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Description:© (willmonks)

A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. To a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, extra #2½ cam, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated.

Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.

  1. 15m (22) Not as well protected as you'd like. Pull onto the wall 3m L of 'Technical Ecstasy' past FH and small cam, then to flake (marginal RPs - the fixed wire is gone). Continue to small stance.

  2. 35m (23) (crux) Fantastic! Step L into thin line. Up wall and follow line up wavy slab to second wave, traverse L at bulge past bolt (carrot), reach past bulge and move back R to line. Up line, dodgy protection at first, to good horizontal break which is where you join 'Technical Ecstasy'. To belay you can either (a) hand-traverse L below bulge to Simpleton's bolt; (b) take the wild crack through the bulge and then move L to belay in the 'Simpleton' corner; or (c) belay on the line, on the slab above the bulge (as shown in topo).

  3. 20m (22) Back R to line and up easy slab to roof. Step R a metre and monkey out the juggy flake through the 5m roof.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22/23 The North Grampians Update
23 Principal
23 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
23 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
23 *** *** ACA Route Register
22/23 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
23 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

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