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Description

A very isolated bouldering venue existing of basically 4 caves containing a smattering of problems. For their grades, Lazy Monelli, The Beginning's of a Great Adventure and 'Sweet Sensation' are renowned to be the pick of the bunch here. Definetly worth a trip if you are visiting The 'Snakepit'.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Access from The 'Snakepit' via a very exposed and somewhat dangerous slab (grade 5?) or for a much safer option, come off the tourist track after 'Emu Rock' and skirt right across the plateau until just below (some 30m) the 'window'. You'll know what that is when you see it. Down a little 'staircase' to emerge in at the base of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave.

© (boardlord)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Left-trending line from a low sit-start into the finish of Elephant's Swing.

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Obvious (grim) mantle problem a couple of metres left of Lazy M's finish. A couple of other variations exist here as well.

Choss!

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