Section navigation

Phototopo:

Description:© (willmonks)

Generally nice climbing with a spectacular move through the overhang near the top, but spoiled by the first 10m shared with 'Strela'. Could improve with traffic.

On the FA, the overhang at the top was avoided by traversing right and climbing easy ground to finish up a steep flake left of the finish of "Strela". The overhang was added by the team doing the variant start.

Start: Start as for "Strela", the first chimney-line R of the foot of the Amphitheatre 'Gully'.

  1. 25m (15) Up the dirty groove for 10m (large cams) and traverse L along sloping ledge to orange-tinged crack up buttress. Up crack to good ledge.

  2. 20m (9) Climb groove from L end of ledge to below roof.

  3. 25m (18) Swing through overhang (large nut, at least #10 wire, not cam) then wall and easy ledges to top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Bill Andrews, 1994

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
18 Principal
18 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

Learn about creating circuits.