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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

A very isolated bouldering venue existing of basically 4 caves containing a smattering of problems. For their grades, Lazy Monelli, The Beginning's of a Great Adventure and 'Sweet Sensation' are renowned to be the pick of the bunch here. Definetly worth a trip if you are visiting The 'Snakepit'.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

Access from The 'Snakepit' via a very exposed and somewhat dangerous slab (grade 5?) or for a much safer option, come off the tourist track after 'Emu Rock' and skirt right across the plateau until just below (some 30m) the 'window'. You'll know what that is when you see it. Down a little 'staircase' to emerge in at the base of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave.

© (boardlord)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
V10 *** Lazy Monnelli Boulder

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

2

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

3
V8 * Sweet Sensation Boulder

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

4
V8 Click Boulder

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

5

Left-trending line from a low sit-start into the finish of Elephant's Swing.

6
V3 La Gina Boulder

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

7
V3 Elephant's Swing Boulder

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

8
V0 The Lazy Mantle Boulder

Obvious (grim) mantle problem a couple of metres left of Lazy M's finish. A couple of other variations exist here as well.

9
V3 Sandy Candy Boulder

Choss!