- Height: 76m
- Pitches: 3
- Ascents: 2
- Description:© (willmonks)
Brittle when wet
Good, though the early part of the first pitch is a bit contrived. Poorly protected in spots. All pitches are about the same grade though pitch three is probably the most serious.
Abseil as for 'Simpleton' or walk-off.
Start: Start at a small groove 3m L of 'Molar Buttress'.
25m (16) Up the groove, a move R, then up the wall with so-so protection to a good ledge.
21m (16) Take a steep, juggy crack from the ledge then follow the R edge of the compact grey rock via a series of large chicken heads to a superbly fashioned ledge on the R. Probably the best pitch on the climb.
30m (16) More chicken heads for 4m then easier but not well-protected climbing leads up leftish via a slab, corner and wall.
First Ascent: Peter Martin & Steve Jones (alt), 1989
Located in Central Buttress approx:
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Route Grade Citations
|16||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|16 *||ACA Route Register|
|16||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
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