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Description:© (secretary)

Rumoured to have an impossibly long dyno and, according to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done 'Mirage' and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start: Start about 15m R of 'The Seventh Pillar', where there is a lonely FH below the major horizontal of 'Lawrence of Arabia'.

  1. 30m (-) One FH and hard-looking moves, to gain THE break about 6-8m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Continue up the desperate looking face past 3 FHs which trend R into a thin L-facing flake. Follow this to a chain below the main roof (30m rap).

  2. 20m (-) This is the left-most bolted line through the major roof which extends all the way from the Seventh Pillar to 'Serpentine', halfway up 'Taipan'. If the roof/dyno weren't impossible the water scoop/arete climbing above looks amazing. It appears to finish at the 3rd pitch traverse break of the Seventh Pillar.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Equipped Malcolm Matheson early 90s?, 2000

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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desperate crap

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