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The original version (Groovy) takes one of Taipan's best scoop lines and is ultra classic in it's own right. The new extension (Groove Train) is now the hardest route on the wall, and according to Ethan Pringle is one of the best three 5.14s in the world.

Start: Start 10m up L from the base of Invisible Fist. This scramble/traverse is 10m off the ground and trickier than it looks so consider belaying across.

  1. 25m (28) Groovy. Follow the disconcertingly holdless groove, deviating left around a blank bit at 15m via some crux cranks. Exciting finish well above bolt to rap anchor (30m to ground). Solid for the grade.

  2. 20m (33) The Groove Train. Climb it in 1 pitch from the ground, not as a separate 2nd pitch. The sheer face above the finish of the Groovy groove is sparsely bolted up the black streak to a lower off. Obviously, it's affected by seepage. Equipped by Zac Vertrees and Mike Law (with the top lower-off added by Jake Bresnehan), this was worked by a who's who of Australian hard-men for 7 years before Ben's success. 33 for Ben, 9a for Ethan, make up your own mind.

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Route History:

  • First Ascent: Richard Heap (Groovy, Jan '97), Ben Cossey (Groove Train), 16 Mar 2009

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

33 Principal
33 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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