Section navigation

Description:© (willmonks)

A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. To a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cas for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.

Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.

  1. 15m (22) Not as well protected as you'd like. Pull onto the wall 3m L of 'Technical Ecstasy' past FH and small cam, then to flake (marginal wire). Continue to small stance.

  2. 35m (23) (crux) Fantastic! Step L into thin line. Up wall and follow line up wavy slab to second wave, traverse L at bulge past bolt (carrot), reach past bulge and move back R to line. Up line, dodgy protection at first, to good horizontal break which is where you join 'Technical Ecstasy'. To belay you can either (a) hand-traverse L below bulge to Simpleton's bolt; (b) take the wild crack through the bulge and then move L to belay in the 'Simpleton' corner; or (c) belay on the line, on the slab above the bulge (as shown in topo).

  3. 20m (22) Back R to line and up easy slab to roof. Step R a metre and monkey out the juggy flake through the 5m roof.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

23 Community registered grade
22/23 The North Grampians Update
23 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
23 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
22/23 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
23 *** *** ACA Route Register
23 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 90%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

sustained great easy rest

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Missing (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.