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This is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests puts this route in the rarified atmosphere of "Taipan's Top 5". After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than 'Serpentine', so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there!

Start: Start at a hanging belay in 'Lawrence of Arabia', about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of 'Scud Buster'. It\'s best to do the LoA approach once, then fix a 12m rope back to the ground. This way you can belay from the ground and jug/batman the fixed rope to avoid the long approach.

  1. 47m (29) The gear (mostly FHs but some med. cams down low and a small wire up high) is a bit spaced but right where you need it. 'Steep' slab climbing (crux) up to the main roof. Bust out the roof, trend R a bit then up the sustained wall to the 3rd belay of 'The Seventh Pillar' (45m rap).

  2. 14m (28) Cute. Straight up the steep headwall above the belay.

  3. -m (-)

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Dave Jones, 1998

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

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Route Grade Citations

29 Principal
29 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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