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Description:

Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.

  1. 28m (33) 3FHs (enormous dyno at 3rd, Rainbow Rocket -style), to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

  2. 20m (32/3) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from The Seventh Pillar to Serpentine, halfway up Taipan. Another all points off dyno plus amazing water scoop/arete climbing, ending at the 3rd pitch traverse break of The Seventh Pillar. Nalle thought pitch 1 was a bit harder than this pitch, but maybe not by much!

  3. 12m (28). Seventh Pillar Direct Finish is now incorporated into this route where it logically belongs.

Tags:

Route History:

  • Route Setter: Malcolm Matheson (and DS added by Nalle 2017), 1993

  • First Free Ascent: Dave Jones freed pitch 3 ~2000, Nalle Hukkatival p1 & p2 Oct 2017, 2017

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.896140,142.385454

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

33 Community registered grade
33 Will Monks

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

desperate crap

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