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Description:© (willmonks)

Good, though the early part of the first pitch is a bit contrived. Poorly protected in spots. All pitches are about the same grade though pitch three is probably the most serious.

Abseil as for 'Simpleton' or walk-off.

Start: Start at a small groove 3m L of 'Molar Buttress'.

  1. 25m (16) Up the groove, a move R, then up the wall with so-so protection to a good ledge.

  2. 21m (16) Take a steep, juggy crack from the ledge then follow the R edge of the compact grey rock via a series of large chicken heads to a superbly fashioned ledge on the R. Probably the best pitch on the climb.

  3. 30m (16) More chicken heads for 4m then easier but not well-protected climbing leads up leftish via a slab, corner and wall.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Peter Martin & Steve Jones (alt), 1989


Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

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Route Grade Citations

16 Community registered grade
16 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
16 * * ACA Route Register
16 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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