the main wall. All descents are by single-rope abseils rather than lower-offs as the anchors are usually above some sharp edges. 'Access' to the top of the crag is a total nightmare of grey explodo jugs so make sure you can make it up your chosen route! Climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Rosy the Riveter Trad 12m

Don't try to off-width it! The steep corner on the left side of the flake buttress marking left side of main wall. Three FHs and a optional medium cam. Rap-anchor.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, Norm Booth, Louise Shepherd, Tania Lieman & Keith Lockwood, 1994

2

Why? Balancy face 3m R of 'Rosy the Riveter' to steep, R-leading horizontal crack. Perhaps you traverse R here. Who knows? The description doesn't say.

FA: Peter Woolford, Matt Darby, Stephen Hamilton, 1995

3
21 R Scots Body Trad 12m

Contrived. Shallow corner groove on right side of flake-buttress. Take care placing RPs at start then up and slightly right.

FA: Peter Woolford, 1995

4

Nice style. If only Captain Bligh had had a #4 cam! Desperate crimpy start, juggy wall then a technical grit boulder problem finish just when you thinks it is all over.

Start: Start from a flake where the buttress abuts the main face. Step right off flake to clip first FH. Four FHs, #4 cam and maybe a wire or two to rap-anchor.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1994

5

Technical pocket pulling. Start down right and dog-leg past three FHs to join original at bolt below break.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1994

6
26 ** Abandon Ship Trad 25m

A direct route up the smooth orange wall. Several huge dynamic moves, and is very well protected despite appearances.

FA: Steve Monks, 1995

7
24 ** Call Of The Sea Trad 25m

Cast away! A superb sustained wall. Start at base of ramp just right of 'Abandon Ship'. Move R up easy ramp to carrot bolt. Delicately past carrot to break (small cams/wire) and up to FH. Continue strenuously leftwards past two more FHs and an elegant mono-doigt at the top. You'll need a small cam as well.

FA: Steve Monks, 1995

8
21 ** Talk of Mad Women Trad 25m

Beautiful, steep ripply wall. Start easily just right of smooth orange rock. Up right along ramp, ignoring high carrot, then up past FH, step left to runners and straight up to horizontal break. Blast boldly up bulge to FH and on to chain. Rap-off rather than lower-off as the chain runs over a rough edge. Trad gear is small/med cams and wires.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Norm Booth, 1994

9
23 * Roaring Forties Trad 25m

Hard crux. Bridge up using a convenient tree about 12m right of Talk Of Mad Women and onto the wall. Hand traverse right to avoid all of the big loose blocks sitting on the ledge and up to FH. Hard crux past FH then more easily straight up juggy wall past another FH to belay at double FHs above 'Spice Islands'. Walk off right to rap anchors above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1995

10
23 ** Spice Islands Trad 25m

Keeps your interest.Hard start and exciting, pumpy moves on the bulge. Start in centre of wall, about 10m right of 'Roaring Forties'. Pull off boulder onto wall, FH, and crank hard to reach break. Left a fraction at 2nd FH then back right and up to mailbox slot (vital large wire). Motor up and left on the headwall, hoping that the hidden 3rd FH will be staring you in the face when you peer over the top of it. Pull up and continue with a big runout to double bolt anchors. Walk right to chains above 'Lord Jim' to descend.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1994

11
21 ** Anchors Aweigh Trad 25m

Serious. Scarcely a natural runner worth spitting on in the first half. Start at tree 10m R of 'Spice Islands', 1m L of 'Lord Jim'. Use tree to gain several metres, clip the 2nd bolt of 'Lord Jim', drop down a bit and traverse 4m L. Weave up wall with a variety of dubious runner arrangements, to bolt R of yellow streak. Up headwall then follow jugs dramatically L for 3m on crest of headwall. Go up when it seems to be the best option.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Keiran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, Eric Jones & Norm Booth, 1994

12
23 * Lord Jim Trad 23m

Glorious juggy rock on the headwall after a desperate crimpy start. Screwgate for 1st FH, #1½ cam between 3rd and 4th bolt. 5 FHs. Start 11m right of Spice islands below left side of orange streaks. Hard bouldery start past bolt (pull on this and enjoy the rest at 21ish), teeter past second bolt then motor up wall. Don't touch fragile flake up right of 5th bolt.

FA: Keiran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1994

13
20 * Man the Lifeboats Trad 25m

"Nice climbing, despite its humble appearance", Noddy. The only humble thing on this climb will be you if you take it lightly. The first climb on the wall. Take a few slings for the headwall. Towards right end of wall is a long roof-line. Start left of the left end of roof in a grove of native pines about 3m right of 'Lord Jim'. Step off long, skinny boulder and follow your nose up the wall to an obvious slot with a tuft of reedy grass 2/3rds of the way up the wall. Straight up steeply to finish.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Louise Shepherd, 1994

14
20 ** Walking The Plank Trad 40m

It's the final step that counts. Start at extreme R end of wall, at easy L-facing corner. Up corner to roof and traverse L for miles until roof is only 1m wide and crossable. Up over roof and R-wards to finish.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Keith Lockwood, 1994

15
Open Project Sport 20m

Looks like another stellar line awaiting a free ascent. From start of 'Abandon Ship' go up past carrot, broken flake, 3 FHs.

FA: Equipped by Steve Monks, 1994