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Description:© (willmonks)

Something to get its teeth into you. The start and finish are enjoyable, but the middle pitches are weird, spooky and poorly protected. All pitches are graded 12 simply because there is no information about individual pitch grades. Take a double-length sling.

Start: Start 9m R of 'Strela' at the initials "MB" below a groove.

  1. 35m (12) Gain the groove and follow it to the first big ledge. Traverse 10m R along the ledge before belaying.

  2. 15m (12) Scramble up diagonally R. Step around the arete to gain the ramp that runs back L. Follow the ramp and then step out onto the front. Move L a bit and then up to belay on another big ledge.

  3. 25m (12) Move up a bit and then traverse L to the other side of an obvious horn of rock. Things get strange here and it's hard to work out where to go. Go L to an easy mantle onto a huge, vibrating knob. Move up and R and back R to a weakness in the overhangs. Scuttle up this break to the next big ledge and try to find some anchors.

  4. 25m (12) Quite pleasant climbing up intermittent cracks and walls.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly (alt) Easter, 1965


Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
11 The North Grampians Update
12 Principal
12 * Grampians Selected Climbs
12 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
12 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

lovely fun nice scary easy crazy

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