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Description:© (willmonks)

A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).

Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.

  1. 30m (18) Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from 'Technical Ecstasy' comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.

  2. 35m (18) Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.

  3. 20m (18) On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild, Michael Stone. FA Dave Mudie 1975, 14 May 1966

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
18 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
18 ** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
18 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
18 *** *** ACA Route Register
18 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crank crux tough hard beautiful fun cool nice brilliant great exciting enjoyable classic superb awesome face epic roof traverse slabby layback crack

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